Aftermarket alarm installation. - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-14-2009, 08:11 AM
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I used the green wire on the right side (passenger side on USA vehicle) of the vehicle. You only need 1 wire to open/close the doors. Just remember to look in the manual and set the door lock setting to "vacum.". I had to buy two relays and do this:




#85 & #86 go to the door look wires on your alarm

#30 & #87 is the green wire from the car you cut. Each end of that green wire you cut, you plug into #30 & #86 on the relay.

#87 is ground

#85, #86, #87 connect together and tap into 12v. Make sure this wire has a fuse.

#30 & #87a connect together

If you look on the bottom of the relay, they are numbered.

Last edited by Sincity; 02-14-2009 at 08:37 AM.
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post #12 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-14-2009, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east7euro7united View Post
trickiest part is getting to the ignition cylinder if your doing a remote start, its way up past the steering column almost by the gauge cluster.the alarm is simple and id recommend running diodes for the parking lights so they dont backfeed. the locks get done at the vacuum pump under the seat you must isolate the green trigger going to the pump. (+) will run towards the pump (-) away from. This will trigger all the doors.then just run the wire back to the brain

easy part is that everything is in one central location pretty much makes it very simple once you tear it apart and figure whats what. Just put in a viper 5701 remote keyless security id say it took about 5 hours done at a steady pace.

not tricky at all get to the ign wires at the fuse box end.,.


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post #13 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-14-2009, 08:47 AM
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Thanks for the link to this thread, Jippi. It helped me tackle the project.
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post #14 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-14-2009, 09:20 AM
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Thanks Sincity, but my remote central locking unit is different, it should not need the relais this is the cabling:



I only need to know which are the 3 cables and what are their use: green yellow and blue!

I'm seriously thinking of taking the wires and the alimentation right from the locker pump (picture #3 I posted)... at least I don't have problems of extra wiring!

Ciao, Massimo - Italy - Perugia (Center)
Mercedes 190E 2.0 (w201 024), year 1986 - Fiat 850 Sport Coupè 900 cc, year 1970,
Ford Transit (van) 2,400 cc, year 1979 - Suzuki GS750E 750 cc, year 1980,
BMW 316i compact 1,600 cc, year 1996 - Bayliner Avanti 3055 7.4L BravoII 7.400cc, year 1991

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Last edited by mcimichell; 02-14-2009 at 09:24 AM.
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post #15 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-14-2009, 02:34 PM
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Looking around on the net I also found these 2 pics:
Pic #1

Pic #2


But... why the plug has 3 wires if only the green one is to use? What are the blue and yellow for?
Thanks guys!

Ciao, Massimo - Italy - Perugia (Center)
Mercedes 190E 2.0 (w201 024), year 1986 - Fiat 850 Sport Coupè 900 cc, year 1970,
Ford Transit (van) 2,400 cc, year 1979 - Suzuki GS750E 750 cc, year 1980,
BMW 316i compact 1,600 cc, year 1996 - Bayliner Avanti 3055 7.4L BravoII 7.400cc, year 1991

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post #16 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-14-2009, 05:13 PM
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Subscribing since this thread has been raised for the Dead. I might get motivated again to trace my issue with the Alarm going off when ever it pleases, usually in the middle of the night so I can't use it. I might go off in 30 mins, or hours I never know.

92 190 2.3. Current alarm the best I can figure is not a stock unit but I has been installed for years.

I pretty much know it has something to do with Seat Beat Warning Lights ( at the Dome Light ) flashing. Flashing goes for ever, while driving, sitting there, alarm on or off but every once in a while they stop.

So , I don't know if it is a the Alarm itself gone bad, or some short issue.

Plan B - replace the whole thing. The guy who installed it was a Genius, very professional install.

All wiring is accessed on the Drivers side though.

Dan
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post #17 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-14-2009, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Logon_Bob View Post
Subscribing since this thread has been raised for the Dead. I might get motivated again to trace my issue with the Alarm going off when ever it pleases, usually in the middle of the night so I can't use it. I might go off in 30 mins, or hours I never know.

92 190 2.3. Current alarm the best I can figure is not a stock unit but I has been installed for years.

I pretty much know it has something to do with Seat Beat Warning Lights ( at the Dome Light ) flashing. Flashing goes for ever, while driving, sitting there, alarm on or off but every once in a while they stop.

So , I don't know if it is a the Alarm itself gone bad, or some short issue.

Plan B - replace the whole thing. The guy who installed it was a Genius, very professional install.

All wiring is accessed on the Drivers side though.

Dan
It's properly going off all the time, you only noticed it going off at night because the car parked at home & your at home.

If it's not a fancy alarm system with remote lock/start, etc. I would replace it.

Last edited by cypress188; 02-14-2009 at 07:46 PM.
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post #18 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-14-2009, 08:50 PM
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Sincity, I went to the 12volt.com web site, at Car Security and Convenience, Power Door Locks, Multiple Wire Systems, Add Auto Lock/Unlock and I read this below your 2 relays scheme:

"This is one of the most common type of door lock switch configurations found in most vehicles. In most cases you will not need to add relays for this type. Most of the newer alarms and keyless entries on the market today have both positive and negative 200 ma door lock outputs that are usually capable of activating the factory relays. Should you need to add relays for a "3 wire negative" door lock system, just change both normally open terminals (87) from 12V(+) to ground. If your alarm or keyless entry has positive outputs only, you will have to connect the other side of the coils to ground and connect your outputs as shown. The lock and unlock wires below refer to the switch wires, not the motor legs. "

Now, from the wiring of my KE200 RCL I think I don't need the 2 relays, since it should be capable of both negative and positive output, am I wrong?
I have to check with a tester whether it's like I said!

Ciao, Massimo - Italy - Perugia (Center)
Mercedes 190E 2.0 (w201 024), year 1986 - Fiat 850 Sport Coupè 900 cc, year 1970,
Ford Transit (van) 2,400 cc, year 1979 - Suzuki GS750E 750 cc, year 1980,
BMW 316i compact 1,600 cc, year 1996 - Bayliner Avanti 3055 7.4L BravoII 7.400cc, year 1991

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post #19 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-14-2009, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Wow! My zombie alarm post from HELL! Nice to see it could bring some help to you guys. The 12volt.com diagram that Sincity posted looks exactly like the way I hooked mine up. I've had no problems at all with the install since. All lights still work, headlights come on for a "dome Light" feature, locks work great. Keep in mind that my alarm system has the option of either .5 sec or 3 sec lock/unlock pulses. 3 sec pulse for the Benz, of course.

"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
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post #20 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-15-2009, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcimichell View Post
Thanks Sincity, but my remote central locking unit is different, it should not need the relais this is the cabling:



I only need to know which are the 3 cables and what are their use: green yellow and blue!

I'm seriously thinking of taking the wires and the alimentation right from the locker pump (picture #3 I posted)... at least I don't have problems of extra wiring!
I suppose you could always try it without the relays and see what happens. If it doesn't work, then pickup the two relays. If you read the relay wiring diagram that you found on the net, it says use the blue on the left and green on the right. From what I have read, you could use either. I think most people use the green on the right side because that is where most people install the alarm because you can tap into the stock alarm wires.
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