1993 190E 2.3L No Power at Kickdown - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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1993 190E 2.3L No Power at Kickdown

I'm not sure how to explain this exactly, but the battery in my daughter's 190E died a few weeks ago. So, after I replaced the battery I decided to drive it for a day. It ran fine on the way to work, but it started acting up on the way home. As long as I didn't try to kick it down it was fine, but if I tried to push it the engine would loose timing. The more I tried to push it the worse it got until I was literally idling along. Absolutely no power, but it idled fine. When I got home I checked the plugs and they were looking a little lean. So, I changed the fuel filter, but nothing changed. What's strange is if I unplug the ISV it idles up and the engine revs normally. However, changing the ISV out made no difference as it eventually went back to driving poorly. I changed the plug wires and checked the cap and rotor the other night, and after resetting the ISV I drove it for about 30 minutes. I stopped at the auto parts store, and when I came out it was the same as before. It runs great until you need it to go then it looses all power and it just keeps getting worse. Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 01:52 AM
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.Check all the vacuum pipes for cracks and splits in the rubber coupling that go on to each item for splits or damage . Fuses in fuse box give them a turn for now .But if white metal fuses these need changing out for ceramic and brass later on .Come back after this exercise .Sound a little like a bad earth ,like engine to body or even the battery clamp on the battery .

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 02:21 AM
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POT

Also could just be the Air Flow Potentiometer if this little part is bad, and worn like picture ,left one is worn right one is replacement.This will show up like no response as you push the gas peddle down . Now on your throttle cable you should find a small micro switch just press it and see if this clicks .
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 04:57 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, I checked all the fuses and I've already replaced most of the vacuum lines. However, when I checked the WOT switch, I found it already depressed/activated. So, I adjusted my throttle cable and tested the switch. It ohmed out at 1.7 closed. The throttle potentiometer has a spot that is rubbed through. It has most of the black on it still but is definitely rubbed through in one spot. I will replace it.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 08:37 PM
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Since the whole deal started with a dead battery, I assume you purchased an all in one USB charger and voltmeter dirt cheap and monitored your charging system while driving, etc.
Any chance you still have voltage issues? Worth checking into if you have not done so already....

BTW, a small worn spot on your AFM pot will not cause you any grief. Mine is original at 195K miles and has a small worn spot. No driving issues whatsoever.
I have purchased a BOSCH pot for future use but have never replaced mine as car drives like new (knock on wood)

Also the BOSCH pot is $220, a lot of money for an experiment. Do not go to china for this one, you will regret it....
Hopefully I am not preaching to the quire here.

- Cheers!
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 03:26 AM Thread Starter
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I did check for proper voltage when I installed the battery. However, I did not do a driving voltage check. I will do that. Also, I bought my daughter a Scion but she prefers this old 190E. I try not to spare any experience when purchasing parts.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: After doing a voltage check I found that the alternator was putting out 18.6 volts. I replaced it after it blew the circuit breaker on the tester at the auto parts store. The car is running better, but it still gets really "cloudy" when you push it.
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