Code P2006 - should I fix or replace the intake? - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-05-2019, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Code P2006 - should I fix or replace the intake?

Hi,

Just got a '07 C230 with the M272 engine. 92k miles. No service history. Clean, but...

I did all the wrong things - didn't get a prepurchase check, didn't even bring my code reader. Stupid, stupid, stupid. In my own defense, I was left unsupervised.

So of course, when I had my local shop go over the car a week later, they found the infamous intake manifold problem Code P2006.

But, there are no other real surprises. Replaced the seals for the fuel tank sender as it looked like there was a very slight leak. Also replaced the air/oil separator and a couple of other seals. Needs lower control arms, but I'll take that as normal wear and tear. Underside of the car is clean and no dents or signs of abuse.

So now I need to decide. Buy a new manifold for $600 @ FCP Euro, or buy the kit (and gaskets) for about $175 to fix the manifold control linkage.

Of course, the shop is advising i replace the whole thing. It's the safe way to go, as everything is shiny and new.

And the thing I keep hearing is that the plastic inside the manifold may break and drop into the engine. But - has this really ever happened? Because I've never heard of it.

So should I get a new intake and break the bank? Or roll the dice and replace the actuator? Either way, the intake is coming off (there goes my weekend).

Your thoughts and intelligent questions are welcome.

Thanks
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-06-2019, 07:40 AM
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If this is just the actuator in the front of the manifold where one of its ball joints broken off, I'd replace that. I did this on the ML350. I bought a metal part on eBay for about $25, and the gasket was about $20. The other problem can be broken plastic arms on the vacuum operated actuators. You can buy repair kits for those, too.

Now, the issue is that these parts often fail because the inside of the manifold has buildup in it that makes the flaps drag when actuated. That could result in bits breaking off and ending up in the engine which may be a problem if they are large enough. Or, they may jut burn up and be a non-event. When I pulled my manifold, I was happy with the smoothness of operation of all the actuators. I think sometimes these just break due to heat from the engine hardening the plastic.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-06-2019, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Rudeney,

Thanks for the reply. That's my thinking as well. I'm going to move he flaps manually this weekend before I pull the thing. I also think if they move smoothly and don't drag, they should be good to go, and a new manifold is overkill. I saw some videos on Youtube where the manifold was taken apart and the flaps look like they are adequately robust.

Having a plastic part that's situated above engine head, as well as having it heat soak every time the car is parked is a poor choice of materials. Continuing to build vehicles with this weakness and then failing to provide a reasonable path to repair borders on criminal. I wonder when MBZ revised the design to eliminate this problem?

Again, thanks for the reply and confirmation.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-06-2019, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Apologies for the multiple typos. That's what I get for posting until I'm completely caffeinated.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 07:30 AM
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I have a few theories. One is that the OEM just used some poor quality control and manufactured some of these with weak plastics.

Another thought is that this is due to stress on the flaps from buildup inside the manifold. Since that buildup would come from the PCV system, maybe it's a problem with the oil centrifuge allowing too much "gunk" to pass through. It could also be that different operating environments create more or less buildup, such as those operated in warmer climates or driven more "vigorously" may allow the gunk to be more fluid and pass through.

My final thought on this is that I rarely (if ever?) hear about this on the M272 V8 engines. It uses the exact same manifold, just with two extra cylinders, so if anything the extra size of its flaps might put even more stress on the actuators. Of course the lack of problems on the V8s mentioned in the forums might just be that there are fewer of them on the road.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Again,

Your obvs. correlate w/mine. Am going to check flap movement this weekend to ensure they are not gooped up. One thing I saw was that if they are loose @ the bearing surfaces, then the manifold is toast. Hoping that's not the case, as I've already ordered what I believe is the best repair kit here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm in agreement with you that the plastic crank is not up to the task. It's fighting a leveraged return spring during much of it's duty cycle, and over time, it seems to stress break along the axis of work (in line with the lower edge of the crank).

Also, this car was female owned prior to my getting it, so it was likely not pushed. Then when the manifold broke, they traded it and got rid of the problem. I'll be at Willow Springs Raceway next month with my track car. Am thinking about bringing the MBZ along to do some laps with that, which will absolutely kill what's left of the tires on the car, but will also blow out a lot of crap.

Should have the parts here for teardown next weekend.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 07:09 PM
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Personally, I;d not bey ANYTHING for URO parts. They are cheap Chinese junk. Is your vacuum transducer or its plastic rod damaged? If not, then you don;t need to replace it. Here's what I bought:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Be...S!-1:rk:1:pf:0

I was very happy with the quality of the part. You do have to drill out the "balls" that are pressed into the ends of the metal levers, but that was easy.

And our ML was also female-owned - a little old lady from Alabama. It was a one-owner with high mileage (118K) but in absolutely excellent condition, other than broken center dash vents (common on the W164) and the manifold tumble flap code. Got it for a song.

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Last edited by rudeney; 02-07-2019 at 07:11 PM.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Appreciate the feedback. I'll check the part very carefully when it comes in. I went with them because a pretty big shop in Encinitas uses them. Am replacing the vacuum part because I thought I might as well as long as i'm in there.

Again, thanks for the heads up.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Well Rudney, you are right, the URO part is plastic! It was represented as being aluminum, so back it goes!

I'll look @ your suggestion.

Thanks for the heads up!
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 07:41 AM
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I did this repair a few months ago. Assuming it was the lever I ordered an aluminum part to replace the stock plastic one. When I got the manifold off I found everything was intact. The problem was actually the main actuator, the big one in the middle, had went bad. I went ahead and replaced the lever with an aluminum one and ordered a kit that had all 3 actuators. I am having other problems with the car but the tumble flap problem is fixed. All in, I think it cost me a little under $200 for all parts replaced plus gaskets.
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