Help with W126 Scoop Air Flap Vacuum Pod - Page 5 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #41 of 108 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 01:18 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
dadrab's Avatar
 
Date registered: Sep 2013
Vehicle: 1986 560 SEL
Location: Augusta, Ga.
Posts: 1,485
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Attaboy.
wooky_chew_bacca likes this.
dadrab is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #42 of 108 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 04:31 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
wooky_chew_bacca's Avatar
 
Date registered: Oct 2009
Vehicle: '91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
Location: Covington Ga
Posts: 8,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Quoted: 1282 Post(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strassenkreuzer View Post
I'm so happy that I finished these pods—and did it without removing the dash cover. Easily the most work I've ever done on a car, but it was gratifying to know that I did something no mechanic I've talked to—and there were three—would be willing to undertake. It was mostly a "Good luck with that one" kind of conversation.
I had an EVIL thought just now (and I HAVE been know to do shit like this just to rub some noses in it LOL ), swing by those shops that gave ya the "good luck with that" bullshit and tell em that the pod problem has now been fixed don't tell em that YOU changed em but make them think that one of their competitors cut ya a good deal on the fix and leave it at that OR even better, come up with some fictitious name that sounds like a carfixit shop (they'll never find it in the phone book ) and tell em that this shop (us right here) has a VAST knowledge resource base and they charge less than standard shop rates. Again, make em think they have some serious competition somewhere close that could take business away from em LOL (you'll have em scratchin' their purdy lil heads bald tryin' to figure out where this new "Euro-shop" is and who's runnin' the show

Since buying my first Benz, the SE some 14-15 years ago, and now with the coupe, the ONLY thing that someone else's wrenches have been put to these two have been alignments and tires, and that's only been because I don't have the equipment needed for those operations, everything else I've learned to do right here and I've found by and large they ain't that hard to work on, tedious at times and sometimes a lot of crap to remove to get to what needs fixing but not a whole lot different than any "regular" car (example- water pump on a SB Chevy, changing the pump takes 10 or 15 minutes but an hour or two getting all the other crap bolted to it out of the way, fan, alternator and brackets, PS pump, A/C compressor)

Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
My Stable:
'91 560SEC "Ursula"
'91 300SE (sold) "Sadie"
'11 Suzuki SX4 Sport Sedan
'02 S-10 Truck
'72 SeaBird boat, "Riff Raft", overhaul restarted

Dif-tor heh smusma
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
I'm surprised that NOBODY has asked me what this is / means
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
LOL
wooky_chew_bacca is offline  
post #43 of 108 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 07:24 PM
Lifetime Premium Member
 
281lxm's Avatar
 
Date registered: Dec 2011
Vehicle: 1991 560 SEC 1994 E500 2014 E350 Cab
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 7,013
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quoted: 435 Post(s)
Lifetime Premium Member
Garage
That crash bar is the key to that task and to do the expansion valve,


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

_____________________________________________
1991 560SEC 199 /268, 17" RS90'S, Eibach springs, Bilstein HD shocks, Custom rear sway bar, Euro Headlights, Custom ceramic coated headers and down pipes with stainless dual exhaust, W140 glass sunroof, dog ear trunk spoiler, OEM Skid Plate, Euro bumpers, wood refinish and restored.
281lxm is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #44 of 108 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
 
Strassenkreuzer's Avatar
 
Date registered: Feb 2015
Vehicle: 1989 300SE (Mitzi); 2003 CLK 430 cabrio (Clifford)
Location: Southern California, USA
Posts: 438
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Quoted: 132 Post(s)
Lifetime Premium Member
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by wooky_chew_bacca View Post
I had an EVIL thought just now (and I HAVE been know to do shit like this just to rub some noses in it LOL ), swing by those shops that gave ya the "good luck with that" bullshit and tell em that the pod problem has now been fixed don't tell em that YOU changed em but make them think that one of their competitors cut ya a good deal on the fix and leave it at that OR even better, come up with some fictitious name that sounds like a carfixit shop (they'll never find it in the phone book ) and tell em that this shop (us right here) has a VAST knowledge resource base and they charge less than standard shop rates. Again, make em think they have some serious competition somewhere close that could take business away from em LOL (you'll have em scratchin' their purdy lil heads bald tryin' to figure out where this new "Euro-shop" is and who's runnin' the show

Since buying my first Benz, the SE some 14-15 years ago, and now with the coupe, the ONLY thing that someone else's wrenches have been put to these two have been alignments and tires, and that's only been because I don't have the equipment needed for those operations, everything else I've learned to do right here and I've found by and large they ain't that hard to work on, tedious at times and sometimes a lot of crap to remove to get to what needs fixing but not a whole lot different than any "regular" car (example- water pump on a SB Chevy, changing the pump takes 10 or 15 minutes but an hour or two getting all the other crap bolted to it out of the way, fan, alternator and brackets, PS pump, A/C compressor)
Hehe. Were my default mechanic not otherwise a really good guy who takes good care of my cars with stuff I can't/do want to do myself, I'd be tempted to take you up on that. But the reality is that modern shops evidently don't want the heavy labor on really tedious, frustrating jobs. I don't fully understand the economics of it, but I have to assume that they can do more cars/modules in the same time for more profit than they'd make with the $300 in parts but the $1500 in labor they'd want to charge for pulling the dash cover and then replacing the pods.

I dunno. I'm just happy that I did it myself AND saved around a buck and a half in labor. Plus, I know the job was done right and without cutting corners because I performed 100% of the work. Did it drive me nuts at times to the point where I had to break from it for a few days and then get back to it? Yes. Would I hire myself out to change out W126 vacuum pods sans dash cover removal? Hmmm...maybe. But probably not.
wooky_chew_bacca likes this.
Strassenkreuzer is offline  
post #45 of 108 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
 
Strassenkreuzer's Avatar
 
Date registered: Feb 2015
Vehicle: 1989 300SE (Mitzi); 2003 CLK 430 cabrio (Clifford)
Location: Southern California, USA
Posts: 438
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Quoted: 132 Post(s)
Lifetime Premium Member
(Thread Starter)
OK. So today—after taking a break for nearly a week—I finally got the sixth (air scoop) pod near the accelerator pedal done. Eureka! It was a bit¢h, because the old pod had exploded and I couldn't get its base (the black part) out of the mount because I had no leverage! hehe. I used a cutter pliers to just cut the crap out of it until it just fell out.

As @281lxm said, the crash bar is key. And the weird thing is that you don't really remove it. But you have to remove the three bolts that secure it—one of which is behind the instruments and hence why removing the cluster is required—in order to just budge it maaaaybe a quarter-inch so you can squeeze the new pod's pink base (its widest part) into position. Then, you have to do some trickery with your MightyVac because the pod's actuator arm is too long to meet the flap's ferrule, so you have to suck it down an inch or so in order to get it aligned. But as I mentioned before, the working space is so darned tight that it really helps to have small hands. Which I lack. However, I prevailed. Persistence wore down the resistance.

However, all is not one hundred percent. It's my understanding that in the "standard" mode (middle button on the climate control selector), cold air is directed through all the front vents. So far so good, and I'm really happy about that. I now have center vent air—something which I didn't at all have before. But it's also my understanding that in "standard" mode, no cold air is supposed to be directed to the windshield. Such is still not the case; while I have good air flow from the front, a noticeable amount of refrigerated air is still blowing up to the windshield through the defroster vents when in AC or Bi-level mode.

Given that all the pods are new and I know them to be functional (i.e., not leaking), should I next suspect that the solenoid switchover valve is faulty?

Any of you gurus out there know what to do next? My self-taught experience here suggests that it's one of three things:

- Switchover valve
- Climate control master panel (with the temp selector)
- Faulty flap(s)

It strikes me that of those three, the only moving parts lie with the switchover valve and the flaps, and it seems to me the flaps are less likely to be the culprit.

Any opinions?

Thanks, gents.
Strassenkreuzer is offline  
post #46 of 108 (permalink) Old 07-21-2017, 01:20 PM
Lifetime Premium Member
 
281lxm's Avatar
 
Date registered: Dec 2011
Vehicle: 1991 560 SEC 1994 E500 2014 E350 Cab
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 7,013
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quoted: 435 Post(s)
Lifetime Premium Member
Garage
So in the picture below, full blue ac wheel, the center button is pushed in, the top button on the right is pushed in, and the light is on the recirculation button. What is the experience under those circumstances. Also be sure the vent to the back seat is closed.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	CCU.jpg
Views:	63
Size:	51.8 KB
ID:	2217593  


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

_____________________________________________
1991 560SEC 199 /268, 17" RS90'S, Eibach springs, Bilstein HD shocks, Custom rear sway bar, Euro Headlights, Custom ceramic coated headers and down pipes with stainless dual exhaust, W140 glass sunroof, dog ear trunk spoiler, OEM Skid Plate, Euro bumpers, wood refinish and restored.
281lxm is offline  
post #47 of 108 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
 
Strassenkreuzer's Avatar
 
Date registered: Feb 2015
Vehicle: 1989 300SE (Mitzi); 2003 CLK 430 cabrio (Clifford)
Location: Southern California, USA
Posts: 438
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Quoted: 132 Post(s)
Lifetime Premium Member
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 281lxm View Post
So in the picture below, full blue ac wheel, the center button is pushed in, the top button on the right is pushed in, and the light is on the recirculation button. What is the experience under those circumstances. Also be sure the vent to the back seat is closed.
Thanks for the troubleshooting tip. So I performed the experiment you described:

- Recirc switch on
- Temp set at MIN
- Center console switch (AC) set
- Fan on high

Observations:

Air temp: Air was reasonably cool (but not cold) at engine start-up (already warm engine). Outside temp during the test was 71-73ºF. Perceived air temp dropped rapidly after ten or so minutes of driving and was comfortably chilly.

Air distribution:
Appeared to be the same as with normal AC after replacement of all pods: Strong airflow through center and side vents but also via the windshield defroster vents—which I don't think should be the case when the left-most switch is NOT selected and was the case before I replaced the scoop air pod adjacent the driver's-side gas pedal. There was no airflow evident through metal duct behind knee bolster holes; this is as expected with the console center switch selected. Rear vent was shut pursuant to your instruction.

Conclusion:
I'm still stymied as to the air flowing up to the windshield—so much so that in the fifteen or so minutes I had the settings such as you asked, the windshield began condensing outside humidity—as seen in the attached pic.

Next steps?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Console.jpg
Views:	87
Size:	47.0 KB
ID:	2218033   Click image for larger version

Name:	Mitzi window.jpg
Views:	61
Size:	56.1 KB
ID:	2218041  
Strassenkreuzer is offline  
post #48 of 108 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 05:43 AM
Lifetime Premium Member
 
281lxm's Avatar
 
Date registered: Dec 2011
Vehicle: 1991 560 SEC 1994 E500 2014 E350 Cab
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 7,013
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quoted: 435 Post(s)
Lifetime Premium Member
Garage
Help with W126 Scoop Air Flap Vacuum Pod

OK now is there any issue when you request heat? Same circumstances, just go full heat and have the same buttons pressed? Also, did you use new rubber on each line to each pod with elbow and straight connections? Over the years they don't seal tight anymore and one leak can spoil the field so to speak.

Another issue I am curious about was your at temp circumstance parked, and another while moving. Have a look at your auxiliary water pump in the firewall. It is near the monovalve, anyway that is supposed to keep coolant moving thru the system when pressure is not so great (550 RPM). Look at those electrical connections and maybe spray some deoxit on them to clean. Look for leakage evidence that could corrode the connections. It is TIGHT in there.


I also got a tip for you that may help the short stroke actuation.



cap off the very bottom distributor nipple with strong rubber tight cap.


Use a Y connector on that line you just removed and connect an open end of the Y to the number 4 port on the distributor.



The line you removed to number 4 port goes into the 3rd Y connection



This should keep your short stroke fully closed and prevent the circumstance.






Pay no attention to my blue tape, remember this was all in boxes and in my trunk during the removal and rebuilding of my heater box. The lines are factory colors to factory distributor nipples except how I described.


Edit due to numerous PM asking: that is a stock google photo of carbon fiber. My wood is being refinished in factory Burl.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

_____________________________________________
1991 560SEC 199 /268, 17" RS90'S, Eibach springs, Bilstein HD shocks, Custom rear sway bar, Euro Headlights, Custom ceramic coated headers and down pipes with stainless dual exhaust, W140 glass sunroof, dog ear trunk spoiler, OEM Skid Plate, Euro bumpers, wood refinish and restored.

Last edited by 281lxm; 07-22-2017 at 08:00 AM.
281lxm is offline  
post #49 of 108 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 08:17 AM
Lifetime Premium Member
 
281lxm's Avatar
 
Date registered: Dec 2011
Vehicle: 1991 560 SEC 1994 E500 2014 E350 Cab
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 7,013
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quoted: 435 Post(s)
Lifetime Premium Member
Garage
Help with W126 Scoop Air Flap Vacuum Pod

A solenoid is cheaper than a CCU, might get lucky with few used from the yards. The purpose behind the Y connection is to only apply full vacuum to the pods closing the defrost, never having it leaking or 10% open while using automatic.
wooky_chew_bacca likes this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

_____________________________________________
1991 560SEC 199 /268, 17" RS90'S, Eibach springs, Bilstein HD shocks, Custom rear sway bar, Euro Headlights, Custom ceramic coated headers and down pipes with stainless dual exhaust, W140 glass sunroof, dog ear trunk spoiler, OEM Skid Plate, Euro bumpers, wood refinish and restored.

Last edited by 281lxm; 07-22-2017 at 08:22 AM.
281lxm is offline  
post #50 of 108 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 09:39 AM
BenzWorld Elite
 
wooky_chew_bacca's Avatar
 
Date registered: Oct 2009
Vehicle: '91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
Location: Covington Ga
Posts: 8,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Quoted: 1282 Post(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by 281lxm View Post
Edit due to numerous PM asking: that is a stock google photo of carbon fiber. My wood is being refinished in factory Burl.
I'm glad you straightened us out on that Louis, I was gonna say if you had carbon fiber then WHY re-do the wood

Back to the topic at hand, as Louis said and I've said before somewhere, new rubber connections AND don't think the hard plastic can't/won't leak, they can. I had to replace two under the hood on the SE due to holes rubbed into the side of the line and with all the places under the dash that these are fit and bent into . . . . . . The final fix on the SE was the solenoid gang, hey it's 25+ old and an electromechanical gizmo. My thinking is that the system overall is almost there then the push button panel isn't the problem

Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
My Stable:
'91 560SEC "Ursula"
'91 300SE (sold) "Sadie"
'11 Suzuki SX4 Sport Sedan
'02 S-10 Truck
'72 SeaBird boat, "Riff Raft", overhaul restarted

Dif-tor heh smusma
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
I'm surprised that NOBODY has asked me what this is / means
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
LOL
wooky_chew_bacca is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Sedan Forums > W126 S,SE,SEC,SEL,SD,SDL Class

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Mercedes-Benz Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 

Title goes here

close
video goes here
description goes here. Read Full Story
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome