Replacing 'Permanent' Fuel Lines - Page 8 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #71 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Stewpot View Post
Here is Lucky Mike's original "recipe" from that other thread. Does anybody know of somebody who has actually used this? Seems like more work that getting a hose over the #$$%%%$$# barb. Are there any other methods of getting the hose over the barb besides cautious patience and gentle pushing?

-------
Here's some reading on doing it yourself: https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...uel-lines.html

If you want to do it right, either buy from the dealer or, from a very experienced friend of mine:

"The true and tried method is an old one passed along over the years, since this technique is used in manufacturing facilities and usually not found at the mechanics bench. The way to do it is as follows:

-- Get ghee, avocado or safflower oil at the grocery stores, which have a burn or smoke point near 500F.
-- Place the oil in a pot with high walls and fill to half its height.
-- Make sure that the half point fill on the pot is greater than the hose to fitting mating area. In other words, if the hose needs to slip onto the barb 1.5 inches, then the half point on the pot better be about 2 inches. You don't want to heat more hose or less hose than necessary.
-- Get a turkey or candy sugar thermometer that goes to 250 or 300 deg F and insert in the oil avoiding touching the bottom and walls.
-- Heat the oil to 212 F and insert a piece of hose to be used in the final job, but not the final one.
-- Hold the hose off the bottom of the pan and in the middle of the oil pool if possible for at least 2 minutes.
-- Remove the hose, wipe with rag clean of oil and try to insert into barb.
-- If inner core is still stiff, increase the temperature of the oil to 250F and so on until the inner core is soft and pliable like silicone hoses.
-- Each nylon hose core manufacturer uses different formulations of Nylon (like Nylon 6, 11, 12, 16) and each has a different softening temp."
Either method should be easy to get over the barbs. The 7.5mm standard fuel injection hose slips right on. And once the polyamide hose is properly softened (it has a stiff nylon core), it will slip on, too.

Of course, I'm not speaking from experience on the polyamide, just passing on what was told me by my smart engineer friend.
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post #72 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 07:13 PM
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Why not take old hoses to hydraulic shop to Fab new ones? You can reuse the fittings, and they will have tools to properly crimp the ends
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post #73 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 08:09 AM
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humblejoe, yes thank you for this alternative. I know some have used it. Will consult with hydraulic shop in my small town and see what they say, but the option described by Wookie_Chew_Bacca and Lucky Mike seems to work well and I am leaning towards that.

Bondavi..I see your Gen I motor in post#60 looks much like mine. Did you ever finish the repairs and reinstall the engine?
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post #74 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Why not take old hoses to hydraulic shop to Fab new ones? You can reuse the fittings, and they will have tools to properly crimp the ends
Couple reasons.

1. At least one of the hoses isn't that easy to remove and take to a shop. It's formed and follows the trans tunnel down and back.

2. MB didn't use crimps on these hoses. I assume because the polyamide doesn't require it, rather, just a slip-on collar. Which brings one back to standard fuel hose and if you're doing that, you may as well just use the proper hose clamps.

Just be very careful removing the old hose so you don't put even a small nick in the fitting barbs.
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post #75 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 09:47 AM
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Why not just buy new hoses from MB? The two Gen II hoses are $162 for the feed line and $61 for the return line. Gen I hoses are $101 and $67, respectively.

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post #76 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 11:36 AM
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My Gen I hoses are about 18 inches long each and both go to barbed connection on metal lines which then go back through the transmission tunnel (I guess) to the fuel pump(as shown in Bondavi's post #60. Perhaps somebody replaced one of Lucky Mike's metal fuel lines with a long hose?

Alydon, do you have the part number for the Gen 1 hoses? I think they are A1074700165 for the feeder and A1264705264 for the return line, but cannot confirm this. In any case, I can't locate those parts anywhere and I'm told they are no longer available.
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post #77 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 01:15 PM
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Why not just buy new hoses from MB? The two Gen II hoses are $162 for the feed line and $61 for the return line. Gen I hoses are $101 and $67, respectively.
Yeah man that’s what I did just ordered from the dealer quick n easy no fuss. They unbolt underneath along the frame rail below where the brake/accelerator pedals would be in the cabin.

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post #78 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 07:56 PM
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I just ordered two sets of Gen I fuel lines for my two AMGs last summer. 126-470-08-75 and 126-470-09-75.

https://www.genuinemercedesparts.com...rub-1264700975

https://www.genuinemercedesparts.com...rub-1264700875

Al Lydon
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1984 500SEL AMG -5.4L, Sebring exhaust, full suspension, 2.82 LSD, 8"/9" wheels, Recaros, door wood, Clarion rack stereo. Anthracite Grey/Black
1985 500SEC AMG Widebody, 199/278, 5.4L DOHC 32v, Sebring, suspension, fridge
1986 560SEC

Priors:
1990 560SEC AMG 6.0L, 149 Arctic White/Blue
1994 E500, 147 Polar White/Grey
1990 560SEC, 199 Blue Black/Black (Japan)
1991 560SEC, 040 Black/Palomino
1961 220SEb Coupe
1987 560SEC
1995 E420
1996 SL320

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post #79 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 03:22 AM
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Well, when you talk fuellines you really are talking about more than that. If you have the fuel cooler, i think you have two from the fuel unit to the cooler, then two more from the cooler to the lines going to the tank, then of course you have all the lines at the pump. One should not simply replace the fronts and not the fuel pump ones. So when you add all them up and if you buy the from MB its quite expensive. When I did the job I at first used the cohline brand line but afte 1 year saw a little leak. I then went to goodyear fuel injection line and used the rolled clamps. I think all together the cost was like $50.00 with the exception of having to purchase a banjo type fitting line at the pump. Sliding the lines on the barbed fittings were semi tough but not impossible. Good luck with watevr you choose
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post #80 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 08:57 AM
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Actually with the fuel cooler there are 3 rubber lines total. One goes from the firewall to the FD from the tank, one from the FD to the cooler, and the 3rd from the cooler to the firewall returning to the tank. There was great discussion on the cooler, it doesn't cool the fuel going to the engine but cools it some before going back to the tank and that's if the A/C is running

First pic is the lines before I changed them right after buying the car, 2nd pic is the new lines plus a 1 inch pipe insulation I installed
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Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints
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My Stable:
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'11 Suzuki SX4 Sport Sedan
'02 S-10 Truck
'72 SeaBird boat, "Riff Raft", overhaul restarted

Dif-tor heh smusma
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I'm surprised that NOBODY has asked me what this is / means
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LOL

Last edited by wooky_chew_bacca; 06-20-2019 at 09:19 AM.
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