HardwayMB's 1988 560SEC Repair Thread - Page 15 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #141 of 170 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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It became obvious the new bushings were not going to slide in and they are not stout enough to be hammered on. The solution is to use something that could pull them together. In my case, a piece of all thread, some washers, and nuts. After a few minutes the bushings were perfectly seated and re-assembly was the opposite of disassembly. Final torque at 180nm and it was another job done.

Today was so productive that I have run out of new parts to install. I am waiting for my control arms to come back from Roy in Georgia as I have taken him up on his offer to install the new bushings in to them. Once they arrive I should only need a day to put everything back together. I will also need to go through the process of filling the transmission back to spec. I am really eager to see how the car sits with the cut springs!
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post #142 of 170 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 08:01 PM
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Great posts and good clear pics - another job well done on the bucket list


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87 White Euro 500 "ECE" 265hp SEC
88 Black Euro 560 "RUF"300hp SEC
89 Blue Euro 560 "RUF" 300hp Hydro SEL

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post #143 of 170 (permalink) Old 01-20-2019, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardwayMB View Post
After several attempts to install the bolt in the same direction as it came out, I did what others did, turned it around, and installed it.
The correct way:

The 1/3 of the firewall (the firewall is actually three distinct pieces) has to be removed -the driver side portion. It is held in place only by 4 self-tapping screws. Once that part is removed, the area opens up a lot and offers access to that bolt.

When a bolt is tightened (any bolt for that matter, especially if it is supposed to be torqued to a specific value), the bolt is held in place and the nut is the one to be rotated. The reason that bolt is installed that way is because if the nut is to be placed in between the firewalls it cannot be tightened because the (torque) wrench does not have enough room to be maneuvered there (brake lines, cables, A/C hoses, etc.). So keeping those two last statements in mind, to install the bolt from the front and torque it while holding the nut in place in between the two firewalls (like everybody appear to do) is not the correct way. To avoid that, the Germans installed the bolt pointing to the front of the car, held the bolt in place with a wrench between the two firewalls and tightened the nut in the engine compartment, where there was plenty of room to maneuver a torque wrench. That's the reason the bolt is installed that way.

Of course, once the portion of the firewall is removed some cleaning can be done too. To reinstall it is only a matter of 10-15 minutes.
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post #144 of 170 (permalink) Old 01-21-2019, 12:53 AM
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Haha there is always logic to German Engineering and they covered it all in the 80's with the W126 chassis.
It still amazes me how thorough they were with every component.
We talked about this only yesterday (Sunday) at Classic Cars & Coffee Meet where some 300-400 cars turn up as a minimum every month and as we inspect so many classic makes/models it is soon apparent how well built an 80's Mercedes is compared many other cars of the same period.


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87 White Euro 500 "ECE" 265hp SEC
88 Black Euro 560 "RUF"300hp SEC
89 Blue Euro 560 "RUF" 300hp Hydro SEL

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post #145 of 170 (permalink) Old 01-21-2019, 09:43 PM
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It always amazes me how Liviu 165 chimes in with all the facts and the rationale behind them. Then he explains everything in a simple easy to understand manner.

KUDO'S to Liviu 165 and the many other outstanding contributors here on BenzWorld

The "machine" is live and well!


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1989 560 SEC Supercharged - 317+ rwhp - H&R lowered - OZ 3 piece staggered wheels - upgraded brakes - AMG Tri-Y's - Bergwerks FGS - a true Euro Rod

1981 500SE euro AMG
1985 euro 500SEC
1986 560 SEC
1985 500SEL
1989 560SEC
1990 560SEL
1987 euro 560SEL 300hp 822 engine option
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post #146 of 170 (permalink) Old 01-21-2019, 09:50 PM
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Thank you. I am just trying to bring my modest contribution to the forum.
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post #147 of 170 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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I received my lower control arms back from @liviu165 last week. I took him up on his offer to press the new control arm bushings in with his tool and he did an outstanding job. They look like they were done at the factory. Thank you so much Roy! For anyone that is curious, shipping a pair of control arms and new bushings weighs 18.7 pounds.

With an open weekend in front of me I set about reinstalling everything that was left on the front suspension. Working with new and clean parts is such a joy and I knew all the tricks and order all the parts needed to go in. Don't get me wrong, after re-assembling both sides, I was whooped. New bushings for that connect the control rod to the control arm were installed. In addition to all the new parts I ordered, I picked up a set of nearly new OEM spec Bilstein front shocks from a fellow 560SEC owner that moved on to H&R springs and B8 shocks. Cleaning and painting the original shock piston covers took place last weekend and came out alright. If I ever have it apart again I will apply a few more light coats. Everything went together as expected with no drama.
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post #148 of 170 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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With the wheels back on the car and the car on the ground, I adjusted my lower control arms to line up with the marks I made when I disassembled everything. All of the weight dependent fasteners were torqued to spec, battery tray, and battery reinstalled. I woke up this morning to set about filling the transmission to spec. With 4.5 quarts poured in I started the car and back it out. After going over the center cable cover of my life and the lip of the garage floor, the front suspension settled. As I got out to look at the final result I was a bit surprised. I was not expecting it to be as low as it was and I am so glad I err'd on the side of caution and only cut 2 coils out of the springs. I went through the process of driving, checking, and filling the transmission to spec.

We were under the threat of rain most of the day and I also needed to work on my daily driver before the weekend was out so I snapped some quick pictures. The lowered front end changes the entire look of the car. Its actually a little too low for me but its growing on me. I still love the 16" BBS wheels and have no plans to change them out. I will adjust the threaded arm for the SLS valve to bring the rear down a little to make the car sit level. The driver side also sits just a hair lower than the passenger side and in my opinion, the passenger side is perfect. I have a new spring insulator and may pull the driver side spring and install it. The alignment is really close just the way it is but I want to resolve the driver side spring issue before getting it aligned.

Initial driving impressions are great. It feels like a new car. I did not drive it very far but did get up to 60 and it was rock solid. Once I get the driver side spring sorted, level the car out, and get it aligned, I will get some better pictures under better conditions. For now, the project is 99% done and I am digging the results. It is going to look great at Radwood!
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post #149 of 170 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 08:37 PM
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nice job. what is the center to wheel to fender height as it is on each side right now


why do you think one side ended up higher/lower?

you will enjoy radwood

one of the organizers, art has/had a dunkel blue 500sec with bbs

1985 500SEL Euro Nautic Blue - A Classic Beauty
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post #150 of 170 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardwayMB View Post
With the wheels back on the car and the car on the ground, I adjusted my lower control arms to line up with the marks I made when I disassembled everything. All of the weight dependent fasteners were torqued to spec, battery tray, and battery reinstalled. I woke up this morning to set about filling the transmission to spec. With 4.5 quarts poured in I started the car and back it out. After going over the center cable cover of my life and the lip of the garage floor, the front suspension settled. As I got out to look at the final result I was a bit surprised. I was not expecting it to be as low as it was and I am so glad I err'd on the side of caution and only cut 2 coils out of the springs. I went through the process of driving, checking, and filling the transmission to spec.

We were under the threat of rain most of the day and I also needed to work on my daily driver before the weekend was out so I snapped some quick pictures. The lowered front end changes the entire look of the car. Its actually a little too low for me but its growing on me. I still love the 16" BBS wheels and have no plans to change them out. I will adjust the threaded arm for the SLS valve to bring the rear down a little to make the car sit level. The driver side also sits just a hair lower than the passenger side and in my opinion, the passenger side is perfect. I have a new spring insulator and may pull the driver side spring and install it. The alignment is really close just the way it is but I want to resolve the driver side spring issue before getting it aligned.

Initial driving impressions are great. It feels like a new car. I did not drive it very far but did get up to 60 and it was rock solid. Once I get the driver side spring sorted, level the car out, and get it aligned, I will get some better pictures under better conditions. For now, the project is 99% done and I am digging the results. It is going to look great at Radwood!
If lowering the rear via the SLS valve actually does bring the rear down, don't be surprised if the front comes up a little. Don't understand why that happens but it does. At least on my SEC and SEL.
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