M103 Rough idle and vacuum leak - Page 17 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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Old 12-14-2018, 11:35 AM
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Back years ago when I was a kid, one of my cousins was into VW Bugs (still is) and owned two he "Baja'd" as well as a sedan that was his DD. He was known in town as the one to go to if you needed work done on yours. Danny always specified BOSCH when getting parts. Fast forward to now, if BOSCH is and has been good enough for German cars in general, especially MB, Beemers, and Porsche then it's good enough for mine, I even got a Bosch fuel pump assembly for my S10 last year, partly for the price but also their reputation of quality
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Old 12-14-2018, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Definitely the Bosch Distributor. I had an off brand that wore out very quickly.

So far this winter my car has been much more reliable than previous years. I've had no problems with cold starts or stalling. I only drive it once or twice a week around town. Being a college student money has been tight and I haven't been able to afford to try another eBay EZL, but I will when I can.
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Old 12-15-2018, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by H.D. View Post
The Bosch cap from the MB dealership.


Not if the rotor is in good shape. The O-ring and the dust seal I‘d only replace if they look like they should be replaced. … Anyway, don‘t think that the distributor is watertight or airtight, even with a new O-ring it is not … respectively it should not be. ...

Happy holidays to everybody.

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Thanks, H.D. I'm kinda puzzled as to why a single contact corrodes while the others are left perfectly intact. As you saw from the pics, even the plug wire cap was disintegrated. I'm surprised it fired at all. There could be internal corrosion on other contacts after I pull the cap and actually examine the whole thing, but hopefully this is the extent of the damage. Is it normal for these caps to corrode after just a year or two?

One other question: How does one determine which cylinder the distributor contact addresses? Of course I can trace the wires to the block, but is the cylinder order like 1-2-3-4-5-6 starting from the firewall? Or is it the other way around?

Finally, I'm going to replace my spark plugs; I was told by a mechanic in Florida that M103s don't like fancy plus and instead to use high quality, copper-core plugs like were OEM spec'd back in the 80s. What kind of torque do they require? Last thing I want to do is strip a thread.

Thank you.
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Old 12-15-2018, 07:46 AM
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Maybe even throw a dab of dielectric grease on the plug boots going on the cap as well, couldn't hurt it
I have some of that. Do you mean use a cotton swab and put it on the metal contact inside the plug cap? This grease in no way impedes electrical flow, eh—but it impedes corrosion? If so, then I'll use in on all of the cap wire leads.
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Old 12-15-2018, 07:48 AM
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Definitely the Bosch Distributor. I had an off brand that wore out very quickly.

So far this winter my car has been much more reliable than previous years. I've had no problems with cold starts or stalling. I only drive it once or twice a week around town. Being a college student money has been tight and I haven't been able to afford to try another eBay EZL, but I will when I can.
Thanks, Cody. I'll buy the (twice as) expensive MB part over the Bosch—though I suspect the Benz-labeled one will have been manufactured by either of Bosch or Beru. Hope all's well with your project.
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Old 12-15-2018, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Strassenkreuzer View Post
... Is it normal for these caps to corrode after just a year or two? ...
No. …

Quote:
Originally Posted by Strassenkreuzer View Post
... How does one determine which cylinder the distributor contact addresses? Of course I can trace the wires to the block, but is the cylinder order like 1-2-3-4-5-6 starting from the firewall? Or is it the other way around? ...
The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 … starting from the ignition distributor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Strassenkreuzer View Post
... I'm going to replace my spark plugs; I was told by a mechanic in Florida that M103s don't like fancy plus and instead to use high quality, copper-core plugs like were OEM spec'd back in the 80s. What kind of torque do they require? ...
That mechanic in Florida was right … non-resistor copper-core plugs for the M103. … Install them with a torque of 20 Nm … and don‘t forget to clean the recesses they sit in (best with compressed air) before you remove the old plugs.
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Old 12-15-2018, 10:28 AM
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... Being a college student money has been tight and I haven't been able to afford to try another eBay EZL, but I will when I can.
Take care of that as you may see fit … and don‘t put college in second place. …

H.D.
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Old 12-15-2018, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by H.D. View Post
No. …


The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 … starting from the ignition distributor.


That mechanic in Florida was right … non-resistor copper-core plugs for the M103. … Install them with a torque of 20 Nm … and don‘t forget to clean the recesses they sit in (best with compressed air) before you remove the old plugs.
Thanks. So, looking at the distributor cap from the front of the engine, the left-most connector is cylinder 1 and the right most is 4?

And what I meant above is the physical cylinder location of the engine when looking at the block from the right side of the car: From front to back, it's 1-2-3-4-5-6. Or is 6 at the front of the engine? Or am I all wet on this entirely. And the numbers correspond strictly in line with the firing order...
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Old 12-15-2018, 12:14 PM
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... So, looking at the distributor cap from the front of the engine, the left-most connector is cylinder 1 and the right most is 4?
And what I meant above is the physical cylinder location of the engine when looking at the block from the right side of the car: From front to back, it's 1-2-3-4-5-6. Or is 6 at the front of the engine? ...
You find the cylinder numbers on the cover that goes over the distributor cap. … The physical cylinder location from front to back is 1-2-3-4-5-6.
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Last edited by H.D.; 12-16-2018 at 12:55 AM.
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Old 12-16-2018, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Strassenkreuzer View Post
I have some of that. Do you mean use a cotton swab and put it on the metal contact inside the plug cap? This grease in no way impedes electrical flow, eh—but it impedes corrosion? If so, then I'll use in on all of the cap wire leads.
Yes, use it kinda like a "sealer" to keep moisture in the air out and it helps seal the rubber to the cap without it getting stuck (we've all had to deal with that)
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My Stable:
'91 560SEC "Ursula"
'91 300SE (sold) "Sadie"
'11 Suzuki SX4 Sport Sedan
'02 S-10 Truck
'72 SeaBird boat, "Riff Raft", overhaul restarted

Dif-tor heh smusma
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