BAS ETS ESP ABS Lights...Help?
I know the light problem has been dealt with on this site in different ways, but I am not sure if my problem is similar...but her goes my story.
2001 ML 320...around 4 months ago, transmission would not shift from park so I manually over rode it (pen in shifter hole) And that seemed to be fine...Took it into repair, but the problem dissapeared
Then, a short time later ( Few weeks) The far left lights started to come on intermittantly BAS/ETS ESP ABS then sometimes Check engine.stay on for a bit, then go out.Problem came to be staying on more and more. Finally was on most of time. the codes indicated, among other things, a faulty brake switch, which cleared after the switch was replaced. Lights went out. However, codes would be cleared on the diagnostic, then come back on immediately. this was performed a number of times. Different diagnostic used, from Snap on with rep there. Still can't clear.
ML sent to Mercedes dealer.on the drive, over all lights go out and everything is operating fine. Traction assist, Antilock, everything AOK. They keep it over night, tech drives it home with diagnostic tool to wait for lights to go on again so he can put the Mercedes Diag computer on it. Dosn't happen. I get it back. Is perfect, for 40 miles on highway. Slow down to stop. Lights come on again. Turn off, turn on, Turn wheel lock to lock,.still on. Drive it around for then next day...Morning low speed manouvering, lights go off. Same thing...Highway speed, slow down, Lights come on.
Make appointment. That morning. Lights out. Afternoon lights on. no rhymm or reason now.
I should also mention that on 2 occassions over the past few weeks, with the lights on, the red brake warning flashing red light has beeped and come on. i shut the ML off, restart, and both times it went out, but BAS ETS ESP ans ABS remain on.
The shop guys initially think it is 2 things. Either a bad wheel sensor in the right rear (one of the fault codes says the wheel is spinning at 33, 000 RPM)
Continutiy from sensor to ABS module has been checked there, and I am told continuity is fine.
Other is the transmission module. Don't ask for ddetails, never got an explanation nor ask at this point. Want to explore least expensive issues at this point, hopefully wiothout the 100 dollar an hour charge.
I have read of a few options to explore here, Including changing the ABS relay. I should add also that a few weeks ago i also had a tranmission leak at the connector that was replaced by the dealer, and when it was checked, there was fluid in the conector that was cleaned and greased and put back together. Could this also be the source of the problem?
I think it has to do with Antilock brakes somewhere. Either relay or wheel speed sensor. Why? Because of the red brake light flashing those 2 times.
I subscribe to alldata, and there have been a couple of bullitens from Mecedes on Traction control light issues, but not specifically describing what I have.
This forum has helped me in the past, but this time I am very confounded. PLeas help, any an all sugeestions welcome.
They might have checked continuity to the control module, but I bet they did not check anything to the hydraulic unit under the washer bottle. There have been a few accounts of the electrical plugs connected to that unit have corroded because of washer fluid leaking onto it. Remove the washer bottle and give the unit under it a good once over.
Thanks...Will give this a look to see if I have any corrosion on the conector under the washer bottle.
As I mentioned, with the lights off, it runs like it always had. BTW, I have 109000 KMs on my ML (Roughly 70,000 miles)
Also do a battery cable and battery check..
I have also seen ML's do very strange things when battery cables have become loose or more often a bit corrded at the connection ..... I have seen "all warning lights" come on with battery on last legs with voltage up and downs..even some alternator problems (and there was a limited recall there)...
I would say back-to-some-basics-easier things for DIY check before surrendering to the sophisitcated and expensive...mileage seems low for some of the obtuse, but mileage and age is about right for some of the more basic tro check first...
I hope it isn't the same problem I had. Doesn't really sound like it, but maybe this will help.
It is one of the computers going out, Controller 4ESP is the part name (part# 163 545 80 32). I am looking at the old broken one on my desk right now. It cost me about $830 plus two diagnostic tests which ran the bill up to a grand.
I hope this isn't it.
This is how it went down for me. It only seems to happen on very cold mornings. I will drive and then go over a speed bump or something that slightly jolts the car. It will then cause the traction control to act (if only for a millisecond) and then the ABS ESP BAS ETS lights will all go on and not turn off. On top of this, it sounds like the ABS system is trying to run at full go and it messes a little bit with my driving before it stops and allows normal operation of the car. I took it to my repair shop, not a mercedes dealership, and they said it was the tilt sensor on the steering wheel and they cleared the code. I spoke to the dealership and the dealership said that probably wasn't it so I took it by there.
Because the codes were cleared, mercedes really couldn't tell what it was. After the codes were cleared, it ran fine. Two months later (Thursday of last week), it happens again so I take it directly to the dealer. They figure out that it is this controller and I have to get it replaced.
I hope this helps, I really hope this helps you determine that it isn't the same thing.
Hi I'm trying to find the answer to a problem we are having with our ML270 cdi 2003 in UK.
Problem first appeared in Nov/Dec last year 2007. Drove to work fine go to drive home start car get following lamp’s lit on dash: BAS/ESP, ETS, ABS (orange lamps on left) Brake (red lamp) and once car is moving a continual beeping till the car stops.
Put to MB on to diagnostics they say it the ESP/BAS control module, going cost £950 to fix however we knew that one the wires connecting to this has been chaffed by the left front plastic wheel arch liner. Try to see if there is a recall but no. Decide to park car up till can speak with workshop manager in MB on holiday. I should mention it had been exceptionally wet that week with heavy rain. So the car is parked up for a week we decide to try it no joy still lights and bells. Leave for further week and decide we will risk running it lightly over Christmas to save on hire car cost as had been told it drivable but to not horse it or else could go in to limp mode.
Was about 22nd December partner gets car takes a run picks me up from work, Lights and beeping all out car seems to be fixed had been heavy frost that week. Car has run fine since till last week (12th May 08) on the way home in transit from work and car throws same fault. Get home park up leave for 5min fault cleared switch off and hope sorted. Next morning get 1 mile down the road fault back and still current now. The only thing we are aware of we had heavy raid on the 10th May on way back from friend in remote part Scotland and had no choice but to go through surface water that went over bonnet so need less say into that wheel arch odd was wet last time too when set off but had been dry day when was driving and fault came back.
We spent Saturday last weekend re-insulating and cleaning the wires but came to no joy fault still there. Spoke to workshop manager again agreed cut out bad bit should sort and cancel fault. Did that last night (21st may). Still no joy very disheartened.
We are now thinking has water gotten into the control unit and is either throwing the fault or has it blown the circuit board or something & is the cause. We are reluctant to spend £950 to find it not that. We noticed when we cut the wiring that the copper was black and tried to find clean copper to make a better connection. We feel that may be the wiring is at fault. Has anyone else had this exact problem and what was the out come? We are desperate find a fix but a fraction of the cost if at all possible. Partner be heading to MB again tonight to speak with Workshop manager again. Incidentally we also experienced a flicker in the mileage display stopping displaying for maximum of 20 minutes but came back did again with me one morning got o end road indicated right an came back? Could all this be electrical gremlins? All suggestions and though are most welcome ASAP.
The chaffed wire, which has now become oxidized, is the culprit. When oxidation forms in a wire, it will travel in both directions, to both end sources. This will lower the conductivity of that wire, resulting in a much lower voltage reading or signal reading, whichever the case might be. The wire must be traced the full length of its' travel (in both directions) and eliminated.
But first, you must trace to where the wire goes to. It could go to any number of parts or electrical units in this system, which are many. If you can tell me where it goes to and the exact color of the wire, I might be able to tell you what its' function is.
Really appreciate the reply. You have confirmed what we though in that it was down to the wiring being oxidised/ damaged by the water getting in.
The Wire connects to the BAS unit or a black unit on the passenger side below the washer bottle this one end ends in a plug that connects to the unit Ithink it was a black plug in colour and the rest goes hangs down by about 6 inches then goes back up into the the enginee bay but where this goes we are unsure it is a thick mass of wires. The one that was chaffed was a thick brown wire about 3-6mm?? in diameter. From what we can remember off top our heads there are 2 brown and 2 red thick wires the rest are thin different coloured wires.
My partner is going to try and get back to MB again today and speak with the workshop manager and see if he can tell us how far that goes back and where too but if you have any clues they will be greatly received. Least we can rule out the Control box at £950 quid. The laugh is when they did the testing they said they checked the wiring but never said it was chaffed. so we know they never looked at it.
The Hydraulic Unit under the washer bottle has ONE large Brown wire leaving it and heads directly to the same ground point, behind the left headlight... Hope this has helped.
Thanks for that info I'll print this out as we plan on investigating it tomorrow and seeing if we get any better luck.
My partner managed to speak to an older mechanic last night at MB and he knew straight away what he was talking about and said this is very common, yet MB do no recalls!! :crybaby2:
He said the main pin (31pin) plug can be taken apart to be checked and cleaned if it is furred up and if it is moist. he said some times they need to renew the plugs and that we need to take the wire back to the good copper plus a littel extra to ensure we have good wiring. So fingers crossed this works.
I'll post again and let you all know how we get on fingers crossed this works as we are really missing our car. :eclipsee_steering:Shanks ponies only let you travel so far. :elefant:(your legs if you don't know that term ):big laugh:
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