Proper disassembly of Steering Gearbox - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Proper disassembly of Steering Gearbox

It appears from looking at other threads that I remove the very large (2.5 inch) hex shaped locking ring before I remove the 2-pin inner ring and then the C-clip lock to get to my seal of my Power Steering Gearbox.
Does anyone have suggestions before I try to force off the very large hex locking ring?
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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 02:40 PM
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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 02:46 PM
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This guy documented the process, very well done IMHO:

How to reseal a MB steering gear
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dikdaan View Post
This guy documented the process, very well done IMHO:

How to reseal a MB steering gear
I am using David's description and my project picks up at line 14 and goes through line 24 of his write up. I am always nervous the first time doing these refreshes so any additional input will be appreciated.
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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 03:21 PM
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I've never done this box, either, but that looks like a jam nut. Hold the inner part with a pin spanner and turn the hex CCW enough to release the tension then unscrew the inner portion and hex together.

My guess is there's a procedure for adjusting the inner nut, so, if you can't follow the procedure at least mark the nut so you can re-install it the way it was.

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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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I am unable to remove the large jam nut. I borrowed a very large pipe wrench today and applied significant CCW pressure without success. EPC implies that the jam nut is to be renewed.

Can someone give me guidance on how to get the nut removed without destroying the shape?
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 04:16 PM
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Did you use some penetrating oil, kroil is very good .

Sometimes rapping with a hammer can help jar the threads loose a bit.

If you do plan to renew the nut , which probably is not necessary, you could use a cut off wheel as a last resort.

The thing with pipe wrenches on thin nuts and pipes is that the gripping force of the wrench wants to crush what ever it is trying to loosen Which causes the threads to increase the friction between them.

Try to find a big arse adjustable wrench or find a shop to remove the nut. Good luck.
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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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First, I cleaned with brake cleaner to remove the grease, then I used Kroil penetrating oil. I will try rapping with a hammer. I did not get carried away with the pipe wrench since it does have a tendency to crush things. At this point the nut is still in good shape.

My brother-in-law suggested I stop by some pawn shops and see if I can find a 64mm deep socket or wrench. He has heat available but does not want to try that since bearings are involved. He and I are scheduled to spend some time on it Sunday morning. Hopefully we do not end up cutting it off.

Ordering the part is an option but that adds another week to my downtime. I may try the dealership if it turns out I need just that one part.

Thanks-Tom
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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 06:51 PM
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If there is truck repair shop in your neighborhood, one that handles tractor trailers , they could remove it in no time .
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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 09:13 PM
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If you have the right tool it will come off very easy.
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