M103 Rough idle and vacuum leak - Page 16 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #151 of 174 (permalink) Old 07-10-2018, 10:31 AM
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I've redone the tests and attached an image with the results.
The data I see on that piece of paper leaves no doubt … short circuit in the EZL.

After EZL relacement the resistance between CIS-ECU connector terminals 13 & 2 should be less than 1 Ω with the throttle closed, and inifinite up form the moment the throttle starts to open … and if there is no other problem affecting it, acceleration should be much better.

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post #152 of 174 (permalink) Old 08-10-2018, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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I've ordered an EZL! It should be here Thursday the 16th.
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post #153 of 174 (permalink) Old 08-14-2018, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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The new EZL arrived. I bench tested it and it's in almost identical condition to the one on my car. The results are attached I'll be in contact with the seller to return or exchange it unless I hear something different from this forum before then.
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post #154 of 174 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 04:51 AM
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The new EZL arrived. I bench tested it and it's in almost identical condition to the one on my car. ...
If so, this “new“ EZL is as faulty as the one on your car. … Also with this EZL installed, the CIS-ECU would not receive correct “throttle opened“ signals from the TPS.
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post #155 of 174 (permalink) Old 08-16-2018, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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When I say new I meant new to me.. A used item for $50 on ebay, with free returns thankfully.
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post #156 of 174 (permalink) Old 08-16-2018, 11:57 AM
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When I say new I meant new to me.. A used item for $50 on ebay, with free returns thankfully.
Yep … thankfully …
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post #157 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 07:38 AM
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To those who are following this thread, I finally got around to doing a more thorough diagnosis once the car had been sitting for a month, as the idle problem always followed such periods; once the car had been running for several hours, it would generally start and run pretty well—until it sat for another week or three.

Turns out that my distributor cap, only about two years old, developed serious corrosion at the far right lower terminal (looking at it from the front of the car), and the plug wire connector deteriorated with it. How it was connecting at all is beyond me, and how this happens is also a bit of a mystery.

Question is: Which distributor cap to buy: Bosch. Beru. Or "genuine Mercedes-Benz"—which I assume is made by either of the first two. I'm also going to replace the O-ring, dust seal and all plug wires as well.

Anything else I should replace while I'm at it? I'm pretty sure the rotor's going to be in good shape. I'm having trouble getting at the bottom cap screw as it's in a very awkward spot; I need to get a better tool.

Thanks. And happy holidays to you all.
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post #158 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 08:45 AM
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... Question is: Which distributor cap to buy: Bosch. Beru. Or "genuine Mercedes-Benz" ...
The Bosch cap from the MB dealership.

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... Anything else I should replace while I'm at it? I'm pretty sure the rotor's going to be in good shape. ...
Not if the rotor is in good shape. The O-ring and the dust seal I‘d only replace if they look like they should be replaced. … Anyway, don‘t think that the distributor is watertight or airtight, even with a new O-ring it is not … respectively it should not be. ...

Happy holidays to everybody.

H.D.
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Last edited by H.D.; 12-14-2018 at 11:43 AM. Reason: added "with"
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post #159 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 11:21 AM
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Maybe even throw a dab of dielectric grease on the plug boots going on the cap as well, couldn't hurt it
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Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints
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My Stable:
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'02 S-10 Truck
'72 SeaBird boat, "Riff Raft", overhaul restarted

Dif-tor heh smusma
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I'm surprised that NOBODY has asked me what this is / means
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LOL
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post #160 of 174 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 11:26 AM
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I had a very bad experience with corrosion after less than a year on a Beru cap on one of my M103's in the past year.
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