98 ml320 problems - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-30-2009, 01:36 AM Thread Starter
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98 ml320 problems

Hi, I got a 98 ML320 and I have following problems.

problem 1:
SOmetimes when I turn the key the starter does not crank, sometimes it does.

problem 2:
After driving a while 'BRAKE' light comes on on the instrument cluster and transmission gets stuck in second gear. It feels like
its a fail safe mechanism to prevent you from going fast. What causes BRAKE light to come on? and why does it affect the transmission? If I shut down the engine and restart then it works fine.
problem 3:
AC is blowing hot air from all vents.

problem 4:
Power locks make ticking sound from driver door and unlocks and then
locks by itself all four doors.


Please help soon.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-30-2009, 02:59 AM
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Problem #1-WITH THE KEY REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION,remove and clean both battery cable ends and battery posts. LEAVE CABLES DISCONNECTED Then clean the multiple ground connections on the firewall directly above the battery, then reconnect. Then remove and clean the cables on the starter then reconnect. Then reconnect both battery cables. If this process does not correct the problem you may have a faulty starter or ignition switch problem.

Problem #2-Your owner's manual will inform you of the possibilities of this light coming on. Low brake fluid, electronic brake proportioning system, or a possible faulty parking brake switch.

Problem #3-Either your A/C system has leaked out all of the refrigerant or you have a blend air door problem, which is very typical on these trucks. Turn on the A/C and then look at the compressor and determine if the clutch is engaging. If it is working then you have a blend door problem. If it is not then you are low on refrigerant. https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163...hind-dash.html

Problem #4-Another typical problem with these trucks, you will need to replace the door lock actuator for that door.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf R&I Lock Actuator #1.pdf (1.38 MB, 203 views)
File Type: pdf R&I Lock Actuator #2.pdf (1.30 MB, 173 views)
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-30-2009, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. What is electronic brake proportioning?
And why would brake light coming on
Cause the transmission to go to crawl mode?
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-30-2009, 02:19 PM
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99 ML320 here and I have the same problem with the doors. My question is.

I have a right hand drive (UK spec) in the Caribbean, ML320. If I buy the door actuators from the US will they be fine ? Or do I need to get the actuators from a right hand spec market ?
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-30-2009, 03:44 PM
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The other replies to your post gave you some specific advice, and you need to post whether or not you have gone further based on that, or if you are still conteplating the original problems.

The connet on checking your connections and gronds is spot on for a '99, and I would comment that sometimes a intermintent crank can be a warning of bad connection or rapidly-failing-about-to-go-dead battery. So I would advise cleaning the connections (sionce the battery will be disconnected check the forum for the resetting instructiion for radio/code-steering sensor-and auxiliary windows/sunroof/seats)before you disconnect. On the possible failing batterty, only you know what condition that battery is in/how long since the last replacement.

fOn your "brake" indicator" try to remember when that comes on, like after you push on the brakes ? Strong personal suspicion that could be the brake light switch, although normally that switch failure commonly triggers other dash insicators as well. A delaer replacement switch is $25 and a 10 min EZ DIY - but that does not mean not following the other prior advice including basic checking the brake fluid.

Let the board now what you are doing on the existing detailed advice, and the contributing memebers here will do the best they can do to help !
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-30-2009, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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I cleanef the battery connectors and checked the voltage
Which is hood. It did not get rid of
Starter failure.
i am concentrating on brake light now.
Brake light comes on after driving a while.
Approximatelly in fifteen minutes. And iit puts tranny
In the crawl mode. Shutting down the engine
And starting it gives me another fifteen minutes
Of deiving.
i talked to aservice advisor today and he said
Brake light coming on and tranny in crawl
Mode are two separate prpblem. But i dont
Think so. I think brake light comes on because
Some sensor is failing and tranny gets
In safe mode to prevent you from goin
Fas
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-30-2009, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenG View Post
99 ML320 here and I have the same problem with the doors. My question is.

I have a right hand drive (UK spec) in the Caribbean, ML320. If I buy the door actuators from the US will they be fine ? Or do I need to get the actuators from a right hand spec market ?
Rear actuators are same. Front are different for left or right hand drive.

1972 280SEL 4.5
1999 ML320
2000 E320
2003 ML350
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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today I took out the instrument panel and light bulbs behind abs, bas and esp
were out. once I put those bulbs in there ABS stays lit. so it means abs sensors need to be changed right?
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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ok, I am getting the code p0500. vehicle speed sensor.
I am going to replace it soon.

I pumped some freon into the ac system but still blowing hot air.
where is that dual gate located can I get to it easily so I can change it myself?

please point me to a link on how to change vehicle speed sensor and
ac gate.
thanks
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 01:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masurati View Post
today I took out the instrument panel and light bulbs behind abs, bas and esp
were out. once I put those bulbs in there ABS stays lit...
Hey Masurati,

Sorry to hear about your continuing problem(s).

When you say the ABS, BAS/ESP bulbs were 'out' did you mean there were no bulbs in there or the bulbs were there but had blown out?

If the bulbs had been removed it sounds like some dealer/mechanic (probably before you bought the truck) has had a tough time fixing your truck and decided to take a 'shortcut'.

Hope it all gets sorted out soon.
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