BenzWorld Junior Member
Date registered: Jan 2005
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RE: Testing the Fuel Pressure Regulator? â€“ Dead engine.
We got the car back on the road.
Thanks for all pointers and information.
The problem was with the Fuel Distributor and the Start Valve.
To help any fellow DIY, who would face a similar problem, let me try to summarize what we did.
Since there was no fuel on the injector lines (with fuel pump running) BUT plenty of fuel on the Start Valve fuel line, return line and fuel distributor lower chamber (fuel distributor pressure test point), we figured that something got to be wrong with the fuel distributor.
We disconnected the fuel distributor and removed it from the car. Disassembled the distributor, cleaned all the â€˜linesâ€™ with carburetor cleaner (and air/compressor), assembled it and re-installed it.
This fixed the problem with fuel to the fuel injector lines (with the fuel pump running â€“ plenty of fuel on the fuel injector lines).
BUT, with the fuel pump running, it sounded like a lot of fuel was running through the distributor!! The engine did not start AND stopped crankingâ€¦NOW the engine was flooding.. There was so much fuel in the cylinders that the starter could not turn the engine.
After draining the fuel (by removing the spark plug) a couple of times it was evident that something else was wrong. Actually, the flooding was so severe that we also got fuel in the engine oil.
The next possible problem (the only one left that we could think of) was the Start Valve. So, we swapped out the Start Valve (and the fuel distributor, just to eliminate this as a problem source).
The engine STARTED at the first go - problem solved.
We shut the engine down right away, because of the problem with fuel in the engine oil. Drained the oil-fuel â€˜mixtureâ€™ and added new/fresh oil. Started the engine to run the oil through the engine and burn off all the excessive fuel (first some fuel came out the exhaust, then a lot of white smoke).
Drained the oil, replaced the filter and added new engine oil.
Drove the car for about 10 miles - Now it starts at the first crank and runs better than ever.
After more that 200 miles, the engine oil looks and feels new (and does not smell of fuel).
Long story, but happy ending.
Just a couple of pointers:
Be extremely careful if you decide to disassemble it. The diaphragm inside the unit breaks easily and itâ€™s difficult to put back together.
Considering the possible severity of the problem, we bought a â€˜newâ€™ engine (only 80K miles). With the spare engine, we can swap parts in our efforts to find the problems, and if we could not fix the problems by swapping parts, we could always do an engine swap.
Be careful when testing for fuel â€˜flowâ€™, i.e. â€˜openâ€™ fuel lines, testing pressure and flow, etc. It does not take much to ignite the fuel or the fuel vapors.
If you have to drain fuel from the cylinders, remove the spark plugs, move the cords to the other side of the engine, put towels underneath the sparkplug hole and cover the hole, ALL before you crank the engine (if not, you will have fuel all over the engine, up in the air and maybe you).
Best place to do this: outside!
Thanks again for all the help from you all.