semi automatic problem (no clutch) - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 85 (permalink) Old 07-16-2007, 03:51 AM Thread Starter
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semi automatic problem (no clutch)

i have a semi automatic A class avantgarde(1999 version) and i think the gear clutch sysem is going - i was wondering where i could get a cheap semi automatic gearbox and how much it will cost me to replace?

Once i tried to change the gear nob but i could not take it off, it was like it was wealded on.... is it possible?
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post #2 of 85 (permalink) Old 07-23-2007, 02:48 AM
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the gearbox on the ACS is the same as a standard manual, its only the clutch which is automatic. It uses a hydrolic system to open and close the clutch. Most faults on this system are electrical and stem from the sensors mounted on top if the gearbox or the hydrolic actuator mounted behind the passenger wing.

What symptoms are you having?
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post #3 of 85 (permalink) Old 10-09-2007, 06:22 AM
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i hav exactly the prob.. its the clucth hydrolic pump failure.. seems tat its hard to find the parts , only way its order it from germany.
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post #4 of 85 (permalink) Old 10-12-2007, 02:06 AM
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ACS Pump failure

My story which may be of help.

I had a 160 ACS that the pump failed on. The symptoms started with the car suddenly reporting an error on the dash an the car refusing to go into gear. At first if I switched the car off for five mins and on again it usually fixed itself. However the fault quickly got worse to the point it wasn't driveable.
I found that a sharp bang to the passanger side wing got the car going again for a short period and when I discovered this was where the ACS pump was I decided to investigate.
I would recomend having a go at this yourself if your handy with the spanners as its not that difficult and you'll save the £600 odd pounds the stealer wanted to charge me to fix it. Even if your pumps totally buggered you can very easily fit it yourself saving £90 an hour at the stealers.

Remove the passenger side wing, very easy as its just bolted on. behind it you'll find the pump it looks like a large cylinder with a tube coming out the end and a smaller cylinder on the side. I removed it completely as at the time I didn't know what was wrong with it but I suspect you can just unbolt it so you can get access to the electric motor on the side ( the smaller cylinder).
If memory serves there where two screws holding the motor casing on, undo these and pull the casing off to reveal the rotor and actuator. Look closely at the rotor end which is towards the tube end of the larger cylinder, you should see a sort of structure holding two blocks of copper either side of the rotor. Theses are the bushes and in my case these where the problem as they had worn out (after 60K miles!! come on mercedes).
these blocks have a silver wire coming out of them through a cut out in the cage. As the bushes wear the wire moves along this cut out until it meets the edge of the cage and can no longer self adjust at which point the pump fails.
to remove the bushes carefully prise open the end of there runners, slide them out and cut the silver wire (remembering to leave enough to solder you new bushes to). Surprise, surprise Mercedes doesn't stock these bushes (not in the UK anyway) so it was off to my local autoelectricians who where able to source me a similar set for the princely sum of £10. fit in reverse order to removal, being careful with the motor casing, it contains magnets around the inside so it can be tricky to get the rotor end into the casings bearing. and remember you'll need a soldering iron to re attach the bushes silver wire.

If like me, you remove the pump completely and let all the hydrolic fluid out, a simple way of bleeding the system once the pump was re attached is a s follows.

switch the ignition on with the bleed valve open, close the valve ans switch ignition off, repeat a few times.

so to sum up a couple of hours work and £10 or £600 to the stealer.

Hope this helps.
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post #5 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-30-2008, 05:57 AM
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Hi Guys, think the fix on here might be worth a go.. but furtehr advise woudl be nice.

I’ve just got myself and new car and given the A Class to my wife.. anyway after a month the semi-auto gearbox has stopped working.

We have a W reg 170 CDTi all has been fine with the gearbox, but yesterday the car just stopped mid-journey with a F showing on the dashboard LCD display... the car will only start when you press the break peddle but will not go into gear, however when the engine is off the gears feel like they select fine.

Thanks

Jonny
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post #6 of 85 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 04:36 AM
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i'm having similar issues with my a140 (s reg) semi-automatic.
just yesterday she started fooling around, and won't go into 1st, 3rd or 5th sometimes (i find it particularly odd that all of these gears are at the top of the box). at times she's perfectly fine, sometimes it won't go at all, and sometimes i wiggle it around a bit and it goes in, by which time i've lost engine speed and need 2nd or 4th anyway! When i'm stationary she'll go into 1st no problems, but sometimes is dodgy when i'm trying to slow down to 1st.
i'm just about to sell her - bad timing?!

I kind of figured that perhaps my gear selector had maybe moved out of place... 1st, 2nd and 3rd just feel blocked off somehow...

Can anyone relate to this?

Hueys owner
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post #7 of 85 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 12:52 AM
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my son had the same problem. MB fixed with star diagnostic and it was a worn plastic gear selector. take it to the pros
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post #8 of 85 (permalink) Old 12-09-2009, 01:40 AM
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to add to the very helpful advice of carsen80 I have just had exactly this problem and his description of the fault and its diagnosis was 100% correct. In fact we found it was not necessary to remove the front wing although it would make the unit more accessable. It can be removed and replaced by removing the wheelarch lining.

The local semi official Mercedes garage wanted £1,100 for the job of replacing this unit. The labour in this was £300 for a job that would take about an hour if you were not doing it for the first time. The brushes are the same as used in various similar motors and someone specialising in car electrics will have something quite useable.

The cynicism with which this kind of fault is repaired by Mercedes approved repairers is really quite stunning. The official price to replace the unit is about £800 here in the UK and they are hard to find from breakers; prices vary from £250 to £350 for such used units it seems.
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post #9 of 85 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 01:04 AM
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Because of the difficulty finding the parts at a reasonable price and that the fault will no doubt re-occur, I decided to convert my car to fully manual. I bought a pedal box (inc. master clutch cylinder), pipes and reservoir, total cost including next day delivery was just £125. It took about 6 hours to swap over the parts, no doubt it could be done much faster if you had access to a 4 post ramp or pit. I may yet buy the clock panel to do away with the F showing.

Steve.
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post #10 of 85 (permalink) Old 05-28-2010, 12:13 PM
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faulty clutch.

my 98 semi-auto a class 140, has just under 54k miles on the clock and the garage have told me that the clutch is on its way out. can anyone tell me where i can get a second hand or reconditioned clutch. thanks

Last edited by sllerwill1990; 05-28-2010 at 12:16 PM.
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