2001 C240 - Guide for Fuel Filter Change D.I.Y. - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-06-2009, 09:46 AM
JLL
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Thank you to everyone on this thread... Just replaced mine with a WIX filter ($60 from O'Reilly Auto) and it only took a couple of hours; mainly because the hoses were frozen on to the original filter (Car has 51,500 Miles).

Funny thing though, the filter says Wix, then there's a MANN label on it and also "Made In Israel"

I thought Mann filters were made in Germany all this time...
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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-28-2010, 09:12 AM
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is there any picture for the DIY? would this work for 2001 C320? Thanks.
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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-08-2011, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djnevoc View Post
You can get a Fuel filter for your c240 at any Autozone / Advance Auto <-- (10% Military Discount).

This guide should work for any C240 between 99-2005.

Tools Needed:



1 Torx Socket
1/4" Socket
10mm Socket
Box that the filter comes in.
Drip Pan
Safety Glasses
Wire Cutter Plyers
Paper & Pen - I like to make diagrams, so when people call me I don't forget how it goes together.


Parts Needed:
4 - #4 Hose Clamps
1 - Fuel Filter

Notes Before starting:

If you have a lift you can use this project will be MUCH easier. Other wise use a jack. (Block your tires)

I used a lift, When you go to remove the skid cover You cant take it off because the cover is part of the lift point.

Location of the Fuel Filter:

Just in front of the Drivers side Rear axle.

Remove your gas cap. The fuel system is a pressurized system so by removing the cap you wont have alot of fuel running everywhere.

Lift the Vehicle.

Use your 10mm socket and remove the 4 Plastic Nuts holding the left skid cover in place.

I placed my cardbox box the filter came in between the cover and the underside of the car to hold the cover down.

Use your Torx wrench and remove the single screw.

Unclamp the two upper hoses that attach to the out plastic filter holder and then lift up and it comes free.

Take wire cutter plyers and cut the left side hose clamps off. (I twisted them free and bent them back off.)

Your hoses may twist off, but mine wouldn't, SO place a flat tip screw driver between the base of the hose and the filter and pry it up till it comes free.

Once the two on the left are removed, use the same technique on the right side.

Now reinstall the hoses in reverse order.

Now apply your 4 hose clamps

Tighten with the 1/4" socket.

Reinstall the plastic filter holder and Torx Screw & Clip hoses into plastic filter holder.

Wipe up all te spilled fuel from the cover.

Reinstall the 4 Plastic 10mm Nuts for skid cover.

Remove Lift/Jacks

Reinstall Gas Cap

Start the car. (NOTE: Now that there is air in the fuel line it may take a second or two longer to start the first time. My car normally is started within a second, it took nearly 3-4 seconds to start, and considerably noticable difference. Turn off the car and start again, car should start normall)

I hope this Guide Helps!!

NeV
Thanks for the information, i feel it will help the people who are looking out for the guide in this forum.
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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 11-03-2011, 03:12 PM
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thanks

thanks for all your help, I was able to work on my mercedes.
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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-06-2012, 08:55 AM
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Question: What is the recommended method of relieving fuel pressure? I've seen the following options mentioned in manuals and threads:

1) My Haynes manual instructs to remove the fuel pump fuse and briefly start the engine to burn the fuel on the engine side of the pump, until the engine dies from lack of fuel pressure.

2) Pushing in on Schraeder valve on engine will expell excess fuel and relieve fuel pressure

3) Briefly open gas cap (although this doesn't seem like it would do it because it's on the wrong side of the fuel pump ... does this really work?)

4) Let the gas bleed out of the fuel lines are you disconnect them, relieving pressure as the gas spills out (sounds messy and potentially dangerous)

5) squeeze-clamp the lines as you disconnect them to keep gas from spilling, and presumably to hold the pressure in.

I realize every option listed above may work -- I would prefer to use the most convenient and safest method. I would appreciate hearing opinions on this, especially if you know what the authorized repair centers do.

I also have two other questions related to the entire option:

A) Should I disconnect the (-) battery cable when working on this? The Haynes manual recommends it, but I haven't seen anyone else ever mention it.

B) Should I use squeeze clamps anyway when removing hoses from the filter, to minimize gas spillage? Or do these clamps wear on the hoses, making them more susceptible to cracking?

Thanks. John

Last edited by jkowtko; 04-06-2012 at 04:19 PM.
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post #26 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-10-2012, 12:07 PM
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At what mileage/year should you replace the fuel filter?
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post #27 of 46 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 06:10 AM
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[QUOTE=jkowtko;5195219]Question: What is the recommended method of relieving fuel pressure? I've seen the following options mentioned in manuals and threads:

1) My Haynes manual instructs to remove the fuel pump fuse and briefly start the engine to burn the fuel on the engine side of the pump, until the engine dies from lack of fuel pressure.

2) Pushing in on Schraeder valve on engine will expell excess fuel and relieve fuel pressure

3) Briefly open gas cap (although this doesn't seem like it would do it because it's on the wrong side of the fuel pump ... does this really work?)

4) Let the gas bleed out of the fuel lines are you disconnect them, relieving pressure as the gas spills out (sounds messy and potentially dangerous)

5) squeeze-clamp the lines as you disconnect them to keep gas from spilling, and presumably to hold the pressure in.

I realize every option listed above may work -- I would prefer to use the most convenient and safest method. I would appreciate hearing opinions on this, especially if you know what the authorized repair centers do.

I also have two other questions related to the entire option:

A) Should I disconnect the (-) battery cable when working on this? The Haynes manual recommends it, but I haven't seen anyone else ever mention it.

B) Should I use squeeze clamps anyway when removing hoses from the filter, to minimize gas spillage? Or do these clamps wear on the hoses, making them more susceptible to cracking?

Thanks. John[/QUOTE

ALWAYS KEEP in mind FUEL comes in 2 form LIQUID>GAS matter VOLATILE
and COMBUSTIBLE.and as always FISSION+FUSION=REACTION chemically...

1. JUST KEEP GAS CAP OFF/OPEN SO YOU DONT BATHE IN GAS
2. NO FIRE OR FLAME NEAR FUMES also FART
3. to be safe or feel safer HAVE FIRE EXTINGUISHER NEAR YOU OR ANOTHER PERSON AROUND WHEN YOU WORK WITH FUEL LINE...just in case

"I SMOKE A CIGARETTE WHILE DOING THIS...AND WEAR MICHEAL PHELPS SPEEDO GOGGLES FOR EYE SAFETY"
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post #28 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 08:15 PM
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Just did this tonight on my c320. My local shop wanted 162, pep boys wanted 200. As I was cleaning my wheels I looked under the car and saw the filter. Looked a little closer and noticed the stock hose clamps had already been replaced. SO I went to auto zone spent 39.99 and replaced it myself in 20 minutes. Forgot to open gas cap, lost about a beer can worth of fuel. used a little soap to slide hoses on easier car almost started on first turn fired right up on second. By the way there was no clamp on the smallest hose. So, took off two bolts on pan, 1 torx bolt and 3 hose clamps. Done. Why they charge 200 plus I have no idea
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post #29 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rokkman View Post
Why they charge 200 plus I have no idea
They charge it because most people who buy MBs have money and no technical know-how ... it's the dark side of capitalism. My local dealership quoted me $514.24 ... one of the quotes that sent me over the top and into the DIY world ...
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post #30 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-15-2013, 08:44 PM
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C240 Fuel filter replacement

Could anyone post when the fuel filter needs to be replaced?
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