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DIY W201 Transmission Modulator Removal, Replace, Trobleshooting & Common Problems

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#1 · (Edited)
DIY W201 Transmission Modulator Removal, Replace, Trobleshooting & Common Problems

Check out the links at the bottom of the DIY they have loads of information and troubleshooting guides for the 722.3 and 722.4 transmissions

I should not be credited for all the information in this post it is just compiled from hours of searching and compiling information from many sources and putting it all together in one place to help assist those with this problem.

Recently I have seen many questions pertaining to the Modulator and shifting problems. I put together this DIY to help assist with the common problems and effects of a bad modulator valve or vacuum leak and how to change and adjust the modulator on the 190E.

Diesel Owners this is a good link referencing the vacuum system and transmission on the 190D. This references how to adujust the system to get the best out of the diesel vacuum system and transmission modulator. Mercedes-Benz Transmission, Steve Brotherton, ImportCar, February 2002

Below are common questions and this DIY will cover them.

Common Questions

My Transmission slips/flares on 2nd to 3rd upshift Most likely the K1 piston spring problem that is common in these trannys read here k1-spring-kit-install.html

My Trans Shifts to hard? Most likely a vacuum leak or modulator adjustment

White/grey smoke coming from exhaust after adding trans fluid?The only way tranny fluid can get from the tranny to the motor is threw the modulator vale vacumm line.

My Trans feels like it slips for a second and then catches after stopping at a stop sign? Or my transmission is slow to engage?Most commonly a low transmission fluid level. Caused by a leak in the tranny or bad modulator diaphram allowing fluid to get sucked to motor.

My trans has soft or slow shifts? Soft Shift can becaused by the modulator being turned to low or a broken or worn modulator pin.

Before you begin with replacement of a Modulator Valve you should always check for vacuum leaks. Vacuum leaks are the most common reason for modulator problems. Vacuum leaks are common on older vehicles due to age and cracking. Vacuum leaks can cause various problems such as tansmission shifting hard and power locks not working correctly on the 190E or a bad Vacuum pump or leaks on the 190D can make the modulator function incorrectly.

The valve going bad can cause different problems. One being hard shifts. The other common problem is the diaphram rupturing in the modulator, causing it to suck transmission fluid from the transmission in to the motor this can cause white/grey smoke from the exhaust and transmission fluid loss. If fluid loss has happened then you may get a slow reaction time when the vehicle is moved to drive or reverse from the park position or you may have it feel like it slips and then catches when you come to a stop sign and take off.

Knowing Your Vehicle Transmission Number and Where to Find it

To get parts for your Mercedes 190 series vehicle you will probably need your Transmission Numer. It can be found on the side of the transmission above the pan see picture (courtesy of Member Samoila Stefan)



or you can decode your VIN here to get your transmission number.Mercedes-Benz Club Russia | Mercedes-Benz / VIN This is only good if you still have the original transmission.

Most commonly the first 10 digits of the number are the part number, the next 6 are the transmission number, and the last 6 are the serial number
(123 270 77 01 722 400 02 218853) Sometimes you may need this serial number because of changes made to that model of tranny.

Different Modulators For Different Models


Green 722.400,722.408 -722.403 722.410 Red 722.409,722.413,722.414

Recomended Transmission Pressure Per Transmission Model
MODEL________MODULATOR COLOR______PRESSURE
722.400 .....................Green..................46 psi (3.2bar)
722.403 .....................Green..................44 psi (3.0bar)
722.408 .....................Green..................57 psi (3.9bar)
722.409 .....................Red.....................48 psi (3.3bar)
722.410......................Green..................51 psi (3.5bar)
722.413 .....................Red.....................47 psi (3.2bar)
722.414 .....................Brown..................41 psi (2.8bar)
722.416 .....................Black...................44 psi (3.0bar)
722.418 .....................Red.....................47 psi(3.2bar)To serial #813648
722.418 .....................Black ..................47 psi(3.2bar)From serial#813649


Removal, Replacement And Adjustment of Transmission Modulator Valve


You need to do this to properly check the internal hydraulic pressure of the transmission after installing a new modulator.

Overview of What to do:

You are going to connect a psi gauge to a test port on your transmission's underside near your vacuum modulator.


Then, turn the car on and make some adjustments, and then remove the gauge and you're done.

You need to set the pressure correctly. There's a right answer - it's not a rule of thumb or by feel measurement.

Each transmission is different and You need the factory presure for your transmission.

Materials required:

- 12mm socket and 1/4"Rachet
-you can purchase a transmission pressure gauge set it works better to me just thread it in.


You can get one hereTransmission Pressure Gauge ATD5550
or hereATD5500
for under $35

OR you can make one this way
1 banjo bolt scrounged off of an ALDA on a yard car. The ALDA is the square unit on top of the injection pump on a turbo model. There is a banjo fitting leading into the ALDA from some clear tubing. Thats the one you want. Take the hollow bolt, two washers and banjo fitting.
- a few feet of 3/16" ID vinyl tubing rated for 60 psi or more.
- a 0-100 psi gauge.
-teflon tape for NPT fitting
-ramps for front wheels. Jackstands can work too.
-chocks for rear wheels
-TDM (Tecnical Data Manual) pressure settings for your transmission.

Gauge assembly:

-Make sure your homemade guage or the one you purchased is clean. Transmission fluid is going to go into this fitting, and then get sucked back into the transmission. You want this thing clean!
-attach your gauge to the hose fitting using some teflon tape.
- push the the ends of the vinyl hose onto the hose fittings on the gauge and the banjo bolt.
-make sure everything looks nice and tight. This stuff will be under 50-80 psi.
-wrap a plastic bag around the banjo bolt (keep it clean!) end of your gauge assembly and bring it to the car

Removal of Modulator



make sure you have the right fluid level in your transmission.
- put front wheels on ramps. Jackstands can also work, but get them up high!
-put e-brake on and chock the rear wheels. Safety first...
-turn car off and put in P.
-Remove the exhaust bracket form the rear of the transmission. You may also need to remove seporate the exhaust to get the transmission to lower enough to have good acces to the modulator
- Support transmission with a jack and Remove transmission crossmember by unbolting the two bolts on either side of the member and the transmission mount bolt. You may also need to unbolt the driveline carrier
-Lower transmission
Using a 1/4" allen socket with a long extension and a swivel ratchet remove the retaining bolts from the modulator.
-Remove replace modulator
If you are just adjusting the modulator you can leave the exhaust and transmount in tact but it will be very tight to work on.

It is also a good Idea to replace the modulator Pin which is located behind the modulator after removal these are know to break.



Setting the Modulator:
-
-make sure you have that pressure setting from the TDM handy
- a little below and to the rear of the modulator is a 12mm bolt. This is your test port. Unscrew the bolt and put it to the side somewhere...you guessed it..Clean!.
-screw in your banjo bolt or purchased guage. Point the hose up and to the rear of the car. BE VERY CAREFUL to seat the bolt correctly. Check again. If you dont, fluid will spew everywhere when you do the test.
-snug it down, but do not overtighten.
-look at picture this is how it looks, but you wont have red fluid in the line yet.
-check everything again, and crawl out from underneath the car.
-plug the vacuum line that dives down to the transmission from the engine compartment.
-start the car. Quickly look down and check for leaks.
-Fluid will be running down the tube, but wont make it to the gauge. A pressure reading will be registering on the gauge
-what you need to do next is make the adjustment. This is done on the modulator itself. There is a little black plastic cap that hides a t handle. To make the adjustment youll need to pull the cap off, pop the T handle out a little bit and screw IN(right) to RAISE pressure, and screw OUT(left) to LOWER pressure. Adjustment is a little bit at a time.
-the adjustment doesn't take long if you do it with the car running.
-once the correct reading is achieved, let the car idle for a bit and make sure the reading is nice and stable after the transmission is at operating temperature.
-turn the car off.
- take off the banjo bolt or purchased guage, reinstall the 12mm plug bolt. re install the modulator rubber cap. reconnect the vacuum line.
- remove chocks, take car off ramps. test drive

Be sure to view these links they will help you out alot with the 722.3 and 722.4 transmissions.
http://transtec.com/tech_insert/94642.pdf
ATSG repair manual automatic transmission 722.3, 722.4
http://www.autotransonline.ro/cataloage/EUROPENE/MERCEDES/722-300-400.pdf
 

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10
#2 ·
Hattenator

Nice job so far. You found a number of the articles I found as well.

One paragraph has you disconnecting the exhaust from the motor. Being picky, the trans is lowered then start the car, the exhaust will needed to be hooked back up and one would assume if that is required, then you will have to raise the trans again, then remove to make an adjustment, lower/raise/lower/raise per test and again to remover the gage once done.

Two detailed articles said to disconnect the bracket from the trans to the exhaust pipe , not the exhaust from the motor. Typo maybe?

One is I hope the exhaust can remain in tact and have enough play to come down a bit. I am concerned on my 92 2.3 the drive shaft can remain attached as well. There is a bracket that might allow a 1" drop. We will see as I will be doing mine soon.

The Banjo Bolt Thread is still a problem for me. I don't want to go looking around in Wrecking Yards looking for 190D in tact. Still looking.

Also, and I will find it. The Data sheets are hard to read, I found a list retyped somewhere.

Link to any of the good detailed sites would be a plus. More the merrier.

Dan
 
#3 ·
I have only started reading on this site, but there's lots of info here on transmissions. Mine problem is a lazy shift at 50% throttle, it may not even be the Modulator, but I will be doing the modulator before going here, for more adventurous DIY's.

I found Trans Test Kits, but they come with a number of different threaded fittings, so still looking for the test port thread. I may have to pull my plug first and measure it myself.

http://********/articles/transmission/k1/

Dan
 
#4 · (Edited)
As the DIY states you can leave your drive shaft in place but you may need to unbolt the drive line carrier to give it some clearance.

It is possible that you can do this with the exhuast just unbolted from the transmission but I am not sure it will give you the maximum amount of room possible if you are changing the modulator.

If I was just going to adjust the modulator I would try to take the least possible apart just to get a little more room for the adjustment.

Lazy shifts can be caused by the modulator being turned down to far as to where hard shifts are caused by low or no vacuum or modulator turned up to high.

Instead of looking around for a banjo bolt it also states in the DIY you can buy a transmission pressure tester. you can get one of these for around $45.

I will make sure to add the lazy shifting to the DIY


THIS POST WAS EDITED TO ADD THE FOLLOWING





 
#109 ·
flaring shifts

Thanks for posting this as it confirmed my suspicion that I not only have to do the k1 spring kit but rebuild the k2 clutch pack. friends are telling me to have the whole transmission rebuilt...but by WHOM...and if I can fix it for a few dollars in parts why blow $1500+ is the issue

Well the issue is my 722.303 is slipping from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th....1st to 2nd is fine, so after reading about all this, I dont think I need a full rebuild, I think I just need K1 and K2....found the part number for K1 thrust spring kit....cant find k2..havent even looked for the clutch pack kit yet....any ideas?
 
#5 · (Edited)
Agreed, undo as little as possible to do the job is my motto, but sometimes it is just better to bite the bullet and get some stuff out of the way, I usually make it tougher than it needs to be. Unbolting the exhaust if needed is not a big deal, just more work.

You already gave my the idea for Googling, I went looking at Trans Test Kits. They come with an assortment of fittings, but I can't find anything yet that says it will work with our trans.

I am quite concerned I may be doing the K1 valve, problem description fits me to a tee. Perfect shifts all gears at low or high throttle positions, but a lazy 2nd to 3rd around 50%. Modulator first and we will see.

Dan
 
#6 ·
I found all of the modulator pressures for transmissions I only added them to the post, there may be a couple that are for a different models but most are for the 190 series
 
#7 ·
Just an added note for replacing the Vacuum Modulator.

When I replaced the VM on my '93 2.3, the first time around I removed the trans. cross member, but the transmission wouldn't lower enough to gain access to the VM bolts.

So I posted on this site, and thanks to fellow member MTI, he advised me to remove the exhaust/muffler hangers and brackets so the transmission would drop down far enough to get to the Vacuum Modulator. Needless to day, it worked!

Also, if anyone is doing this procedure, this would be the time to replace those worn out shifter linkage bushings. Cheap parts and it make a huge difference...tight and no more rattle.
 
#8 ·
I believe in the DIY I have the exhaust listed to be removed for changing the modulator. Thanks for the tip on the bushings they are a common problem and that would be a good time to change them

Just as a Note I will be adding more troubleshooting tips to the main post some will not be modulator related but they will help everyone out on diagnosing there transmission problem.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I need to take a picture of that and edit the post. You can drop the hanger or you can drop the hanger and drop the exhaust at the front.

Just so you know I will be updating a few things on the DIY be sure to check the links I add out they will have alot of info including trobleshooting for the 722.3 and 722.4 transmissions. they should answer just about any question any one has about thes transmissions.
 
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#11 ·
Very detailed rebuild links, especially the last one. Shift complaints in just about any combination you can think of and the remedy. Except, the number one complaint is the hard shift 1st to 2nd with actually is not addressed other the All shifts being harsh it's vacuum and or modulator adjustment.

Still don't see the Thread of the test port :-( , but one thing I was wondering about to save time is one click on the Adjusting Pin is approx .4 bar which would help get in the game sooner.

Thanks
Dan
 
#12 · (Edited)
just pop the test port bolt out and check the bolt threads and diameter any good hardware or automotive place that sells metric bolt should a thread pitch guage. then you will know and it shouldnt be too hard to get that bolt out.

Have you checked your vac lines yet going to the modulator. if you pull the line off a modulator and then drive it you get that hard shift from first to second you are talking about. I would check the line if you havent
 
#21 · (Edited)
Exactly, see post #5 :)

Dan

Edit: and post #55 on the "Kicking Trannie" thread.
just called my local Stealership, Caliber Motors of Anaheim, CA. They have 17 K1 kits in stock, $ 9.10. Part number jived 126 270 44 77 as a K1 kit for a 722.xxx trans. What a deal. So, when I get the new filter and shift bushing in, I am going the K1 route first by symptom for me and I don't have to drop the trans., just go in when the pan is down.

And the "Superior Spring kit" which get's a mess of springs to alter the shift the way you want it. $ 50
 
#17 · (Edited)
Dan does this sound like yours

This link goes to a detailed pictured walkthrough of this proceedurehttp://www.benzworld.org/forums/w201-190e-d-class/1361737-diy-mercedes-722-3-722-4-722-5-transmission-k1-piston-spring-repair-kit-install.html

The K1 Kit Page
2/3 Upshift Flare Repair

This is a fix for transmission slip/flare on 2-3 upshift at partial load for 722.3,722.4 and 722.5 automatic transmission


If your automatic transmission shifts fine with the exception of a flare on the shift up from 2nd to 3rd, and you've exhausted all your adjustment options, then the K1 Accumulator Spring Kit might be the solution.

The spring kit (part number 126 270 44 77) will cost you less than $10, and is a drop in replacement for the K1 accumulator's spring/piston assembly in your transmission's valve body. While you're buying parts, you will also need several quarts of transmission fluid and a new gasket for the pan. You might as well change the filter while you are in there too.

Before you begin. Get some old newspapers/cardboard underneath the transmission. Fluid will be constantly dripping while the transmission pan is off.

Begin by draining the transmission fluid. On my W126, I also had to remove the front crossmenber (by undoing 3 bolts on either side) to get the necessary clearance to unscrew the K1 accumulator cover. NOTE: MB recommends replacing these bolts. You may want to support the crossmember with a small jack to avoid it clattering to the ground.

Once the fluid's drained, unbolt and remove the transmission pan. Again, you might want to use a small jack to support it. Also, bear in mind there will probably still be fluid in the pan.

Locate the front of the valve body. You will be unscrewing 4 screws and removing a rectangular cover.

NOTE: The four screws for the cover are very tight. I ended up using a 1/4 inch driver with a flat-headed socket to unscrew them.

This was especially useful for the top screws, since the curve of the torque converter housing made it difficult to turn a screwdriver.

Pull out the spring/piston assembly from the valvebody. It'll look something like this.

Go ahead and pull the spring assembly out from the tube. You'll notice that there is also a small spring left at the bottom of the tube. Remove that too.

Put the old springs aside and open up your new parts. First of all, drop the new small spring into your old tube.

Next, loosely assemble the rest of the pieces from the kit (2 springs, 2 plastic rods) like so. NOTE: It may not be obvious from the picture, but the smaller spring goes on the white rod, and they are then inserted into one end of the big spring.

Now the fun part. You're going to have to squash that loose assembly of springs and plastic rods together. Carefully. The white rod will fit into the black, but it does take a fair bit of pressure to do this. Once the 'head' of the white rod is in all the way, the entire assembly will hold itself together (just like the old one does). Just be careful and take your time. Remember, your dealing with springs under pressure, and parts can go flying if you're not careful (don't ask me how I know).

Before putting everything together, make sure everything is nice and clean. When you're ready, drop your new spring assembly into the tube like so.

Now put the entire assembly back into the valve body, and screw the cover back on, nice and tight.

From this point on you are effectively following the same procedure as a transmission fluid/filter change. If you are also replacing your transmission filter, now's a good time to do so. Put your new seal on the transmission pan, and bolt it back up (don't overtighten it either). If applicable, bolt your front crossmember back on, and fill up the transmission, being careful not to overfill it. NOTE: The transmission dipstick under-reads when the transmission is cold.

Before going for a test drive, start the car up, and with the brake on, run the gear selector up and down the gate, pausing a few seconds at each position, so the gear engages/disengages, and the fresh transmission fluid gets a chance to circulate properly.

Hopefully, you should notice an improvement in the 2-3 flare. You may find that you have to make some adjustments, since it's possible that the transmission was previously adjustated to try and compensate for the flare.
 

Attachments

#20 ·
190ED

you are very welcomed and I am glad I could help and I hope it helps alot of people with tranny problems. what problems were you having with your 190
 
#22 ·
Well I just picked up another 16v drove it 1500k home. But now its blowing white smoke and is dead slow. Seems like I don't start in second but third and the actual gear selector in the car is just sloppy and I can't select 2,3,d, just sort of in the middle. New problem when I went out today if I rev it up to 4k or so it takes like 10 seconds to come back down.
 
#23 ·
Sounds like several problems

What year is your car

Check all basic stuff first such as plugs wires filter etc.

On the smoke issue make sure you check the engine oil to see if it is milky or if there is any milky rsidue on the oil cap. I am having you check this to see if you have a headgasket problem you said it was white smoke and low power trans fuild can appear white but it will have a blue or grey tint to it. If the smoke fills up several lanes of traffic then maybe it is the modulator but if it is just a small cloud of white smoke it could be the headgasket which would help explain your power problem. Oh yea does the car get hot?


The gear shift selector being sloppy is caused from the bushings on the shift linkage going bad The car should always starts in first even though your selector only goes to 2nd


The high idle can be many things is your ABS light on.

Check the fuse or fuses in the OVP relay. The OVP Relay is behind the battery next to the Modules and looks like this


I also attached a schematic


Also you may need to start checking vacuum lines there are some that go to the ICV(idle control valve) that are common to go bad from age or the valve could be going bad

Check some of this and let me know what you find. If you dont have on yet get the W201 manual here Modified Technologies, Inc | Enthusiast Gear it is a large file to down load but it will be very helpful for ya
 
#25 ·
Hey I have to come over here from the 190rev more often you guys are great. Before I brought the car back I checked the fluids and all were full. When it warmed up outside I noticed the white smoke. ( probably smoked the whole time but it was -30 out so I might not of noticed) I read this post, went out and checked the fluid and it was now not even showing a drop. So I filled the fluid up and now smoke is still flowing and the revs have gone wacky, maybe not 10 seconds but a good 5. The shifter problem I think you right about the linkage. I will check all your suggestions tomorrow. I called the dealership and it's only 65$ for the mod so Ill get that bushing to. Oh and it idles a little rough when cold at 600 rpm but perfect when warmed up at about 1k

Thanks for all the help, I was starting to think my new 16v had a bad tranny and a blown HG.
 
#27 · (Edited)
A Modulator can be had for $ 40 , autohausaz.com

Idle at 600/1000: Your ICV is not working. There is an entire thread devoted to the ICV. mmmm "who really knows the ICV" I think is the title of the thread. Idle should be 750 ish warmed up. Cold start about 1k, 28 seconds and drop to 750. Funny thing is, if you're not paying attention, idle warm at 1k, when in gear idling is 750 so you think all is well. Could be sticky, hose leak ( not likely as the idle would be higher ) or no voltage from the OPV Hattenator posted. The ICV has a heater element that when voltage is applied, it warms up and closes down the ICV, so even though there's voltage present, the heater element could be bad as well. That is checked with an Ohm meter, it's in the thread.

Or, the 4 pin temp sensor: I just read Hattenators post. "Water Temperature Sensor for computer giving false signal"

Dan
 
#26 ·
be sure to change those bushings on your linkage while you got that tranny down. The ruff idle can be caused by a few things.

Along with the other list of things to check you might want to check this after everythig else if you have fixed the modulator and a tune up has been done vaccum lines checked etc. If you still have a rough idle.


Check all of the breather hoses for correct fit/mounting and cracks.

If total vehicle miles are over 100K, you might want to replace the seals
between intake and injector.
Cold Start Valve O-Ring bad?
E.H.A. Valve bad or Seal leaking?
Water Temperature Sensor for computer giving false signal?
Damaged wire?

Cold Start Valve O-Ring
Note: Seal Ring
Also used at inlet connector to fuel distributor.
E1030-19034 Fuel Filter Seal 8.2mm ID Bosch $0.69

C4002-70381 Cold Start Valve O-Ring $0.57


Picture of E.H.A. Valve that is Mounted on fuel distributor. EHA valve can cause a ruff idle it is located on the side of the fuel distribtuion unit.



PART NUMBER SEARCH RESULTS WITH PRICES
Vehicle 1990 Mercedes Benz 190E 2.6
Part: E.H.A. Valve Seal
C2032-70434 E.H.A. Valve Seal IN STOCK $2.45

[
 
#29 · (Edited)
#31 · (Edited)
.

Actually that is one I found though I think it was like $ 23.00. Also on Ebay for $ 35 ish.

No Banjo but it states it comes with various ( they don't say actual sizes ) adapters including metric and you will notice there are a couple of angle fittings which would do the same job as the Banjo to aim down as I expect it to be tight in there.

Good news is, my Filter kit should be here tomorrow, then off to the Stealerships for the K1 kit. So, I should be putting in mine soon so I can offer first hand info. :) Problem is, I am about to do more than one change, so I need a plan to do separately so I can actually see what if anything fixed my problem.

Plan A : Change the filter/fluid and install the K1 kit. This doesn't involve lowering the Trans. Test Drive - and I HOPE I can to the test post and measure the plug.

Also check the Vacuum while I am down there and replace the shift bushing.


Plan B: Actually measure the current pressure before replacing the Modulator. I might even apply vacuum to the modulator to check for a ruptured diaphragm and or does it leak. I don't think so as my fluid level is fine. I did have to replace some but I also had some small leaks corrected by just tightening the pan bolts. Good since then.

Plan C: Is to change the modulator. Most likely even if these changes correct my problems as I now own a new one.

I was thinking IF I do purchase the testor, I might put together a little Rental Program in place for members. I was thinking a Pressure and Vac Gage with plenty of hose to run into the car for drive testing. Say $ 10 + $ 5 for UPS Rental paid to PayPal and who ever has it forwards to who ever needs it kinda thing. Might be a lame idea.

Edit: Ah,, $ 27 ATD Tools 5550 - Automatic Transmission and Engine Oil Pressure Gauge Kit SJ in Ohio.


Dan
 
#33 ·
Dan

Check this one out you are going to love it.
I added it to the K1 walkthrough page of this post and then referenced that in the original DYI so folks can find it easier
I found that article but the pics were missing. Others were asking were to find the pics. I have not picked up the kit yet and I didn't expect 3 springs, I thought it was one. I need a better pic of the exact location, don't want to pull and replace the wrong assembly now do I. :) The exploded trans repair you posted will supply location just fine I think when I get ready.

Also, one guy was complaining about the use of Mobil 1 synth, trans started slipping in most gear changes. Blamed Mobil 1 for being tooooo slick. Says a lot for Mobil 1 actually if you could adjust for it there should be less wear. He went back to Dextron III and was happy again.


Dan
 
#34 · (Edited)
#36 ·
Hattenator

Can you switch the K1 link on the first page with this one,,, way better pics and they are perfect... how do I know you may be asking,, I just replaced my K1 spring.
Use this one: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w20...sion-k1-piston-spring-repair-kit-install.html

Report - My symptoms was 1 to 2, a bit hard at times but not bad, Excellent at lower shift speeds or full. 2nd to 3rd was the problem, lazy shift with a flare any where around 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Trans had to be fully warmed up, dip stick a bit hot to touch for this to show up. Flare would average about 500 RPM's worst case. Not every day but most and especially holding the throttle at about 50% and don't move it. 3 to 4th, perfect.

I picked up the kit at the Steelership, a bargain at $ 10. By chance when I wasn't looking I found an Angle Ratchet as shown in the pics a couple of days ago in a bargain bin, damn thing works great.

After going over the pics I set out to seek and destroy. Drained the pan and the converter, converter takes a while to drain. I used the time to tighten the return line on the power steering pump, a bitch to get to but it had a slow leak and it was loose.

Placed a sheet of cardboard and a layer of newspaper under the pan, that was a good thing as it drips forever with the pan off.

K1 location, bolts, everything was exactly as in the pics, hats off to the guy who took the time to share with pics. Tips like leaving the last screw partially in was a nice, didn't have to figure which way the plate went back on.

Even though I had just looked at the pics, once under the car and I pulled the K1 unit out, NO smaller spring in the housing. Panic mode was about to set in when I realized the smaller spring is inside the Green K1 housing.. whew...

He was right, assembling the springs and locking the white plastic pc into the black takes a bit of pressure but some care and no springs went flying.

Spring pressure of the assembly is considerably more, 30 to 50% more than existing.

Re-assembled, filled with 5 qts, I fired it up and went through the gears to fill the converter, and I couldn't be sure All the fluid came out. I checked the cold dip stick and then added the 6th qt. 722.4 takes 6.6 liters, or 6.95 qt. and went for a slow test drive.

1 to 2, 2 to 3 was perfect at lower shift speeds and 3 to4th was about undetectable smooth.

I put on about 3-4 miles, all throttle positions many times from stop sign to stop sign. I had a big smile,,, WoW! this is great. 1-2-3 was just amazing.

Well, I wish I could say this was how it ended, around mile 5 or 6, hard driving, manual and auto shifting the 2 to 3rr Flare reappeared though a bit different. Flare is lower, maybe 2-300 RPM's worse case but it gets over it a bit quicker and firmer.

We will see how it goes this next week. Even when hot enough for the Flare to show up. any normal traffic shift points , say 1-2 around 20 mph and 2 to 3rd 30 to 35 mph, very nice on both. When hot the flare is up around 40+MPH 3000 RMS and it's 2-300 rpms, worse I saw was one 400 RPM Flare.

Next will be the new Modulator/pin and check the existing pressure first just because, then replace the Mod and set the pressure.

So, I am reasonably pleased so far.

regards
Dan
 
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