BEGINNINGS OF REAR SCREEN TROUBLE? HELP PLEASE - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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BEGINNINGS OF REAR SCREEN TROUBLE? HELP PLEASE

While cleaning out some winter crud from the trunk weather strip area I noticed a few rust bubbles. The bubbles are at the lower left and right corners under the rear screen gasket, only visible with the trunk lid open. Rear glass is clear, trunk is dry. What can / should I be doing now before this creeps and gets worse?

current cars:
1991 420 SEL 156K*LOST TO FIRE*
1989 560 SEL 77K
1985 280 SE 168K
1991 560 SEL 189K
1997 SL500. 77K

gone but not forgotten:
1988 560 SEL-sold for $$$ back in '07!!!
1991 560 SEL -parts living on in the '89 and '87 AND NOW THE '91 420

1987 560 SEC
1989 300 SE
1991 500 SL
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018, 07:50 PM
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BEGINNINGS OF REAR SCREEN TROUBLE? HELP PLEASE

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Originally Posted by jorden1965 View Post
While cleaning out some winter crud from the trunk weather strip area I noticed a few rust bubbles. The bubbles are at the lower left and right corners under the rear screen gasket, only visible with the trunk lid open. Rear glass is clear, trunk is dry. What can / should I be doing now before this creeps and gets worse?


What I did when this presented was to remove the glass. I purchased a new seal from MB. The pipe dope used back in the day has shrunk and is hard as bones. I had to mitigate some
Rust in the same spot, using miracle paint on the metal. You can do this, no
Problem!



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1991 560SEC 199 /268, 17" RS90'S, Eibach springs, Bilstein HD shocks, Custom rear sway bar, Euro Headlights, Custom ceramic coated headers and down pipes with stainless dual exhaust, W140 glass sunroof, dog ear trunk spoiler, OEM Skid Plate, Euro bumpers, wood refinish and restored.

Last edited by 281lxm; 03-15-2018 at 08:28 PM.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018, 07:52 PM
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The problem with rust is that you usually only see part of it. Hence, removal of the C pillar panel and parcel shelf to expose all the metal would be in order.

Then remove all the rust you can find and treat the surfaces with POR-15, or one of the similar products to prevent it from spreading.

Finding where the water is entering should be high on the list, too. If from the rear window, resealing it is needed, too.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-16-2018, 03:11 AM
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Yup, good you've spotted it. I had no bubbles but did have a very slight leak. I paid to have the window out (£100 to have removed and refitted) and bodyshop guy decided to cut out the bit of rust on the lip and weld in new.
Didn't cost much to be honest. Had some other paint done too.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-16-2018, 10:57 PM
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Another idea that I did (hoping mine isn't as bad as the others who posted) was get black RTV and ran a small bead of it under the rubber window seal both between the seal and the painted metal and between the seal and the glass itself. It's a tedious operation as the seal will keep trying to push the nozzle tip out from under, just go slow and don't worry if a little oozes out you can clean that up later. My back glass was leaking a little in a hard rain but has been bone dry since I did this. I know this might sound a bit redneck or shady tree but even if temporary until it can be fixed properly might stop and worse damage already there

Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints
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I'm surprised that NOBODY has asked me what this is / means
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 02:56 AM
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That can definitely stop or reduce a leak, tried it with my SEC and the boot was much drier for about a year.
As always I want to warn future readers of the dangers of non automotive silicone sealant. The bathroom stuff is full of corrosion causing stuff that will eat your metal in a disastrous fashion.
I discovered this myself and then found out why.
Automotive stuff is absolutely fine though.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 06:53 PM
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Absolutely ian, what I used was black RTV that is/was highly resistant to engine oil gasket making glue. I know the household stuff is no good for this nor for marine use

Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints
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My Stable:
'91 560SEC "Ursula"
'91 300SE (sold) "Sadie"
'11 Suzuki SX4 Sport Sedan
'02 S-10 Truck
'72 SeaBird boat, "Riff Raft", overhaul restarted

Dif-tor heh smusma
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you so much, awesome write up, pics and part number for correct sealant - with your post I know I can do this

One quick additional question : besides using a nylon pry tool, what is the appropriate method to remove the stainless molding that embeds into the window seal?

current cars:
1991 420 SEL 156K*LOST TO FIRE*
1989 560 SEL 77K
1985 280 SE 168K
1991 560 SEL 189K
1997 SL500. 77K

gone but not forgotten:
1988 560 SEL-sold for $$$ back in '07!!!
1991 560 SEL -parts living on in the '89 and '87 AND NOW THE '91 420

1987 560 SEC
1989 300 SE
1991 500 SL
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 06:53 AM
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OK so with your nylon pry tool, you are going to slide (tap the tool to get that sucker to move). to separate the two halves of the frame. Do it prior to removal as it helps to break the sealing a tad bit.

then from the inside, you are going to have to review the FSM on the C pillar removals (just out of the way not off the seat belts) as to not break the NLA items or clips.

Remove the Philips head screw from the defroster and bend away the unit from the glass. using a carpet knife with a fresh razor blade, you will run the entire window between glass and seal, cutting the big head off, all the way around. then using two dumbbell style suction devices placed at opposing angles out side (you will be close to the center here about shoulder width) you will begin pushing in and out slowly to break the rubber sealing. then lift toward the top and pull back up and out. (it is quite intuitive as you are doing it as the bottom is wider and deeper so you must lift toward roofline to free bottom chassis lift).

You need to have saw horses covered in moving blankets or the like to set the glass on. I did all of this as a solo so just plan. the glass is always stored curve UP TO CATCH AND HOLD WATER. I also put blankets on the roof of my car, and transferred the glass to the roof and it was out of the way of family in the garage. Then I went to work on the rust, get all of that old whit MB cracked sealing compound off. I used a dremmel to polish and burrs off the metal channel the rubber sits in. You also need a 3/8' length of rope for the new seal to help install the glass when the time comes. Measure the length of the window or the frame and add two feet. the glass is surrounded by rubber and a frame, and it floats in the hole in the body.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 07:48 AM
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For sealant you can also use "3M Bedding and Glazing compound". It stays flexible after setting up.
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