COFIN OR COMPUTER ECUS BOX - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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COFIN OR COMPUTER ECUS BOX

Hello Guys,

I have been very busy but I start to see some light.

With some help of two forum members I realized my harness was cracked,so we were able to take out the engine harness,the lower harness and the maf harness and now they are with an expert that is going to reburbish them.

As I dindt took the whole maf wires completely until the ecu connectors,I was so afraid to go further that I just cut and marked them when the bundle of wires,still cracked go under the cofin box,so this part is unkown for me.Can anybody share pictures ,tricks and procedure to reach the connectors inside the cofin box ?.Do I need any special tool to pull out the old connectors?,the new maf harness is going to arrive not only with new wires but new connectors too.

I am so close to not worry about this problem that I cant belive it.

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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-23-2018, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Guys as this time I didnt get nay help from this forum I went to a scrapyard to practise,I was very lucky and there was a w140 gasoline car with the ecu complete and you know what ,the harness were cracked.

I recorded two videos , the language is spanish but I show the bolts,their position ,the order you should unscrew them ,wich wrench you should use and the procedure.one of these days I will include the links to youtube here,to help other members in the future.

I almost have done putting my new wires back,with some help of some spanishs friends of this forum everything will be done by tomorrow.

I just need some help with this part,as I took it apart almost 2 months ago I am not very sure about his position,can anybody help me?

Before connect the lower harness to the batery and the conector close to the batery one I want to be sure about how to install the metal shield that avoids the heat of the
exhaust pipe covering the harness,all the members that have replace their lower harness know what I am talking about.

Thanks in advance for your help.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-01-2018, 08:47 AM
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I believe that is the heat shield that covers the connection to the firewall where you attach the 12 volt power cable and twist lock cannon plug.
I just rebuilt my lower harness and it sure looks familiar. Have a look under the car and check. There is a LOT of heat generated down there and that shield is your friend.

Edit: It is the heat shield that protects the connection to the firewall. See image. Those are two small aluminum nuts that hold the shield in place.

En Espaniol (via Google translate, desculpe)

Creo que es el escudo térmico que cubre la conexión al cortafuegos donde se conecta el cable de alimentación de 12 voltios y el canon de cierre.
Acabo de reconstruir mi arnés inferior y seguro me parece familiar. Eche un vistazo debajo del automóvil y revise. Hay MUCHO calor generado allí y ese escudo es tu amigo.

Editar: es el escudo térmico que protege la conexión al cortafuegos. Ver imagen. Esas son dos pequeñas tuercas de aluminio que mantienen el escudo en su lugar.


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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your help Pete,its the problem of taking apart some parts and take 1 month a half to put them back.It doesnt matter the number of pictures you take ,something is going to be missed when you get your harnesess refurbished.

The protector is in place now.

Now I just have to plug my 8 new maf concectors to the 2 ecus using this tool,I have been practising with one I took from the scarpyard and I think I command doing this with 80% of the wires,I dont know the reason but with the balance on 20% the tool dont reach the point to release the old connector(first picture vs picture 2 the position to not have the old connector released )and I am terrified to find this problems in those pins,have anybody any interesting tips on this matter to share?

MAF sensors

#2 green
#4 blue



Blue connector

34,37,23,17 terminals

Green connector


34,37,23,17 terminals

this is the info for the tool.

Código Farnell Cant. pedida Ref. fabricante Fabricante / Descripción
1328895
1 1-1579007-6
TE CONNECTIVITY 1-1579007-6 Herramienta de Extracción, Contactos Junior Power Timer (JPT), SPT, Tabulares 2,8mm/4,8mm/5,8mm
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 12:28 PM
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They are tricky to remove. I made my own tool but that looks professional. It just takes patience, commitment and perseverance. Someone with more experience can likely chime in.

Pete

Son difíciles de eliminar. Hice mi propia herramienta, pero parece profesional. Solo requiere paciencia, compromiso y perseverancia.
Alguien con más experiencia puede sonar.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 01:09 PM
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Once you move the pin lock, you have to push the tool hard. You will have to wiggle the tool, and push/pull on the wires. Even if you mess up the retainer, the pin lock will still hold them in place when it's reengaged. I found that pins in one connector shell came out easily, while another was really difficult.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 01:16 PM
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Frankly, I'd just cut the old wires about an inch from the pins, solder the new wires to the stubs, and use heatshrink to cover the joint. Faster, and less likely to screwup. In my case, I had to replace a couple of connector shells, because a previous mechanic had managed to break them. I had no choice.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 01:25 PM
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Those Pins are tricky. Just like Jon said it is just wiser to cut them about an inch from the connector.

If the insulation is all gone, just solder to the bare wire, and heat-shrink over the bare wire plus the solder joint. I do two coverage's of shrink tubing, so no chance of a future short.

One has to be determined to fix the car. It is what it takes to keep these cars rolling...

Martin
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 01:42 PM
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Jaimonides,

I now have to know what the make of that tool is and a part number if it has one. Looks the business!

Gracias,
Pete
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your comments guys, here you are the link to the tool and all the info,it cost me around 46 euros.

1-1579007-6 TE CONNECTIVITY, Extraction Tool, Junior Power Timer (JPT), SPT

I Will try to install the new wires and connectors using the tool to extract the old ones ,but of course before break anything I Will cut the old wires and solder the new ones,is going to be like play roulette,I just need to be lucky with 34,37,23,17 terminals.

Just comment the state of the wires inside the cofin is very good,I have seen they have a hose that cool the interior of this aluminium box and wires inside are very well isolated from the engine

Another advice ,if anybody is planning to do this,please avoid the summertime ,you cant imagine how I have sweated during this reparation.


Jaime
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