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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Vehicle: 2000 C230 Kompressor
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Major issues

I have a 2000 c230 kompressor, I am the second owner and I am also the only one to do maintenance on this car. It has 80k miles on it. I put new coils and plugs in it because the old coils we're cracked and arcing to the valve cover. I put in the proper gap iridium plugs into it. I have also done more basic stuff like oil changes and a few fuel filters. All of the maintenance I have done is to try and fix this misfire problem it has. I also has a fuel trim bank 1 code. But nothing else on a diagnostic scan. It feels like I'm driving a riding mower, I still manage to get 26mpg on average. I fill up with supreme or mid grade consistently. I cannot afford to go to a dealership, my mechanics have no clue waht to begin to look for. One says component level failure, the other says electrical. I'm at a loss, this car isn't worth the money they want to fix it either, it's in horrible shape, NO care was ever given to this car. I have also cleaned the maf sensor and it helped a little the first time, but now it's getting worse and worse. I have no idea where to even start. If you need any more info on this please ask. I will do my best to answer your questions
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 04:07 PM
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Welcome ZachHays,

Simple things first.

Check CAREFULLY all your vacuum lines for leaks/ hairline cracks and those especially at the back near the firewall AND
READ (one example) and use the search feature to find more info.

Please update your user CP profile.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 05:50 PM
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A couple things come to mind, firstly, khomer is right, vacuum lines leaking can be a source of running issues. I recently checked all of mine with a vacuum guage, and discovered some leaks in areas I didnt think to look, for example under the left rear wheel well, after pulling the shield out, there are some lines for the evap system that run back there to and from the gas tank that were leaking. Also, on the left front under the hood, rearward of the headlight, there is a couple valves there that had fittings that were leaking.

I would also like to see what exactly the fuel trim code was. Knowing whether its trying to go rich or lean might help a little in telling you what to look for. You could have an intake track leak, bad injectors, bad o2 sensors, etc.

One cheap thing you can check right away is fuel pressure. Rent a fuel pressure guage from your local parts store, and make sure your fuel pressure is high enough. Low fuel pressure can definitely make one run bad.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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it was P0170, when i did look it up it says that its stupid rich and has pulled as much fuel as possible before setting off the code, the other thing is, does anyone have a vacuum diagram for my car? i cant find one online anywhere, i want to just replace all the lines anyways
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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i did test my fuel pressure and it was between 45 and 50 psi. 45 with the vacuum line connected and 50 with it off. that was the first thing i checked when i had the issue, i just forgot to add that in there. i also had the opportunity to hook it up to one of them fancy scan tools that gives a live readout of everything going on when the engine is running, and when i revved it up to the dead spot it wasn't adding any timing or anything, i have an old distributor truck that acts virtually the same way when the timing is retarded or it has no advance at all. but with distributor less ignition it can be anything, i have never pulled this motor apart to tamper with anything but my dad who is a mechanic thinks it is my camshaft adjuster solenoid, which is possible, but if the ecu is noticing some kind of issue it wont add any timing to protect the engine form going boom. This car is very confusing for me, i am great with old cars and trucks, but not with complex waste spark and fuel injection with extensive emissions controls and vacuum lines that run the entire length of the car. Now that im done with my tangent, how do i test for leaks on my lines? Do i hook up any old vacuum pump and feel around or spray starting fluid on all my vacuum connections and lines?
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZachHays View Post
i did test my fuel pressure and it was between 45 and 50 psi. 45 with the vacuum line connected and 50 with it off. that was the first thing i checked when i had the issue, i just forgot to add that in there. i also had the opportunity to hook it up to one of them fancy scan tools that gives a live readout of everything going on when the engine is running, and when i revved it up to the dead spot it wasn't adding any timing or anything, i have an old distributor truck that acts virtually the same way when the timing is retarded or it has no advance at all. but with distributor less ignition it can be anything, i have never pulled this motor apart to tamper with anything but my dad who is a mechanic thinks it is my camshaft adjuster solenoid, which is possible, but if the ecu is noticing some kind of issue it wont add any timing to protect the engine form going boom. This car is very confusing for me, i am great with old cars and trucks, but not with complex waste spark and fuel injection with extensive emissions controls and vacuum lines that run the entire length of the car. Now that im done with my tangent, how do i test for leaks on my lines? Do i hook up any old vacuum pump and feel around or spray starting fluid on all my vacuum connections and lines?
smoke test.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 06:56 AM
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Smoke test, also you can get a mityvac vacuum pump and start testing them. Somewhat time consuming, but not very hard to do. The smoke test is the quickest way to locate them though.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 07:18 AM
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On a side note, if it is a vacuum leak that is the problem, that would show up as a lean condition, because the car is trying to suck in unmetered air, so o2 sensors report back a lean condition, causing it to go full rich. If I understand you correct, you are saying it is reporting a rich condition and trying to go full lean.

Also, I wouldnt just go changing all the vacuum lines just because. It will only leave you disappointed when it doesn't fix the problem.

What you could have happening, is some leaking injectors dumping too much fuel, or even an exhaust restriction can cause it to run rich, or a faulty MAF. MAF can be tested easily if you have a scan tool that can spit out how many grams/second it is flowing vs RPM. Basically, your engine is 2.3 liters, therefore at 600 RPM your engine should flow 2.3 grams/second at the MAF. If you idle at say, 750, punch that into the equation (2.3X750)/600 = 2.87 g/s. If you are idling at a different number, substitute 750 with whatever you are idling at. Your MAF should flow within 5 % of this number, so between 2.7 and 2.9 would be considered good. Anything more or less can be the result of a dirty or faulty MAF. Hard part of checking that is finding someone with a scan tool that will show the live data.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 06:23 PM
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One other thing to consider: the vapor canister purge valve. It's located near the ABS pump (look to the left of it when looking from the front). It's easy to test if you have a vacuum gauge and a 9v battery. It should hold vacuum perfectly when closed, and applying the 9v should open it. My car threw a code for maxed out fuel trim about a year ago, I replaced that valve and it hasn't come back since. Your fuel pressure seems a little low to me, eventually you should replace it (30$ and all you need is circlip pliers), but I don't think that's your main issue.
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