Button broke - Mercedes-Benz Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
BenzWorld Extremist
 
Tbilisi79's Avatar
 
Date registered: Oct 2005
Vehicle: 420SEL
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,132
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Send a message via Yahoo to Tbilisi79
(Thread Starter)
Button broke

Guys one of the window buttons fell in. What do I do ?? Can it be fixed easy?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tbilisi79 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 02:10 PM
Moderator
 
ianrandom's Avatar
 
Date registered: Jul 2008
Vehicle: 1986/1990 W126
Location: Berkshire & Devon, UK
Posts: 13,047
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Quoted: 1202 Post(s)
Lifetime Premium Member
Gnope 🙂 Maybe..

'86 420SE
'90 420SEC


Daily transport 9spd Giant DH Comp downhill bike
ianrandom is online now  
post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 02:20 PM
CH4S Artist
Outstanding Contributor
 
Teutone's Avatar
 
Date registered: Sep 2004
Vehicle: 1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
Location: Los Angeles / Hannover Germany
Posts: 38,850
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Quoted: 1895 Post(s)
Lifetime Premium Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbilisi79 View Post
Guys one of the window buttons fell in. What do I do ?? Can it be fixed easy?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
One of the 2 inner tabs, where the top and bottom of the switch click in will have broken off from the plastic the whole shifter wood panel sits on.
If you look at the picture below, the front and center tabs on the bottom of the shifter wood hook in. In order to get the wood out without damaging the 4 bottom hook tabs, you need to move the piece slightly back while moving the rear just enough up to clear the rear lip of the console (see pic).
Press the tabs on the narrow part of the switch from underneath the panel, and the switch can be pushed to come out. Attempts to just remove the switch from top, can breaks the second switch tab as well (don't ask how I know). Pulling off the plugged together bottom part of the switches while the the tabs are still locked can cause damage as well. Careful not to pull the black fibre optic cable out of the switch and don't pull too hard on the wires as well.
If I remember correctly, the switches (depending on year), come one by one separate incl child safety, or each side in a one piece block of front, child safety, and rear window together. A good way to re install is to hold the bottom part from below the wood at or a bit above the opening, plug in the top part from above, and gently lower the switch down through the opening until the tabs click in.


The first tabs I broke happened when a contact in the switch was dirty, and I was pushing too hard. Contact cleaner can help.
There is a thread here somewhere by Chadahar aka Charlie how to take a switch apart, clean, and re assemble. He managed to make dead window switches, no up or down function, work like new. To disassemble a switch, its advisable to have both hands in a large ziplock bag, to not loose tiny bearings and springs.
You can try to use a heavy duty glue like epoxy to fashion and attach a new tab. Looking at the pic, the tabs are recessed and if gluing can be done, one side will sit lower.
I recommend finding the same year / switch arrangement shifter surround (there are several different ones), and swap the plastic frame below the wood.
The plastic is fastened by what looks like small wood staples, and can probably glued on as well.

In retrospect, i could have made it easier on myself by just directing you to the link for the W126 service manual in the stickies on top.
Yeah, the stickies few here bother to check. I think disc A is all diesel, B all gasoline versions.

A bit distant for you and for those who want to restore, Igor in San Diego does good work (wood trim restoration San Diego), and is less pricey that Madera Concepts in Madera CA.
Attached Images
   

Last edited by Teutone; 06-08-2019 at 12:48 AM. Reason: missing context added
Teutone is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
BenzWorld Extremist
 
Tbilisi79's Avatar
 
Date registered: Oct 2005
Vehicle: 420SEL
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,132
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Send a message via Yahoo to Tbilisi79
(Thread Starter)
Thank very much. I think Iíll del with it this weekend. Till then. Check out who I ran into at a gas station.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tbilisi79 is online now  
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 03:38 PM
Outstanding Contributor
 
mclare's Avatar
 
Date registered: Aug 2008
Vehicle: 2012 CL550 4MATIC Coupe
Location: Washington DC area - PAX River NAS
Posts: 9,985
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Quoted: 312 Post(s)
Send a message via Yahoo to mclare Send a message via Skype™ to mclare
I have the manuals if he needs them Horst.

How have you been buddy?
mclare is offline  
post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 05:07 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
GreenT's Avatar
 
Date registered: Mar 2013
Vehicle: 1995 S500 - 1986 420SEL
Location: Floriduh
Posts: 61,120
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Quoted: 10612 Post(s)
GreenT is offline  
post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 05:49 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
GreenT's Avatar
 
Date registered: Mar 2013
Vehicle: 1995 S500 - 1986 420SEL
Location: Floriduh
Posts: 61,120
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Quoted: 10612 Post(s)
One detail not mentioned on the above video is that you have to remove the plastic bezel that goes around the shifter before removing the panel.


GreenT is offline  
post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 05:54 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
wooky_chew_bacca's Avatar
 
Date registered: Oct 2009
Vehicle: '91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
Location: Covington Ga
Posts: 8,891
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Quoted: 1282 Post(s)
Garage
I had to overhaul my switch panel, mainly because the switches were glued in by the PO and none worked. Once you get the panel out you'll see the plastic "grid" that the switches mount into and the grid is held mainly by tiny staples that work loose. Working carefully you can reuse those and glue the grid back to the wood, I used JB Quikset in a few places sparingly. I had to completely replace both the grid and all switches but it turned out well using some small clamps while the JB set up. Now there is no "springiness" when pressing and no sunk in switches
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	W S 3.JPG
Views:	3
Size:	2.12 MB
ID:	2519330   Click image for larger version

Name:	W S 4.JPG
Views:	4
Size:	2.56 MB
ID:	2519332   Click image for larger version

Name:	W S 5.JPG
Views:	3
Size:	2.01 MB
ID:	2519334   Click image for larger version

Name:	W S 6.JPG
Views:	4
Size:	2.06 MB
ID:	2519336  
isthenew likes this.
wooky_chew_bacca is offline  
post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 06:05 PM
BenzWorld Extremist
 
isthenew's Avatar
 
Date registered: Jan 2014
Vehicle: 1989 300SE 232k miles
Location: Sarasota, Florida
Posts: 995
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Quoted: 223 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by wooky_chew_bacca View Post
I had to overhaul my switch panel, mainly because the switches were glued in by the PO and none worked. Once you get the panel out you'll see the plastic "grid" that the switches mount into and the grid is held mainly by tiny staples that work loose. Working carefully you can reuse those and glue the grid back to the wood, I used JB Quikset in a few places sparingly. I had to completely replace both the grid and all switches but it turned out well using some small clamps while the JB set up. Now there is no "springiness" when pressing and no sunk in switches
The 2 rear window switches were both sunken when I got my car. I was surprised in the design for these: the use of exclusively staples to hold a plastic surround piece to the wood.. I actually took pictures and researched into whether that was accurate. It was unlike anything I experienced in the R129's. I expected the use of glue.

Needless to say, once I verified that was the way it was meant to go together, I reinstalled the plastic using the original staples (more than 1/2 of them were detached form the wood) and popped the switches back in. I'm using a light touch when activating these switches compared to my old R129's. I want to see if they were simply abused by the PO's child, or if I need to do more to solidify the mounting.
wooky_chew_bacca likes this.
isthenew is offline  
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 06:10 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
wooky_chew_bacca's Avatar
 
Date registered: Oct 2009
Vehicle: '91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
Location: Covington Ga
Posts: 8,891
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Quoted: 1282 Post(s)
Garage
Once the staples work loose they will likely do it again, if so do what you did using the staples to position the plastic an a small dab of JB at the corners and along the center run of plastic and it should hold forever
isthenew likes this.
wooky_chew_bacca is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Sedan Forums > W126 S,SE,SEC,SEL,SD,SDL Class

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Mercedes-Benz Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 

Title goes here

close
video goes here
description goes here. Read Full Story
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome