94 C220 Engine Shakes/RPMs dip low - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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94 C220 Engine Shakes/RPMs dip low

Have a 94 C220. In nuetral it seems to idle ok, little to no vibration. Put it in gear, RPMs drop low then pick back up, and the steering wheel and inside of the car shakes violently.
If you drive the car, it has all its power, but when you come to a stop, the rpms dip really low to the point of almost stalling, or somtimes stalling, then jump up to normal. With the A/C on or turning the wheel the vibration gets really bad.
Thing is, the engines running fine, its not missing. you can put your hand on it running and it seems to be hitting all 4. If you bring the RPMs up its smooth as can be. I just put a new MAF in it since mercedes has a TSB on it for these exact symptoms. No check engine light, no codes, starts right up without hesitation.

not sure where to start....I read the Throttle bodys can go bad and cause similar problems. Herd the OVP Relay possibly causing such things. No air leaks that i can locate. Now i know these cars have the wire harness issue....are symptoms like these assosiated with the harness issue? I peeled back some wiring looms and the insulation on some wireing is falling apart....any help would be great!
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-22-2011, 12:22 PM
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I changed my maf with aftermarket same issue, then changed with bosch maf, changed my air temp sensor downstream from maf, and water temp sensor and it fixed the issues. Before i did so many things i read on here that were supposed to fix the problem. Fix your wiring asap there are people on the site who offer harness rebuilds if this is what is bad. i did egr valve on my car also before the maf and i did not help i changed my o2 sensors this helped my car run slightly better. Also the insulated coil to plug wire can't remember what its called should be changed as they go bad and start to arc to the head. Good luck sounds like you had the same issue i had. I'm here to help. also there are many other posts like this on the site.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-22-2011, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the reply. It is a cheaper aftermarket MAF. If the aftermarkets suck so bad how can they sell them :/ So you went from the same symptoms im describing to perfect from going from a NEW aftermarket maf to a OE Bosch maf? Could it be a combination of things, like maybe a bad throttle body cant take control of the idle quick enough, and bad motor mounts cauing the vibration? Unfortunatly i have little to no prior information, if its always shook so bad or if it started with the bad idle control or what. Id hate to keep throwing parts at somthing that could be all in the wiring. Especially when every damn parts 300$

Any ideas on the most common wire faults that would cause this. No check engine light by the way. I am thinking of tearing the MAF and Throttle body harnesses apart and seeing if i can repair them.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-26-2011, 11:39 AM
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Yes, I think the Aftermarket MAF's are much cheaper. I changed mine with two Ebay MAF's, still same issues. Also check air temp sensor and water temp sensor. It all started with my a MAF code coming up, I did around a thousand dollars worth of tune ups, my guess was the EBAY MAF's. I would suggest unplug the maf at start see if this helps(ONLY do this as a test not for long period of time). I know it can be expensive for Mercedes parts go to AUTOHAUZ USA they are much cheaper and good quality. I have no clue about wiring the harness, I wouldn't start that unless you need to 100%. Motor mounts can be inspected check them out. It could be combination of multiple things just telling you how i fixed my problem (which was the same as yours it sounds). Good Luck
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-22-2011, 08:20 PM
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hi everybody,

i have a similar if not the same problem. very rough idle that usually leads to stalling (and while the computer is trying to adjust the idle i can hear a strange "clunking or clicking sound" from the back underside of the car). even with minimal throttle the engine runs smooth and will not stall. however, my problem appears to be connected with the engine compartment being hot or not. usually the engine does not stall when it is cold, please note the word "usually". anyhow, after stalling the engine starts without any hickup, but may shut of again after 5 seconds or sometimes much longer. this problem started happening long time ago (over a year) much more pronounced during the summer months. initially i have gotten the usual advice: MAF, sparks, fuel delivery system and most recently the wiring. upon my purchase of two different MAF the problem remained the same. a new fuel filter, oil changes, throttle body cleaning, fuel pump check, did not resolve the issue. initially i have opened the MAF insulation and i found deteriorated wires that must have been shorting out (i did get one CEL code for this). i properly spliced, replaced wires and repaired that issue (with my original MAF) and the engine semed to return to normal idle, with miniscule idle fluctuations which i didnt like but was happy that my problem was as it turns out temporarily gone. the winter was good for this problem it seems, because it returned with full force this spring. upon additional inspections, i found a disintegrated rubber vacuum hose connecting from the pasenger side EGR valve to the vacuum changeover valve mounted on the front of the engine, and replaced it. Prior to this replacement i had a CEL code about incorrect air flow (dont remember exact wording). the replaced vacuum tubing (=12 inch long) seemed to pacify the problem once again. during all this time i have had noticed deteriorated wiring throughout the engine compartment. however it returned to haunt me again but without any CEL codes anymore, yet the engine idles rough and stalls continuosly. i got angry and pulled out the wiring harness and repaired it myself. i used military spec wires for temeratures over 200 degrees celsius. i must note that i did NOT find any wires shorting out (insides of the throttle actuator included) eventhough they were cracked and darkened all the way to the ecu plug. after replacing the engine harness the problem remains the same. my most recent idea was to check the EGR valve, and i did. the one on the passenger side works properly, yet the one one the driver side directly by the firewall seems to allow some exhause gas leaking into the intake manifold even when the valve should be closed. i am told that this can cause the problems i am experiencing. currently the valve is removed and its being cleaned and soaked in gasoline. tomorrow i will see if it leaks and mount it back to the engine.

after me writing all this does anyone alse have anything to add?? comment? i trully hope my experience helps other people and maybe someone can give me additional pointers regarding this rough idle / stalling problem. if the EGR does not resolve the issue i really dont know where else to look. :/

toorich
1994 C220, 108k miles
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-23-2011, 07:41 AM
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Like mine

Sounds like what I went through... I had this intermittent problem on both of my MB's. On the '96 (pre-facelift and less electornics) it turned out to be the wiring harness. As my mechanic explained it to me... there is a short circuit on the wiring harness and the computer turns off the power to the affected spark plug to prevent damage. So you have to keep turning the car off and on to get it to work.

After the wiring harness (both upper and lower) were re-done, (Cost me $428, about 5 hours labour), the problem went away. It's common knowledge that years 94 to 96 (or it could be only 95 and 96) wiring harnesses would get brittle and tear after a few years. Do your reseach on this. Lots of info on the net on this.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-28-2011, 10:27 AM
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just a quick update here:

the EGR valve is working fine, yet the problem remains.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prospeeder View Post
Have a 94 C220. In nuetral it seems to idle ok, little to no vibration. Put it in gear, RPMs drop low then pick back up, and the steering wheel and inside of the car shakes violently.
If you drive the car, it has all its power, but when you come to a stop, the rpms dip really low to the point of almost stalling, or somtimes stalling, then jump up to normal. With the A/C on or turning the wheel the vibration gets really bad.
Thing is, the engines running fine, its not missing. you can put your hand on it running and it seems to be hitting all 4. If you bring the RPMs up its smooth as can be. I just put a new MAF in it since mercedes has a TSB on it for these exact symptoms. No check engine light, no codes, starts right up without hesitation.

not sure where to start....I read the Throttle bodys can go bad and cause similar problems. Herd the OVP Relay possibly causing such things. No air leaks that i can locate. Now i know these cars have the wire harness issue....are symptoms like these assosiated with the harness issue? I peeled back some wiring looms and the insulation on some wireing is falling apart....any help would be great!
I am experiencing this very same issue on my 96 C220. Did you ever find the issue here?
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mccullek View Post
I am experiencing this very same issue on my 96 C220. Did you ever find the issue here?
mcculek, Welcome.

You DO realize this post is over 8 years old.

Try using the search button, top right corner, using the key words to in your search such as "w202 c220 engine shakes rpm dips" for other results.

Have you scanned for any saved codes?

Scan and post what you codes you have, if any.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 09:25 AM
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You DO realize that he probably used the search engine to bring up an 8 year old post, right? Doubt he went through every thread one by one looking for it.
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