I replaced the entire ABS unit by purchasing 1 from eBay. The previous one had a bad pump. Now I am getting the following error:
1. ABS/BAS/ETS light is still on
2. Parking brake light is still on even when you disengage the parking brake
3. Radio is refusing to recognize the code
I have seen a post here that refers to a parking brake showing a similar behavior until the ABS was reset. But then I have seen videos on the youtube that do not require any resets at all. The unit was installed by a mechanic and later I found out he had no way or knowledge on how to reset the ABS light.
Do I need to get this unit reprogrammed or would buying an OBD2 Scanner with ABS reset capabilities solve the problem?
I replaced the entire ABS unit by purchasing 1 from eBay. The previous one had a bad pump. Now I am getting the following error:
1. ABS/BAS/ETS light is still on
2. Parking brake light is still on even when you disengage the parking brake
3. Radio is refusing to recognize the code
I have seen a post here that refers to a parking brake showing a similar behavior until the ABS was reset. But then I have seen videos on the youtube that do not require any resets at all. The unit was installed by a mechanic and later I found out he had no way or knowledge on how to reset the ABS light.
Do I need to get this unit reprogrammed or would buying an OBD2 Scanner with ABS reset capabilities solve the problem?
If "your mechanic" doesn't know how to turn the steering wheel all the way to the right and to the left a couple of times, he's NOT a mechanic.
Respectfully, BUYER BEWARE...... :wtf:
@khomer2 - I tried moving all the way right then moving all the way left a couple of times myself.. even drove it around the neighborhood the lights didn't go off. I wonder if
1. There is air in the brake lines because I have to push all the way down to make the brakes work.
2. If he damaged the ABS cable connecter while removing the old unit.
If you can, get your money back and run away. It sounds like he didnt even bleed your brake system (at all) piecing it back together.
Find a reputable MB indie to repair it if you are unable to DIY.
Optionally, if you have, or can borrow a scanner, scan for codes and post here.
Getting back to your original post,
You need to provide the complete history as to what transpired prior to these issues.
I reading your post, I;m getting the feeling you are leaving details out as to how this all transpired.
Brake lights on could the the brake switch (located on the DS under the dash above the brake pedal)
Radio code not working - why did you have to input the radio code? (only reason is your battery was disconnected for service or other or radio was removed) /how many times have you attempted to input the radio code? /Are you sure it's the correct radio code?
1. There is no history issue. The original ABS pump failure issue had surfaced a couple of years ago. But my indie mercedes mechanic refused to put a used or rebuilt one at that time. I didn't drive it as much afterwards until now I thought about getting it fixed. But now of course dealership sells only rebuilt parts and that too for $1500 + labor.
2. Brake switch works fine as the rear brake lights turn on fine.
3. Radio code is required because battery was disconnected to work on the car. Now if I punch in the code, a couple of times it rejects it and then the third time it shows "WAIT" message for as long as the car is running and then gives up and goes back to asking for code again. Sometimes after the car is started it shows "WAIT" and then asks for code again.
Now the brakes go all the way down. Before they were working fine. It seems like when this guy replaced the ABS unit something went amiss. Now even the parking brake sign and the beep doesn't go away.
Well you can't compress fluid (brake pedal when pressed all the way down). It's got to go somewhere. On your brake booster, carefully pull the vacuum hose and look inside to see if it's clean and dry. Just checking to see if your MC has a leak.
Piece that was replaced has no electronics. It is set of valves and pump. Control unit is in the fuse box.
Until codes are retrieved and cleared warnings will stay on.
Brake light switch has to sets of contacts NC and NO. Control unit looks for toggle of two values. If both are on or both are off signal is not plausible.
Pedal going to the floor is caused by air in the system, external leak or failed master cylinder. Since problem started after replacement bleeding need to be repeated.
Finally managed to get ABS codes using an Innova 3130 scanner
I did a full rebleed of the brake oil and finally managed to get ABS codes using an Innova 3130 lat+ (e/f) scanner. Below is the list of codes I got.
- C1314-004 (Component A7/3 (Traction Hydraulic Unit) Test Voltage Supply of Solenoid Valves)
- C1210-000 Unknown Fault Code
- C1401-016 A7/3m1 (High Pressure And Return Pump)
- C1022-000 Fault in CAN Communication with Control Unit N3/10(ME-SFI[ME] Control Unit)
- C1032-000 Fault in CAN Communication with Control Unit Instrument Cluster
- C1030-000 Open Circuit in CAN Link To Control Unit N78 (Transfer Case Control Module)
- C1024-001 Fault in CAN Communication With Control Unit ETC
- C1140-008 N49 (Steering Angle Sensor)
I tried clearing all the codes but they keep on coming back.
Can someone please guide me how to tackle these? Are they all related to some bad harness or relay or did I just get scammed on eBay? I have tried searching by Googling these codes and I see very little information that is useful.
I did a full rebleed of the brake oil and finally managed to get ABS codes using an Innova 3130 lat+ (e/f) scanner. Below is the list of codes I got.
- C1314-004 (Component A7/3 (Traction Hydraulic Unit) Test Voltage Supply of Solenoid Valves)
- C1210-000 Unknown Fault Code
- C1401-016 A7/3m1 (High Pressure And Return Pump)
- C1022-000 Fault in CAN Communication with Control Unit N3/10(ME-SFI[ME] Control Unit)
- C1032-000 Fault in CAN Communication with Control Unit Instrument Cluster
- C1030-000 Open Circuit in CAN Link To Control Unit N78 (Transfer Case Control Module)
- C1024-001 Fault in CAN Communication With Control Unit ETC
- C1140-008 N49 (Steering Angle Sensor)
I tried clearing all the codes but they keep on coming back.
Can someone please guide me how to tackle these? Are they all related to some bad harness or relay or did I just get scammed on eBay? I have tried searching by Googling these codes and I see very little information that is useful.
Remove left headlight. Check ground point W9. That's where pump, valves and control module get grounded.
Check fuse f27 with volt meter. Remove relay k25. Make to jumpers with spade connectors. Connect them to terminal 30 and 87. No arcing at the fuse box terminals. Very briefly connect two together. Pump needs to run.
@art_arev Hmm.. I got a rebuilt Module/Pump unit. From your suggestion, it seems like the pump I got is a bad one then. That is what was broken in my old unit too and I was trying to avoid opening it up and rebuild myself. The annoying thing after installing the new unit is that now parking light stays on and it beeps while driving. At least with the older one that was not the issue.
C1401 is an indicator of bad brushes.
All the CAN codes are most probably related to the C1401/bad brushes.
The only other "standalone" code I see is the brake fluid level sensor. But again start with the brushes or return the motor & get a replacement.
@Witek_M Thank you for your response. I have never tested the ground point and or jumped any terminals with the spade connectors. Are there any instructions some place?
@Witek_M Figured out. It was the relay. So now it has come down to the ABS pump connector. Need to check if something went wrong with that during the installation.
@Witek_M Sorry I meant it was not the relay. Relay is fine. I couldn't run the motor. That is why now I am down to the connector and wire that goes into the motor.
The reason I am saying connector is because the mechanic I was working with may have damaged it while disconnecting the old pump. The old pump had gone bad too. But the delta this time is that parking brake beep is on even after taking the parking brake off. Which means unless the new pump has introduced some error, it might be the connector or the wire.
Didn't you read post#18?
There could be 2 possibilities. You have C1401 which points at brushes.
The other option could be a dry joint in the electrohydraulic part of the pump. It's not the connector it is where the connector fits. Ate is the manufacturer of the electronic board & they are famous for using bad quality solder. The electronic part should be removed, opened. The board is covered by a gel. Gel needs to come out & one needs to resolder the dry joints. It is normally on the + line coming from the relay.
My money is on the brushes.
Remove just the motor & check & replace the brushes if needed.
@Witek_M Yes, I have read #18. But the entire unit is a rebuilt one. After inspecting today, I found that cover of the connector that connects to the MCU was broken by the mechanic and I see some blue plastic kind of covering visible. Could that cause this issue possibly? If not then it is definitely the bad unit that I will need to return.
On a side note, for now I removed the fuse to disable the parking brake beep issue.
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