DIY - Fuel pump remove & install - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-03-2008, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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DIY - Fuel Pump, Remove & Install

INSTRUCTIONS FOR REPLACING THE FUEL PUMP

1) Remove flaps of the rear seats. See the first picture for location of access site.
2) Remove rear seat bottom covers. There are no screws, just tabs. Releasing the tabs is the most challenging step. You can easily brake the tabs. See detailed instructions in pdf about this. See picture for under surface of the cover.
3) Unscrew rear seats. There are two hex nuts and several torx bolts. Disconnect the SRS cables; one for each seat.
4) First, remove 40% seat (rear passenger side) from the car.
5) 60% seat is very heavy. Just slide it to the location of 40% seat so that you can work on the driver side.
6) Fold the floor mat (driver side corner) and you will see the a round cap covering the access hole. Cap is attached to the body by sealant only.
7) Remove the seal and lift the cap. You will see top of the fuel pump. Take a picture to document the alignment of the pump connections. See picture
8) Unplug the cable which is power line to the pump.
9) Start engine and wait 5-10 seconds until engine runs out of fuel and stalls.
10) Disconnect the fuel lines. Push the line, press the tabs on each side with your fingers and remove it.
Caution: The fuel line in the center (feeding line) is still pressurized from the fuel filter which stores almost 1/2 quart of remaining fuel. Collect the fuel into a cup immediately after disconnecting the line. Fuel will come from the line, not from the pump. There will be some fuel spill, so place towels around. This will minimize inhalation of the fuel vapor.
11) Turn the locking ring of the pump counterclockwise and remove it.
12) Lift the fuel pump. It won't come straight up because of the fuel sensor floating arm and secondary intake line (tail-like extension tube). Tilting and turning will be enough.
Caution: There is some fuel inside the pump reservoir (the bottom pan). Tilting the pump more than 45 degrees may cause fuel spill.
Caution: Be careful not to drop anything inside the tank at this point.
13) Carefully insert the new fuel pump. Check the alignment of the fuel lines and make sure it is same as the original.
Caution: Wrong alignment of the pump may prevent fuel sensor floating arm to be lifted completely when the tank is full. Therefore the fuel gauge will never show full tank.
14) Make sure that the rubber gasket has a tight fit between the pump and the tank. Otherwise it may cause a leak when tank is full.
15) Put the the locking ring over the pump and draw a line with a pen (mark initial position).
16) Turn the locking ring clockwise for at least 360 degrees (one full turn). If you have the specific MB tool to remove&install the locking ring, the specification is 65Nm. If you don't have the specific tool, make sure it is tight enough or one full turn. Otherwise it may cause a leak when tank is full.
17) Snap the fuel lines in place. Refer to the picture to confirm the feed line which plugs into the center. Plug-in the power cable.
18) Start the engine.
19) Use body sealant to seal the cap. See picture
20) Install everything in reverse order. Do not forget to connect the SRS cable. Use Loctite for the seat nuts and bolts (40 Nm).

Warning:
- There is risk of explosion by fuel igniting and risk of poisoning by inhaling vapor, eye or skin contact with fuel.
- In order to minimize fuel spill, have minimum amount of fuel in the tank during the procedure.
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Last edited by Merzatt; 02-10-2009 at 05:16 PM.
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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-03-2008, 08:24 PM
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The procedure lacks detail how to install the gasket. I put the pump in with the gasket on it and the tank rim folded it, what wasn't visible till I fill her up.
Finally I installed it with gasket slided over the float arm, then when float was inside the tank, I put the gasket in the hole and than put the pump all the way in.
Some members reported being able to remove the pump with folding the seats and not removing them.

Last edited by Kajtek1; 08-03-2008 at 08:27 PM.
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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-03-2008, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kajtek1 View Post
The procedure lacks detail how to install the gasket. I put the pump in with the gasket on it and the tank rim folded it, what wasn't visible till I fill her up.
Finally I installed it with gasket slided over the float arm, then when float was inside the tank, I put the gasket in the hole and than put the pump all the way in.
Some members reported being able to remove the pump with folding the seats and not removing them.
Yes, you can put the gasket to the tank first and then slide the pump inside. However, there is the risk of pushing the gasket into the tank so take your time if you prefer this. If I get into the slightest details, it might be confusing more than being helpful. I thought most forum members here should be able to judge positioning of a gasket.

I tried folding seats forward but they would not stay. Those forum members never posted how to do this. Besides I don't think there will be enough space to work. So I decided to remove 40% seat out and slide the 60% sideways.
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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2008, 12:01 AM
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Great post Merzatt, really. Your previous post on the subject .and this one will surely help
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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2008, 05:18 AM
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Excellent post Merzatt!. thanks
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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-04-2008, 11:19 AM
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Excellent DIY. Hopefully I will never have to change mine but with 120K on the ODO it could happen at any moment. This needs to be bookmarked for everyone to use. Again, thanks for the write up and the pictures. You make it seem like not such a big deal. Too bad you haven't done a write up on the fuel filter retrofit.
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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-09-2008, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PlanoML View Post
Excellent DIY. Hopefully I will never have to change mine but with 120K on the ODO it could happen at any moment. This needs to be bookmarked for everyone to use. Again, thanks for the write up and the pictures. You make it seem like not such a big deal. Too bad you haven't done a write up on the fuel filter retrofit.
I didn't have to do fuel lines upgrade. But, it shouldn't be too difficult to upgrade the fuel filter and lines together with the fuel pump, as long as you have skinny hands to reach the filter as seen in the picture, it is a bit hiding behind the body.

Most people report trouble with disconnecting the fuel lines. If you cannot do it by hands, you can buy Klann Fuel Line Pliers Mercedes M-Class online for $59
163 589 00 37 00
.

Once you opened the access cover to the fuel pump, feel free to do the upgrade by looking at the diagram and actual picture from my car below. Remember that the feed line is pressurized with fuel. Expect some fuel leak if you are disconnecting this end first.

Remember to start the engine and check the system for leaks when you are done. Hope this was helpful.
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Last edited by Merzatt; 08-09-2008 at 08:22 AM.
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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-11-2008, 04:35 PM
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Thanks for the fuel filter replacement information. Do you have to remove the seat and pull back the carpeting to access the top of the fuel pump to replace the fuel line during the filter change or can you access them from the wheel well? Thanks again.
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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-11-2008, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PlanoML View Post
Thanks for the fuel filter replacement information. Do you have to remove the seat and pull back the carpeting to access the top of the fuel pump to replace the fuel line during the filter change or can you access them from the wheel well? Thanks again.
Plano, unfortunately you cannot access the fuel pump from the wheel well. But there is nothing tricky about this job unless you are replacing the pump. It just takes time and patience to reach the access cap.
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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-12-2008, 08:09 AM
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On my '98 ML320, on the bottom of rear seats, there are no plastic covers (as discussed above). MB didn't put those covers on 98 MY or they are missing on my truck?
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