2014 ML350 4Matic Rear Brakes/Rotors - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by thunderbirl View Post
Sorry if I've got it wrong. I'm looking at buying a 2016 and trying to make sure I get it right. It seems like the new parking brakes are electronic and come on automatically. Did I miss something?


In the 2013 they donít come on automatically but my wifeís 2015 C250 it does. It also comes off automatically though once the cars in gear and you touch the throttle.


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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 06:30 AM
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If you are working on the rear brakes, use these instructions to retract the rear parking brake, you will need this if replacing the rear pads/discs.

Note the rear caliper has the parking brake build into it, it only retracts/opens few mm when releasing, it does not return to fully retracted position during normal operation.

Ensure your drivers door is closed

Set the middle cluster to show odo meter

Set ignition to position 1, (one push if you have keyless go)

Use buttons on steering wheel
-> Press [Answer] button and hold it
-> Press [OK] button and hold it
-> Hold both buttons for roughly 5 sec
-> Service Menu should emerge on center display

Scroll down to down to Pad Replacement

Press [OK]

Now message will ask to press [OK] to enter fitting position -> Press [OK] and you can hear the parking brake motors run until they are fully retracted.

Now you can work on the brakes and replace parts as needed. After you are done, you will need to enter the menu again, this time it will ask if you want to exit pad replacement and return to normal state, when pressing [OK] you can hear that the motor run until they hit resistance and then they retract to position similar as when no parking brake is activated.

Hope above helps
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dand. View Post
Here is the video with special instructions, worked on my 2014 ML

https://youtu.be/kp-Fh0k5w-I



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Did you make this video Dan?
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 07:55 PM
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Did you make this video Dan?
No, I didn't. Found it a long time ago and still think it's one of the best vids.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 2008R320 View Post
If you are working on the rear brakes, use these instructions to retract the rear parking brake, you will need this if replacing the rear pads/discs.

Note the rear caliper has the parking brake build into it, it only retracts/opens few mm when releasing, it does not return to fully retracted position during normal operation.

Ensure your drivers door is closed

Set the middle cluster to show odo meter

Set ignition to position 1, (one push if you have keyless go)

Use buttons on steering wheel
-> Press [Answer] button and hold it
-> Press [OK] button and hold it
-> Hold both buttons for roughly 5 sec
-> Service Menu should emerge on center display

Scroll down to down to Pad Replacement

Press [OK]

Now message will ask to press [OK] to enter fitting position -> Press [OK] and you can hear the parking brake motors run until they are fully retracted.

Now you can work on the brakes and replace parts as needed. After you are done, you will need to enter the menu again, this time it will ask if you want to exit pad replacement and return to normal state, when pressing [OK] you can hear that the motor run until they hit resistance and then they retract to position similar as when no parking brake is activated.

Hope above helps


This procedure did not work on my 2013. Or it was user error probably more likely. Tried 3 times and all I got was reset odometer. Maybe the older functions donít do it pre 2015.


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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-05-2019, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by mattml430 View Post
This procedure did not work on my 2013. Or it was user error probably more likely. Tried 3 times and all I got was reset odometer. Maybe the older functions donít do it pre 2015.


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I've had that happening when trying, its because it important to get the procedure right else Reset ODO will emerge.
I have a 2014, and it works.

If you failed, you must cycle switch ignition off, key out, if Keyless go, push button until ignition is off.

Open and close the drivers door so the radio etc is off.

Then try again.

Also make sure that your center cluster is displaying ODO before attempting to enter service menu.

After pressing and holding [Answer] button press and hold [OK] within 0.5 sec, if your timing is off it will go to Reset ODO

I know it can be frustrating

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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-05-2019, 10:45 AM
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Thanks Iíll try it again today and see how I go.


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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-06-2019, 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mattml430 View Post
Thanks Iíll try it again today and see how I go.


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Found this simple video describing the process as well.

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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 07:58 PM
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I just replaced my rear pads because the wear indicator lamp came on after about 30,000 miles since I did my last brake job. Car is a 2015 ML250. Checked fronts first and they were fine. Checked rears and the outside pads were worn down to about 1/16" of material was left. Bought new pads and did a little research. Seems floating calipers like these can have problems with the guide pins freezing up. On other makes with nearly identical mechanical parts it is apparently common to either replace them or to pull them out and clean them, as well as the bore they ride in. So, I pulled them, cleaned the pins of grease and inspected them. Nothing of note, no rust, no gouges, etc. So I regressed them and put them back in the bore, reassembled the brakes with new pads.

Took the car out for a drive and the rear brakes were much hotter than the fronts. So I took the brakes apart again, and removed the pads, cleaned the bearing surfaces on the bracket that holds the pads where the pin and the 13mm bolt bear, pushed the piston back in, and had about a mm of play after the caliper was installed. I could push the caliper one way and then the other and watch it recenter itself with the 13mm bolts not heavily tightened - snug, but not as tight as I could get it. So then I tightened the 13mm bolts hard and the caliper was no longer able to "float."

So I loosened the 13mm bolts and snugged them up so I still had a "floating" caliper and took the car out for a test drive. This time they were fine - no hotter than the fronts, perhaps even cooler. I will buy some new pins, and the rubber bellows that fits over the pin protruding from the caliper and see if they are similarly sensitive to being tightened. I do not recall this problem on any other cars with floating calipers, and don't have the problem at the front.

Anyone experience anything similar?

Thanks,

Jim
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