Brake squeak driving me crazy - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-09-2010, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Brake squeak driving me crazy

I have a '99 C230K. I've had the car for about 8 months now, and the whole 8 months it's had a brake squeak.

The previous owner had the front rotors machined and installed some aftermarket brand of brake pads that I've never heard of. I also noticed that on the driver's front caliper, the rubber bushings for the caliper bolts were missing.

So, first I replace the rotors with OEM rotors. Squeak is still there. I then replace the front pads with OEM pads. Squeak is still there. I then install new front caliper bolt bushings. Squeak is still there.

The noise only occurs when I'm braking. I did notice that the boot on the caliper piston is torn. Would this cause the squeak? Does this mean I need to install AMG calipers?

2000 CLK 320
18" MRR GT1 wheels, D2 coilovers, tint, 5000k H7 HID
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-09-2010, 11:00 AM
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Wondering if you cleaned the inside of the slide bolt bores with a bottle brush and re-lubed? Dirt may be holding one side at an angle. If you pull them off again you can inspect what type of wear pattern there is. The calipers probably are o.k. for now but if they start to leak then its replacement time, the torn rubber will also allow dirt to get inbetween the bore area. I would try relube and cleaning first before diving into new calipers.
With the new pads it has been suggested to do some hard braking to seat the pads. Some people have had good luck with Akebono pads since they are champhored on the sides and they don't make a bunch of brake dust. Check the clearance of the dust shield to rotor and before you pull the wheel check for play for wheel bearings. I did mine not too long ago, they are much easier than the rears. B
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-09-2010, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bmeister View Post
Wondering if you cleaned the inside of the slide bolt bores with a bottle brush and re-lubed? Dirt may be holding one side at an angle. If you pull them off again you can inspect what type of wear pattern there is. The calipers probably are o.k. for now but if they start to leak then its replacement time, the torn rubber will also allow dirt to get inbetween the bore area. I would try relube and cleaning first before diving into new calipers.
With the new pads it has been suggested to do some hard braking to seat the pads. Some people have had good luck with Akebono pads since they are champhored on the sides and they don't make a bunch of brake dust. Check the clearance of the dust shield to rotor and before you pull the wheel check for play for wheel bearings. I did mine not too long ago, they are much easier than the rears. B
I only sprayed them with brake cleaner and then sprayed the caliper bolt bushings with silicone spray to ease the installation process. I did low, moderate, and heavy braking to seat the pads.

I do know for a fact that the wheel bearings need to be replaced.

2000 CLK 320
18" MRR GT1 wheels, D2 coilovers, tint, 5000k H7 HID
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-09-2010, 02:54 PM
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Akebonos come with stiff metallic lube for back of brake pad - might be your problem - any auto store should have it - don't use ordinary grease

Highly recommend the Akebonos BTW - absolutely minimal dust

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-09-2010, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Akebonos come with stiff metallic lube for back of brake pad - might be your problem - any auto store should have it - don't use ordinary grease

Highly recommend the Akebonos BTW - absolutely minimal dust

Oberoi
I used some BG lube that they use at my local dealer. When it's time to replace my pads again I'll look into the Akebono's.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-09-2010, 08:03 PM
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>>I used some BG lube<<

I am not sure what you mean about lube but did you use a high quality anti-squeal paste on the back of the pads at the contact points? Did you let it fully dry before you reinserted the pads? Also, did you rough up the pads after putting on the new rotors so that any wear/scoring marks were removed? Both of those steps are very important. The yellow MB paste is expensive but works very well. You only need a few small packets of the stuff to do both front brakes.
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