Crank But Won't Start - Going Crazy... - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Jan 2013
Vehicle: C240 2002 W203
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Crank But Won't Start - Going Crazy...

Crank But Won't Start - Going Crazy...

Apology guys, I had to start a new thread on this topic since others are a bit old.

My car C240; W203; 2002; Odometer reading: 205,000 miles. Next A Service, at least 5,000 miles.

Last week without warning the car stuttered on the freeway, started to stall. I cleared to the shoulder, the car failed completely. It cranked but refused to start. Warning light displayed alternator not charging. So I towed car home. Jump-started with powerful battery charger, car cranked but still refused to start. Here is a timeline of parts I replaced:

1. New alternator replacement - 2 and half years ago (professional installation)
2. Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor (Bosch) - exactly 1 yr ago - from Amazon
3. Replaced Serpentine belt - exactly 1 yr ago
4. Replaced Belt Tensioner - exactly 1 yr ago
5. Replaced Belt Idler Pulley - exactly 1 yr ago
6. Replaced all 12 spark plugs (Bosch) - 4 yrs ago (Average 7k miles/year since replacement)

After car failed on freeway last week, I did the following:

1. Checked alternator, pulleys, belt tensioner, battery, all ok - last week
2. Replaced serpentine belt again, anyway - last week
3. Cleaned MAF sensor with professional MAF sensor cleaner - last week
4. Installed new Fuel Pump - yesterday
5. Tested Schrader valve with Injection Pump Pressure Tester, passed at 55-60psi - tested yesterday.

I should mention here that car initially did not start even with new fuel pump, until I added more fuel to tank from 1/8 to quarter tank. Fuel pump tester also showed zero pressure reading before I added more fuel.

Car started today, I drove only three miles, car sputtered and died again in front of Walmart. Crank pretty good but no start. Towed car home again, second time in one week. Here's what I did today when I got home:

1. Tested Schrader valve with pump tester, zero pressure reading.
2. Poured small quantity of gas directly into MAF sensor opening, car started, ran for a few seconds, then cut out.
3. At ignition position 2, fuel pump initiates for a few seconds, then stops.

I am at my wits end. What is the problem? Car is too old to take to dealership and spend gazillion dollars. I did everything above by myself, except alternator replacement done by a certified Benz mechanic. I bought iCarsoft MBII OBD scanner and scanned for codes, but I'm still learning this scanner and can't decipher the numerous codes. There's no code specifically for fuel system, or at least I can't tell. How do I test or read fuel-related codes on this gizmo?.

Can anyone tell me what's going on with the car? Much appreciated, thanks!. So so sorry for the very long statement.
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Old 07-11-2019, 08:15 PM
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2. Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor (Bosch) - exactly 1 yr ago - from Amazon
These are classic symptoms of CPS failure. I would never buy name-brand critical parts from Amazon or eBay - there are a lot of fake parts for sale on those sites.
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rudeney View Post
These are classic symptoms of CPS failure. I would never buy name-brand critical parts from Amazon or eBay - there are a lot of fake parts for sale on those sites.
Thanks... Would you know of a credible source for Benz OEM parts?
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:18 PM
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fcpeuro.com are very good.
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Old 07-12-2019, 03:18 AM
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Easy to check CPS before you spend any $ . Have you gone through all the fuses in fuse box first ?

This is a retro ride .
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Old 07-12-2019, 04:43 AM
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The OP already said that he tested the fuel pressure and it was zero. Pouring gas in the MAF got it runninng and then died. Plus he just recently replaced the CPS with a Bosch unit (same thing FCP sells). In my mind he's already proven the CPS is in working condition.

Moving on to solving the real issue here. This model is know for electrical issues with the fuel pump. There are a couple of areas where the wires will burn. There are 2 fuel pump senders, one on each side of the fuel tank. Lift up the bottom of the back seat and check the condition of all the connectors. The problem will be very obvious when you find it. One of the connectors will be burnt. Also check the connector at the fuel pump. Let us know what you find.
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by v12tt View Post
The OP already said that he tested the fuel pressure and it was zero. Pouring gas in the MAF got it runninng and then died. Plus he just recently replaced the CPS with a Bosch unit (same thing FCP sells). In my mind he's already proven the CPS is in working condition.

Moving on to solving the real issue here. This model is know for electrical issues with the fuel pump. There are a couple of areas where the wires will burn. There are 2 fuel pump senders, one on each side of the fuel tank. Lift up the bottom of the back seat and check the condition of all the connectors. The problem will be very obvious when you find it. One of the connectors will be burnt. Also check the connector at the fuel pump. Let us know what you find.
It makes sense that since car can start with little gas poured in MAF, CPS is unlikely to be the cause. Zero fuel pressure seems to point at fuel circulation system as the problem. However, I've just checked both connectors on each side of tank, no burn signs are visible. The connector at fuel pump itself is also ok - it purrs at ignition position #2.

I've checked all fuses in the system - all ok. Only thing remaining to do with fuel line is filter replacement, which has never been done. I wonder if bad filter can fail gas supply to engine. In another forum, someone suggested that since I changed out fuel pump, there may be huge air pockets somewhere and I need to fill up tank to max. This is hard to do with car disabled.

Next, I'm replacing fuel filter this afternoon since it's long overdue anyway. I also have a spare Bosch CPS as a last resort. Will be back.
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Old 07-12-2019, 02:44 PM
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Have you tested to see if power is being applied to the fuel pump? Also be sure to check the ground wire too. I've seen those fry as well. Remember to be careful because you're working around gasoline and you don't want any sparks to happen
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Old 07-12-2019, 05:58 PM
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My belief is that if and when the CPS fails to send a signal when the engine is cranking ,the ECU will stop sending power to the fuel pump.

Check for code P0335. Bad Crank Position Sensor.

If the one you bought was a fake it could be faulty..

Last edited by Benzyle; 07-12-2019 at 09:01 PM.
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Old 07-12-2019, 07:13 PM
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Check fuel pressure on the rail when initially turning the key to position 2. If you have pressure then, but it drops to zero when cranking, then it's most likely the CPS. And just because a CPS is sold as "Bosch" does not make it so. I think many of the Bosch labeled parts on Amazon and eBay are fakes.
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