My SEC just dangerously overheated. Need help. - Page 8 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #71 of 210 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 05:56 AM
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post #72 of 210 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks.

The Aux fan sure isn't cheap.

Can't find the relay yet. When I click AC and Heating with my car I get no results. Strange.
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post #73 of 210 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 06:34 AM
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Admittedly, I have not parsed every detail of your story. But, then, these observations are helpful but not reliable. Ask your mechanic. He will probably ignore everything you tell him until he sees it for himself. One fact for sure, your car overheated.

Except for overheating that only comes at idle, standing still, warm out, car in Park, mostly a MB V8 does not need a fan at all. If your facts are that your car has not overheated when moving, spend as much as you want on the fans. Otherwise, thermostat, air pocket, radiator. In that order.
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post #74 of 210 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 09:09 AM
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I have an 85 SEC and I have an overheating issue slows around 80/90 but not long after it keeps going up to over 100 and no signs of cooling down. What pressure should the expansion cap be? I'm going to pull my radiator out and have it tested. My aux fan comes on at 85ish. I'm not sure the viscous clutch fan is working because of low heat in radiator. The reason I'm having the radiator tested is that at 100 plus it's hot in the top tank with a heat gun around 80/90 but the inside of radiator remains at 22 to 27 and the bottom not much better. There seems to be about a 40 degree difference so I think the radiator is blocked cause it shouldn't be that much?
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post #75 of 210 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 09:20 AM
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I have an 85 SEC and I have an overheating issue slows around 80/90 but not long after it keeps going up to over 100 and no signs of cooling down. What pressure should the expansion cap be? I'm going to pull my radiator out and have it tested. My aux fan comes on at 85ish. I'm not sure the viscous clutch fan is working because of low heat in radiator. The reason I'm having the radiator tested is that at 100 plus it's hot in the top tank with a heat gun around 80/90 but the inside of radiator remains at 22 to 27 and the bottom not much better. There seems to be about a 40 degree difference so I think the radiator is blocked cause it shouldn't be that much?
I hate to keep beating the same old drum, but when you remove it to test it you are going to be replacing some parts anyway and the radiator is about $200. How much testing can you do for $200?
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post #76 of 210 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 09:42 AM
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In Oz they around 500+. I'm hoping if I take it to the radiator place they can give it a better clean out then I can do.
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post #77 of 210 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 10:14 AM
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Over heating issues are not that complicated, A quick diagnostic tree.

1 verify coolant level and proper ratio of water to coolant , check belt tension on water pump.

2 verify operation of fan clutch

3 verify aux fan is functioning by running power to it directly, if it fuctions

Verify control switch on ac dryer accumulator for low speed operation , bridge switch connection fan should engage if not check fuse and relay and the resistor.

Verify temperature sensor control for high speed operation. Ground connection fan should engage.if not check fuse and relay

4 change thermostat, least expensive thing to do.

5 change the radiator, in the old days you could pull one and have a radiator repair shop gunk tank it but those shops are few and far between as the advent of plastic aluminum radiators and the EPA closed the doors to many of these shops.

6 If the above fails to rectify your overheating your coolant passages are plugged and you need a full strength flush and lastly a new water pump.

7 begrudgingly listen to Wilson1010 he has a nice way of cutting to the chase based on what appears to be a good deal of experience.

Dear 1783pictures buy yourself MB repair manuals and get a working knowledge of them or i fear your ownership of your car will be shortlived and painful. Best of luck to all .
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post #78 of 210 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 10:33 AM
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In Oz they around 500+. I'm hoping if I take it to the radiator place they can give it a better clean out then I can do.
ouch! What do they do, put a tariff on it? It can't cost that much more to ship it can ot?
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post #79 of 210 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Dear 1783pictures buy yourself MB repair manuals and get a working knowledge of them or i fear your ownership of your car will be shortlived and painful. Best of luck to all .
I certainly wasn't expecting this right out the gate. Especially after paying for a PPI. This has been a shock.

No question that I will learn as I go. Considering I literally just took delivery of the vehicle I don't want to eff around. If I need to pay a qualified mechanic to find and fix the issue, so be it. I won't cry.

Drove it to church this morning. Outside temp was 81. AC was insanely cold (it gave me chills) and when I went to low fan to automatic fan speed somehow the center vents came on again! After church, no dice. No center vents. And it was no longer 81 outside. It was 90 and the ac wasn't nearly as cold. When I was waiting at the Starbucks drive-through the temp started rising. I turned the ac off and after driving for a few minutes the temp returned to normal.

I drive around for a good half hour and at one point stopped and just idled in a parking lot for ten minutes drinking coffee. The engine temp went up maybe two degrees to 85.

No AC, no high temp.
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post #80 of 210 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 11:20 AM
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Thanks.

The Aux fan sure isn't cheap.

Can't find the relay yet. When I click AC and Heating with my car I get no results. Strange.
You can easily test the aux fan by jumping the connection at the A/C receiver-drier switch, like this:

1. Locate the A/C receiver-drier. The pressure switch to the aux fan is the red-cylinder thing in this picture (we are behind the passenger headlight here):



2. Disconnect the two spade connectors attached to the pressure switch (the two white plastic things you can see in this picture):



3. Jump the connection between the two female connectors. A paperclip or safety pin should work.



4. Turn the key to position 2 (so the dash lights come on). If the aux fan is working is should switch on at low speed.
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