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post #21 of 42 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 05:31 PM
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Vehicle: '84 Euro 500SE, '85 Euro 2.3-16, '51 Euro 170S, '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport, '15 G63 AMG
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Originally Posted by dolucasi View Post
Sorry to be way of subject now but does it feel like the extra wood is just put on there with a double sided quality outdoor tape?
Or is it glued on or something else?
Glued on. I also had to glue it back on when I swapped dashes.

I can't seem to keep the door trim from peeling off due to extreme heat when the car is parked outdoors. I need to come up with a method to secure those trim pieces around the door handles with bolts or something threaded on the backside. Everything else is holding just fine, but the doors and door panels heat up so easily in the direct sun that the contact cement just doesn't hold! I'm weary of a stronger adhesive should I ever need to take them off. Heat gun can do damage to the clear coat if one isn't careful.

Here's how it was when I got the car, old dash with cracks and all:



I took the opportunity to polish the wood and give it an even nicer sheen when I was transitioning to the new dash. I ended up needing a new glovebox door as well.

'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16
'84 Euro 500SE
'51 Euro 170S
'15 G63 AMG
'97 Jeep Wrangler Sport
'98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8
'96 Ford F350 7.3 PSD

~Josh
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post #22 of 42 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 11:06 PM
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Date registered: Dec 2012
Vehicle: 89 190E2.6- 5-speed Manual, 95 E320 Sportsline-sold, 2001 E320 4matic Wagon-sold
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Looks good. Yeah the pre-90 dashes cracked easily. So just like yourself I had to replace my dash with a post '89.
And my car was garaged most of it's life.

The wood looks good. If you you used gorilla glue (available at HD) for the doors it will not peel off but then it is very permanent.
Also because it expands as it dries, it may make a mess around the edges. This is what I use to repair the skin of the door cards, etc.
It is pretty permanent.

Have you tried double sided outdoor quality tape? The model signage (190E2.6 etc) on the trunk is using that sort of taping and it does fine even outdoors.
But again, it will be difficult to peel of without ruining the door.
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post #23 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Aug 2012
Vehicle: 1976 450SL and 1970 250C, four speed (both sold) 1990 190E restoration project.
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Dolucasi

Just wondering if you could post a picture of the storage unit you put in your car in place of the cassette holder? Also do you have the M-B part # for the storage unit?

Thanks
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post #24 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 07:15 AM
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Dolucasi

Just wondering if you could post a picture of the storage unit you put in your car in place of the cassette holder? Also do you have the M-B part # for the storage unit?

Thanks
MP part number is: 201-683-0091

It is also available on-line at various outfits. If you always feel like you are out of open storage spaces, it helps with that problem.

It can be seen on the left hand side of this picture.
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post #25 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Aug 2012
Vehicle: 1976 450SL and 1970 250C, four speed (both sold) 1990 190E restoration project.
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I have installed the four new speakers. (4 ohm) And I’m now ready to try to install the new (to me) radio I got.

There are a total of 9 wires coming out of the existing M-B radio as noted below:
(I tried to put this in chart form but the spreadsheet software I use is not recognized for dragging/dropping in this forum)

1. White female connector- 2 wires, white & white/black that go to a black wire and a red/black
2. Black female connector- 2 wires, black & black/white that go to a black wire and a green/black
3. 4 prong connector brown wire that goes to brown wire
4. 4 prong connector red with fuse holder that goes to 2 black/yellow/green wires
5. 4 prong connector gray wire that goes to a blue with white strip wire
6. 4 prong connector white wire that goes to a red wire
7. yellow wire that goes to a blue wire

From what I can see on the Electronics Manual (124/2) on the car side, the red/black (1)and green/ black (2) wires go to the fader, the brown wire (3) is ground, the black/yellow/green (4) is hot with key on, the blue with white strip (5) is console illumination, the red wire (6) is hot at all times, the blue wire (7) goes to the antenna.

So I’d appreciate it if someone more knowledgeable than myself could let me know if they agree with what I see as the purpose for each wire. And also advise of the purpose of the solid white wire (1) and the solid black wire (2)

Secondly the new radio I’m looking to install has a total of 8 wires for the speakers. Positive and negative for left front, right front, right rear and left rear.

I think I can figure out the other wires but how would I connect the 8 speaker wires from the new radio to the vehicle?

Thanks
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post #26 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 05:34 PM
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Because your new unit has a built in fader, I'd just bypass the stock one and run all new wiring from each speaker to new wiring harness.

I can't remember the details of wiring up the rest without it all in front of me, but I can go pull the radio easy enough and look.

'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16
'84 Euro 500SE
'51 Euro 170S
'15 G63 AMG
'97 Jeep Wrangler Sport
'98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8
'96 Ford F350 7.3 PSD

~Josh
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post #27 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 09:45 PM
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Here's the wiring for 1990. I agree about bypassing the fader, but it's a real shit show down there with common ground F/R.

http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Mer...GRAMS/3449.pdf
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post #28 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 09:20 AM
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Bypassing the fader really depends on how good you want your sound quality to be. If you don't really care and just want a working radio, then just connect the front 2 speaker channels from the aftermarket harness to the 2 speaker inputs.
Then set your aftermarket radio's fader to front fader only.

If you don't want to cut up the wiring, Crutchfield does carry an harness
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-eAneHY...FXQYfQodfeIGmQ

As mentioned, many of us have just bypassed the factory fader completely and ran new wires.
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post #29 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice. Terrific as always!! So I think I will run new wiring to the speakers.

Any tips on the easiest/ simplest way to run the wires?

Thanks again.
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post #30 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 05:33 PM
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Date registered: Aug 2010
Vehicle: '84 Euro 500SE, '85 Euro 2.3-16, '51 Euro 170S, '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport, '15 G63 AMG
Location: San Antonio, Texas/Gulf Breeze, Florida/Neustadt a.d. Aisch, Deutschland
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Originally Posted by Glen54 View Post
Thanks for the advice. Terrific as always!! So I think I will run new wiring to the speakers.

Any tips on the easiest/ simplest way to run the wires?

Thanks again.
Pull the rear seat so you can get under the parcel shelf, and then run the wiring along either side of the car, or run it down the middle along the trans tunnel. I did the latter, and it simply involved feeling around for the wires. I believe later cars have a one-piece carpet, so you may not have as much ease going down the center; my carpet is multiple pieces, and each side comes out exposing the floor underneath. Nothing is glued down and seats don't have to come out to move/remove the carpet.

'85 Euro 190E 2.3-16
'84 Euro 500SE
'51 Euro 170S
'15 G63 AMG
'97 Jeep Wrangler Sport
'98 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L Magnum V8
'96 Ford F350 7.3 PSD

~Josh
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