Door handle infrared sensor replacement - Page 5 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #41 of 51 (permalink) Old 09-02-2014, 05:23 PM
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Nice Video! My only comment is that I would wrap some duct tape around the screw, I wouldn't trust that it won't fall inside the door, and then...arrgh!

Finally laid my hands on a replacement sensor for the drivers side off ebay.
Advertized as a door handle.
Cost me about $30 with shipping.
Now to see if it works at all or can be repaired.....
"Fix it permanently so you don't have deal with crap again..."
Love it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hand View Post
I made a video of how to fix the summer convenience feature on a 2004 mercedes c230. Hope it helps get yours working once and for all !

Repair Mercedes Summer Convenience Feature - YouTube

Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 09-02-2014 at 08:15 PM.
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post #42 of 51 (permalink) Old 09-02-2014, 08:06 PM
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Well it worked! Used replacement sensor, had to do the repair but it works now.

Got inspired and decided to try my hand at my GF's ML.
Managed to get the lock cylinder out but couldn't get the sensor out of the lock cylinder.
So, suns setting, put it back together and Viola! It now works too!
All that poking around trying to get the sensor out seemed to help, as
well as simply re-seating the connection.

This is a feature I truly love, as on a hot day in Cali, the inside of the car
can easily reach 150-200(??!!) degrees! And it sure is nice to open everything at once, and let the heat out,
before climbing in.
Not to mention closing the windows and locking the car at the same time.
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post #43 of 51 (permalink) Old 10-10-2014, 02:27 PM
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worked flawlessly!
Thanks!
hand likes this.
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post #44 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-07-2015, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpjcb66 View Post
Excuse my translation Grege,
I tested it on my desktop with an oscilloscope and a laboratory power supply.
The sensor operates.
I have not yet found the cause of the failure.
Your sensor works there now?
How do you remove IR sensor from the lock assembly. Do you have to saw the hook from the lock housing as shown on this video?

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post #45 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-07-2015, 06:28 PM
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post #46 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-07-2015, 06:56 PM
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My update:
This worked perfectly for me back in December 2013. Both sides still work perfectly today.

Also, in case anyone was wondering, in reference to my 3rd to last message, my antenna mast started working again after sitting in the hot sun that same day (and it still works today).

A special thank you to everyone involved, best forum ever.
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post #47 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-07-2015, 09:10 PM
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Here's how I fixed mine

Video of Window roll up

Last edited by Big"D"inTheMB; 04-07-2015 at 09:24 PM.
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post #48 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-08-2015, 01:42 AM
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Hello everyone
@ btv94

I have drilled to remove the two pins (red arrows).
I was able to remove the electronics module without breaking the support.
Then I replaced the pins with the same diameter copper wire.
Best Regards.

Compliments Beautiful video for the red MB.


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post #49 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-17-2015, 09:12 AM
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Don't know , just wondering about "J B Weld".
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post #50 of 51 (permalink) Old 06-18-2016, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grege View Post
Well guys, got it sorted!

First lets say this job is a lot more invasive than I'd been led to believe!

Torx 20 access to lock is a great idea to save taking off the door panel, but you need a dedicated Torx20 with a 50mm shaft at least,not a bit-driver tool as it won't fit in the door hole.

The lock bit slides out ok, then comes the fun of getting access to the PCB. You have to nip or twist off the metal lugs that hold the sensor in, I can see that the 500$ buy from dealer tag comes from having to replace the whole lock. To repair the sensor requires the tabs to be munched which is not that nice (but nicer than $500!) (A tidier way is probably to drill the two inserts holding the cap on the lock, but didnt do that in this case.) Will need some other way to secure it firmly on re-fitting.
Once done the whole black sensor bit slides back and out.
You can now see the PCB under clear silicone, need to cut around the edge to get it off the board entirely to work on it.
I only spotted the problem on mine when I took a macro photo as part of circuit tracing - see the cracked solder rings where the sensor component has a dry joint! Seems solid now its resoldered.

Now it is fixed, its quite able to work from a variety of angles and distances, not that fussy. If you have one that's fussy its probably faulty.

For other debuggers, the pins as wired (my added wires on the pic) are:
Green (blue) is ground
Brown (purple) is a 5V supply
White (black) is output, active low on IR signal, with pulses of about 0.2ms neg width in strings of 3 or so over around 4ms. Didnt have a storage scope so this is a bit rough.

The whole unit is embedded in the silicone, so seems like it shoulnt be subject to fail with vibration, suspect a really shoddy soldering job in the first instance or maybe an incomplete fill of goo around the actual sensor itself - time will tell I guess.

Interested to hear if anyone else finds similar problem / fix.
Greg
how you have remove the scellant?
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