BAS ETS ESP ABS Lights...Help? - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 05:07 AM
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Wiring Issue

Hi

well we re-did the wiring and had the head lamp out on the left hand side and stripped all the bad wiring out that was oxidized. which was the brown earthing wire.

We put it all back but still the lights and buzzer/beeping sounding. Do you know if the lights and buzzer can be canceled out by MB or only once the fault is fixed? Even for us to be able to pull the beeping sound fuse would be grand till we can get it fixed. The weird thing is the breaks are good there has been no loss of power or anything.

The module pin was clean with no furring but we still cleaned with contact cleaner.

could it be possible that the fault has been fixed but the fault code needs cleared by the dealer on the diagnostics? As the dealer did say that if we where to put in a new control module part our selves they could then code it if the fault was still showing?

I did get a work shop manual off eBay but unfortunately it won't translate into English and I DON'T speak or read German that well.

If your able to advise anything else please let me know and also if you know how to pull the plug on the beeper in the cabin for a short while as the car is still drive able short distances. It seems to sound from the top of the steering wheel around where the hazard warning switch is.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 01:34 PM
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just to update you all we managed to get a free Diagnostics done tonight on the car and the system couldn't cancel out the lights and the alarm, we are having to have the Control unit replaced £650 for the unit £300 for labor. Parts been ordered tonight. Very depressing thought. If we had know this was going to come back we would of sold the car when we had the chance no such luck now with the 4 lights and beeping going on when the cars is in motion. STEALER wins again!!
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 04:17 PM
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The brown/tan wires are ground wires and I cannot see how a lack of ground to any module would make that module non functionable. I could see if the chaffed wire was a power wire and therefore it being grounded could short out the module. But this still in my opinion seems to be a continuing lack of ground.

Did you trace the two brown wires to the rear of the engine where it splices to other ground wires and it then reverses course and heads to the left tail light?

Also, the module is located in the fuse/relay box, so how is the cost of $300 justified?
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-27-2008, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 43sqd View Post
The brown/tan wires are ground wires and I cannot see how a lack of ground to any module would make that module non functionable. I could see if the chaffed wire was a power wire and therefore it being grounded could short out the module. But this still in my opinion seems to be a continuing lack of ground.

Did you trace the two brown wires to the rear of the engine where it splices to other ground wires and it then reverses course and heads to the left tail light?

Also, the module is located in the fuse/relay box, so how is the cost of $300 justified?

Hi 43sqd

I'll pass the info on to my other half he's the one who know about cars and does all the work himself. The cost is for the BAS/ESP, ETS Control Module which I believe is the black box that the brake lines feed into. We replaced one of the lines in October 2007 from this unit all the way to the drivers side rear brake it was one complete line of copper as the original had corroded we have another one to do on the drivers side the shortest of them all. Must point this out to other half encase wants to do before this unit is put in as they will be bleeding the entire system. I can't help but wonder what the up shot is and come back would be if they replaced this unit and we still find the fault not corrected. Would we be entitled to a refund as it's there diagnostics that’s saying it this unit? Our friend in MB dealer tried to clear the faults with the system telling him what to do but it couldn't clear the faults.

Very depressing at thought the cost of it

Last edited by chealse-tractor; 05-27-2008 at 05:24 AM.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-27-2008, 05:33 AM
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If I were you I would ask for a guarantee from the service advisor as to the replacement of this module, will eliminate the problem. I wouldn't go for the explanation "well we have to replace this first module first, then go from there". If you hear that then they are guessing at the problem.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-27-2008, 06:30 AM
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Good thinking yes will do that, I don't know if knowing the service manager is a good thing or a bad thing?? The diagnostics is only saying what it is because it's getting no feed back from the unit.

If it wasn't for the lights and the buzzer you'd honestly think here was nothing wrong with the car as it still breaks good and drives well.

Last edited by chealse-tractor; 05-27-2008 at 06:32 AM.
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-30-2008, 07:11 AM
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Hi,
Thought I better post an interesting update to you all. I have been driving the car whilst we have been waiting for the part to arrive with MB however yesterday (Thursday 29th May) I had driven from work to the local supermarket approx 2miles away with the full lights as disused and the beeping on going. I come out the shop jump in the drivers seat turn on not really thinking about it glanced down...... no lights!! As in no BAS/ESP, EST, & ABS orange lights only the Brake light RED as the hand brake was still on as had already but my seat belt on.

So rather apprehensive I put it into reverse and drive home the remaining 2.5miles with batted breath. Nothing pure deafening silence.... BLISS. Wanting to show my other half call him out the house him approaching with the look of what now!! Show him the lights are out. Switch engine off wait a second restart still no light. Lock the car up and see what the story is in the morning.

Drive to work in silence stop to get milk for work silence. So now the moment will be when I go to drive home tonight. Will I get silence again or not.

We have noted with interest that it appears to be approx 14 days at Christmas when the fault cleared and it has been approx 17 days this time. So the question now is for how long? It was 5months since Christmas and the car even passed its MOT with flying colours.

I actually found a posting on the Mercedes forum I think it was where someone actually listed exactly how they fixed it them selves we are now going to do this as well if the fault throws up again as we got nothing to loss at the end of the day other then having to pay out to MB stealer for the new part. I’ll add the link about it. Be interest to see what you all make of this.

Had to copy the forun as couldn't get eh links to work but I note that if you click on the top line below that is underlined it will take you right to the forum page so you cna read the replies it's had.

Last edited by chealse-tractor; 05-30-2008 at 07:27 AM.
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-30-2008, 07:21 AM
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Couldn't get the link to work so here is the copy of the forum post

ABS and ETS lights on/ I found the problem/LONG - ShopForum

08-31-2006, 02:00 PM
jfreezn
Jim in Phoenix Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 142

ABS and ETS lights on/ I found the problem/LONG
________________________________________
This was on my 98 ML320, other vehicles may be similar.

Since these lights would come on instantly, after starting the engine, I figured I had a hard failure somewhere in the ABS/ETS system. See my previous entry on this subject of a couple days ago.

After checking the 40 amp fuse that feeds this circuit, I pulled the relay, K25, that feeds the ABS high pressure pump. I can test a relay on my workbench and it tested fine. I also noted there are at least 3 identical relays so rotating them into the ABS socket was also an option.

I had a wiring diagram that I got from the Tempe library, which has a free Mitchell repair access. It shows a red wire going from the load side of the relay to the ABS high pressure pump motor and then to ground. Putting 12VDC directly to the load slot of the socket SHOULD have run the pump, but it didn't.

Testing further, I unplugged the two pin connector which feeds the ABS pump and put 12 VDC directly to the motor. By pulling the sheath back, I was able to see the wire colors. Since brown is always ground on Mercedes, I knew to put the plus 12 VDC to the other wire, to insure the rotation was correct.

The pump ran smoothly! I needed to verify that power was reaching the pump assy.

Unplugging the 15 pin connector from the ABS pump unit was a little tricky. The sheath over the plug pulls straight up and then the sheath becomes a ramping device that pushes the connector out of it's socket. My fingers could start the motion but it took a little pliers to get enough grip to release this connector. The bottom two pins were hot and ground and fed through the housing to the 2 pin connector. With my temporary 12 VDC still connected to the relay socket, I found that 12 VDC was indeed reaching the ABS pump assy, but NOT getting through to the 2 pin connector. The problem had to be in the ABS housing somewhere.

NOTE: At this point I found it conducive to remove the driver's side headlight unit for more working room. A 5 minute task to figure out how to release the plastic trim strip under the headlight where two nuts were hidden.

The front of the ABS pump unit appeared to have a wiring acces cover and I got really lucky here as the whole actuator control and wiring came off by removing 4 small 6 point screws. It just slid off the 12 pins that seal the fluid side of the magnet assemblies, No fluid is released and I had the printed circuit board in my hand.

Checking with my VOM connected to read resistance on pin 15 to the pin on the two pin connector that feeds the motor, I found high resistance with considerable fluctuation whenever the pins were flexed a little. BAD SOLDER JOINT! Where have we heard this before? The manufacturer is ATE, a well known vendor, but who knows how many ABS pumps hit the trash can because of a simple joint failure. At $1200 each, I am glad I took the time to find this problem.

The PC side of the board was covered with a 1/4" of clear jellied sealant, easily removed with an exacto type knife. I cleaned the old joints with brake cleaner, then I soldered both pins and in minutes the unit was reassembled and tested. Zero resistance is good! I used some clear silicone to close up over the newly resoldered joints.

Suffice to say that I rejoiced when the engine started and both lights were eztinguished. Knowing that I had ABS again was a big relief too.

I took a few pictures and will try to attach them. If this file is already too big I will send a separate file. Thanks to all who took the time to reply to my pevious note.

Jim in Phoenix
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-30-2008, 01:25 PM
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Solder joints are the weakest link in many PCB's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chealse-tractor View Post
Couldn't get the link to work so here is the copy of the forum post

ABS and ETS lights on/ I found the problem/LONG - ShopForum

08-31-2006, 02:00 PM
jfreezn
Jim in Phoenix Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 142

ABS and ETS lights on/ I found the problem/LONG
________________________________________
This was on my 98 ML320, other vehicles may be similar.

Since these lights would come on instantly, after starting the engine, I figured I had a hard failure somewhere in the ABS/ETS system. See my previous entry on this subject of a couple days ago.

After checking the 40 amp fuse that feeds this circuit, I pulled the relay, K25, that feeds the ABS high pressure pump. I can test a relay on my workbench and it tested fine. I also noted there are at least 3 identical relays so rotating them into the ABS socket was also an option.

I had a wiring diagram that I got from the Tempe library, which has a free Mitchell repair access. It shows a red wire going from the load side of the relay to the ABS high pressure pump motor and then to ground. Putting 12VDC directly to the load slot of the socket SHOULD have run the pump, but it didn't.

Testing further, I unplugged the two pin connector which feeds the ABS pump and put 12 VDC directly to the motor. By pulling the sheath back, I was able to see the wire colors. Since brown is always ground on Mercedes, I knew to put the plus 12 VDC to the other wire, to insure the rotation was correct.

The pump ran smoothly! I needed to verify that power was reaching the pump assy.

Unplugging the 15 pin connector from the ABS pump unit was a little tricky. The sheath over the plug pulls straight up and then the sheath becomes a ramping device that pushes the connector out of it's socket. My fingers could start the motion but it took a little pliers to get enough grip to release this connector. The bottom two pins were hot and ground and fed through the housing to the 2 pin connector. With my temporary 12 VDC still connected to the relay socket, I found that 12 VDC was indeed reaching the ABS pump assy, but NOT getting through to the 2 pin connector. The problem had to be in the ABS housing somewhere.

NOTE: At this point I found it conducive to remove the driver's side headlight unit for more working room. A 5 minute task to figure out how to release the plastic trim strip under the headlight where two nuts were hidden.

The front of the ABS pump unit appeared to have a wiring acces cover and I got really lucky here as the whole actuator control and wiring came off by removing 4 small 6 point screws. It just slid off the 12 pins that seal the fluid side of the magnet assemblies, No fluid is released and I had the printed circuit board in my hand.

Checking with my VOM connected to read resistance on pin 15 to the pin on the two pin connector that feeds the motor, I found high resistance with considerable fluctuation whenever the pins were flexed a little. BAD SOLDER JOINT! Where have we heard this before? The manufacturer is ATE, a well known vendor, but who knows how many ABS pumps hit the trash can because of a simple joint failure. At $1200 each, I am glad I took the time to find this problem.

The PC side of the board was covered with a 1/4" of clear jellied sealant, easily removed with an exacto type knife. I cleaned the old joints with brake cleaner, then I soldered both pins and in minutes the unit was reassembled and tested. Zero resistance is good! I used some clear silicone to close up over the newly resoldered joints.

Suffice to say that I rejoiced when the engine started and both lights were eztinguished. Knowing that I had ABS again was a big relief too.

I took a few pictures and will try to attach them. If this file is already too big I will send a separate file. Thanks to all who took the time to reply to my pevious note.

Jim in Phoenix
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-06-2008, 01:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlfun View Post
Solder joints are the weakest link in many PCB's.
Unfirtunalty MB have upgrader the box since the 2000 car and the box we ahve is sealed shut and the box can not be opened with a knoife as was detailed in the info i listed.

We did however find heavey corrosion once we got the 3rd screm off which araing had a revised told head on and not a cross headed screw. We had 3 5mm start bolts the bottom one had ceased solid and we ended up having to cut the head off. I took photos of the par and the curosion and will try and up link them once I can get my laptop back on line.

We have had to get the part from the dealer and are going to fit it outselves this weekend that alone cost us £759.00 UK Stirling Pounds!! Hope this fixes it. i would suggest fold to wipe vasaline around theres just to help keep water out and help prevent there unit going the same way. As well as around you car horns as these corroded away on ours and we had to replace them for £15.00. Vasaline acts as a water barier.

At present the car haas corrected it self again as it did last Thurs/Fri lasted 22hrs. So far I am close to 48hrs now this time with silcene once more. As I will be washing the car to day I expect it will be back!!
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