'02 C240 AC warm at idle - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 03:12 AM
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I will ask, beg, bribe...my neighbor (mechanic) for help on installing this. Do I need to be careful which vendor I choose for part (s)? Mercedes part is 3x the cost.
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/138729...iABEgIIUvD_BwE

Make sure it fits before ordering, Give autohausaz your vin number.. to be on the safe side..

PS.. Your neighbor will need a vacuum pump, manifold gauge set, several cans of 134a.. Also, I can hear all you guys screaming about dumping the existing 134a into the atmosphere.. but seeing how this is a "one off" fix, maybe we can give the lady a break on the environmental stuff..
PSS.. I almost forgot..NEW SEALS..if they don't come with the valve
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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 05:48 PM
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So wasn't R134a created because R12 was killing the ozone layer? Oh, wait, R134a is a "greenhouse gas", so now we can't use it either! I guess we'd be better off just sweating.

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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, revving the engine changes nothing in terms of the amount of air flowing over the condensor, so that rules it and the suction fan out as problems. It still could be the compressor, but also could the the expansion valve. So, given that the expansion valve is much less expensive, that's what I'd try first.
As I was teaching my 16 year old to drive today I was reminded that I should have given you another clue...just before the air turns warm I can detect a musty humid air coming through the vents.
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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bobby735 View Post
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/138729...iABEgIIUvD_BwE

Make sure it fits before ordering, Give autohausaz your vin number.. to be on the safe side..

PS.. Your neighbor will need a vacuum pump, manifold gauge set, several cans of 134a.. Also, I can hear all you guys screaming about dumping the existing 134a into the atmosphere.. but seeing how this is a "one off" fix, maybe we can give the lady a break on the environmental stuff..
PSS.. I almost forgot..NEW SEALS..if they don't come with the valve

Thank you Bobby. I like using Autohausaz. Good people there. My neighbor wants my C240 at his driveway at 8:30 am tomorrow. He is going to look at it and then give me a quote. If all goes well he wants to order parts and work on it Sunday. I will pass on all info from everyone here on Benzworld that have been so helpful. I am crossing my fingers that it is only the Expansion Valve.
post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you Bobby. I like using Autohausaz. Good people there. My neighbor wants my C240 at his driveway at 8:30 am tomorrow. He is going to look at it and then give me a quote. If all goes well he wants to order parts and work on it Sunday. I will pass on all info from everyone here on Benzworld that have been so helpful. I am crossing my fingers that it is only the Expansion Valve.
I just thought of something else...what about the drier cartridge? If we open the refrigerant circuit wouldn't that have to be changed? I am thinking this because of Rudeney's reply (consideration #4 on his very detailed post) if I knew how to quote it here I would but I am not that experienced on this forum yet.
post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 04:29 AM
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I just thought of something else...what about the drier cartridge? If we open the refrigerant circuit wouldn't that have to be changed? I am thinking this because of Rudeney's reply (consideration #4 on his very detailed post) if I knew how to quote it here I would but I am not that experienced on this forum yet.
Not sure about the 240, but on the 320 the drier is part of the condenser..
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 07:44 AM
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The musty odor is probably not the cause of the problem, but a symptom. The evaporator has condensation on it and that can mold a bit. When it's cooling, it masks the odor, but when it starts warming, you smell it more.

As for the dryer cartridge, normally, it's fine as long as the system has been sealed. If you have had a leak where it has totally lost all refrigerant pressure and let it run like that for days, then it can get moisture in it and cause it to fail. Generally, if it has not been leaking and you simply open the system for a brief time to repair a part, then the dryer is fine. It's not going to suck up a bunch of moisture in 30 minutes like that. However, you might consider changing that, too, while your mechanic is doing the job on the expansion valve since it's only $30 and takes just a few more minutes (though the tool used to open its housing is a bit odd - it needs a reverse hex socket).

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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 10:00 AM
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As for the dryer cartridge, normally, it's fine as long as the system has been sealed. If you have had a leak where it has totally lost all refrigerant pressure and let it run like that for days, then it can get moisture in it and cause it to fail. Generally, if it has not been leaking and you simply open the system for a brief time to repair a part, then the dryer is fine. It's not going to suck up a bunch of moisture in 30 minutes like that. However, you might consider changing that, too, while your mechanic is doing the job on the expansion valve since it's only $30 and takes just a few more minutes (though the tool used to open its housing is a bit odd - it needs a reverse hex socket).
See there, you can learn something new everyday... All this time I was thinking the drier was a sealed one piece unit.. I didn't realize, take notice that the top is a inverted hex head... When I did my AC overhaul, I just ditched the old condenser for the new one... Now Rodney,..please, please tell me the new condensers come with drier cartridge installed.. Otherwise, I've been running around without one for the past couple of years...
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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 07:49 PM
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I am fairly certain that a new condensor comes with the dryer installed.

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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Nope... I mean the high side pressure (psi) reading and the low side, at idle.. Then at a high rpm... Also, 58 degrees is not "cold".. high 30's, low 40's (maybe high 40's and low 50's if it's really hot ass outside) is what should be coming out of your vents.. ARE YOUR CONDENSER FANS COMING ON ? Also.. You need to check your engine fan clutch.. WITH THE ENGINE OFF!!!... reach in there and give the fan a spin.. It will free spin, but a good clutch will have a bit of drag on it.. If it feels like it's just totally free spinning, you need a new fan clutch..

During my lesson ( I might just be AC registered now) yesterday. The LOW was at 60 psi and the HIGH was at 126 with engine at idle. I don't recall what it was at revving.
I have decided to do the compressor also.
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