Lift gate lock not working - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Nov 2017
Vehicle: 2009 ML350 4matic: VIN 4JGBB86E59A491091
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Lift gate lock not working

Good afternoon everyone. Had my rear hatch painted two weeks ago and when I picked it up, I was unable to open the lift gate using the FOB, the driver's side door electronic latch or the lift gate handle. I CAN hear the motor running but it is not flipping the latch open and at the end of the motor trying to open the hatch, it finally completes and pulls the hatch tight.

I eventually crawled into the back, removed the little panel at the bottom middle interior of the lift gate and manually opened the hatch. I then fiddled with manually opening/closing the latch with a screwdriver and the manual pull on the inside of the gate. I then closed the gate and everything worked great... for 3 weeks. Just got back from grocery shopping and gate won't open with any e-method so crawled back again and opened manually. No such luck with "fiddling" this time so trying to determine what my issue is before making purchases to repair.

To clarify, using any e-method to open, I hear the motor start, I hear a small click and then at the end, the hatch pulls itself tightly shut. With this info, would you say it definitely is my actuator? If so, any rec on where to buy? I'm getting $276 from local BM dealer that discounts 20%. I see Amazon prices of $150.

Would appreciate if someone would confirm part number for me also. I am seeing conflicting thoughts on this.

VIN: 4JGBB86E59A491091

Thanks! WD
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 08:24 AM
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Did the auto body shop remove the tailgate to repair it?
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 43sqd View Post
Did the auto body shop remove the tailgate to repair it?
No they did not. They only taped off the top of the liftgate where I had gouged the pain when hauling a piece of Hardi Board plywood w/o fully protecting the paint with my blanket.

So I was finally able to remove the lower trim and then the back panel of the lift gate. PIA but with only few yellow buttons destroyed. My real issue is determining the correct locking actuator. I did call Mercedes and they stated that the original part # was 211-740-02-35 but that a replacement part was issued when the failure rate on these units was unacceptable. Their website now indicates that 164-740-05-00 is the correct replacement part. Unfortunately there was never a recall on these units to replace them for free!
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 02:00 AM
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The original part 211 740 is correct, but I cannot bring up the new 164 740 number.

You will have to believe them and get it from the dealer.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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So don't you know it, after I removed the trim panel and the main panel from the gate, a day later the door magically starts working again. Still going to replace the actuator since this is the 2nd time it stopped/started working. Looking fwd to taking it apart to see what seems to be its major malfunction inside of the unit.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Real help now needed. Received new actuator. Removed old actuator and installed new. Does not fix the problem. :-( With the hatch open, I press the close button and the hatch closes and locks. I wait a few seconds, then hit the open button and hear the pump powering the struts to push the door out and open but the actuator is not unlocking and allowing the door to go up.

Where do I go from here? The power connection that plugs into the actuator has eight wires and 10 pins. I am thinking that when the door closes, the actuator latch manually flips closed due to physical force of door shutting and the only electronics in the actuator happen when the latch needs to rotate to an open position.

With the actuator uninstalled in my hand and the door manually pulled shut, I used my key fob to open the door. You would expect the lock in the actuator to flip open but this does not occur.

My forte unfortunately is not in electronics or electrical connections.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quick update. There is definitely power going to the actuator. While holding the uninstalled actuator in my hand, I can hear whirling noises in the actuator When I hit the open button on the key fob. It simply is not twirling the latch to the open position. Could it be that I have a defective new part? I bought this on eBay.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 02:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayaboveme View Post
Could it be that I have a defective new part? I bought this on eBay.

Anything from ebay is possibly defective.

Does your old motor do the same when holding it in your hand?
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Success at last! Turns out the lock actuator I ordered off eBay was indeed defective and it took a leap of faith for me to find out. I bit the bullet and purchased a unit directly from MB (non-returnable!) 5 miles from home from their discounted website. $272 including tax vs. the $85 I paid to the crook on eBay. A friendly tech popped around and supervised as I unplugged the original actuator that I had re-installed and plugged in the new OEM part. Bang! Lock now twirls open easily. He also checked the SAM stating no leaking down there as far as he could tell.

I then treated myself to some sushi and a Jack & Ginger for a Pain in the Ass day finally being over.

43sqd - thank you for taking the time to answer my post and help keep me on track.

Will
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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Rains it pours sometimes. The new lock actuator works fine but... when I press the button to close the door automatically, half-way down it beeps and goes back up. My visual inspection says there are no sensors like you have for a garage door that senses an obstruction with a laser so I'm guessing that the SAM measures the force needed to pull the door down as defined by the pump and its struts located under the roof AND the struts that are on either side of the hatch window. When I give a wee bit of help to the gate as it comes down, it does not hesitate and goes directly to the close position. So I've now ordered some new struts from Parts Geek at $70/per. Retail on these suckers are in excess of $225! With a free return policy, I'll take a chance on these after market items and see if they work.
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