Replacing 'Permanent' Fuel Lines - Page 7 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #61 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-11-2015, 12:56 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
wooky_chew_bacca's Avatar
 
Date registered: Oct 2009
Vehicle: '91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
Location: Covington Ga
Posts: 8,891
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Quoted: 1282 Post(s)
Garage
It looks like the front line is crimped a little bit too
GreenT likes this.
wooky_chew_bacca is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #62 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-11-2015, 01:03 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
GreenT's Avatar
 
Date registered: Mar 2013
Vehicle: 1995 S500 - 1986 420SEL
Location: Floriduh
Posts: 61,150
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Quoted: 10619 Post(s)
Bondavi, where's the fuel pressure regulator in that engine?
GreenT is offline  
post #63 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-11-2015, 02:37 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
bondavi's Avatar
 
Date registered: Sep 2004
Vehicle: 1983-2007 MB's
Location: Rocklin, CA
Posts: 8,003
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Quoted: 836 Post(s)
On the opposite side of the FD; on passenger level betweeen Cylinders 2 and 4.

On the 560's it is driver's side next to FD.

The line goes through it on the 560, but on the Gen1, a secondary tube is routed out of the FD to the damper.
bondavi is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #64 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-11-2015, 02:44 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
GreenT's Avatar
 
Date registered: Mar 2013
Vehicle: 1995 S500 - 1986 420SEL
Location: Floriduh
Posts: 61,150
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Quoted: 10619 Post(s)
Thanks, didn't know that.
GreenT is offline  
post #65 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 02:05 PM
BenzWorld Member
 
Stewpot's Avatar
 
Date registered: Mar 2017
Vehicle: 1985 MB 500sel (Euro)
Location: Vero Beach, Florida
Posts: 89
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Just redid my EZL paste and the car is running sweet (recent tune-up)with 20 mpg (non-ethanol gas) and rpm at 600 in gear and about 750 in park. So now its time to re-do the two fuel lines from the fuel distributor (FD) to the metal fuel lines (feeder and return).

This is especially true because about two months ago the line connecting the fuel pump to the fuel filter split and several helpful bystanders pointed it out to me. Stop the car, got it towed to the shop and repaired, but I am even more nervous than before about fire hazards. Hence wanting to change the two hoses, one of which is beginning to show cracks.

Bad news: the two hoses are no longer available and would be very expensive if they were.
Good news: after a bit of searching I came across a couple of very useful threads on Benzworld, including this one below from mid-2015 that I am dragging up again.

It seems pretty straightforward. Get a good fuel injection rated 7.5mm inner diameter fuel hose, rolled clamps, and very carefully remove the old hose and sleeves and expose the barb connectors. Appreciate that Lucky Mike, Green T, Wooky_Chew_Bacca, 281lxm, 1mbcdoc, Magic Big Daddy, and others have gone ahead. Before I get started, does anybody have any updates to this process, does it continue to work and any other advice welcome, and what the heck kind of shrink wrap was used as a protective shield where the lines cross the valve cover.
Stewpot is offline  
post #66 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 03:27 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
wooky_chew_bacca's Avatar
 
Date registered: Oct 2009
Vehicle: '91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
Location: Covington Ga
Posts: 8,891
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Quoted: 1282 Post(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewpot View Post
It seems pretty straightforward. Get a good fuel injection rated 7.5mm inner diameter fuel hose, rolled clamps, and very carefully remove the old hose and sleeves and expose the barb connectors. Appreciate that Lucky Mike, Green T, Wooky_Chew_Bacca, 281lxm, 1mbcdoc, Magic Big Daddy, and others have gone ahead. Before I get started, does anybody have any updates to this process, does it continue to work and any other advice welcome, and what the heck kind of shrink wrap was used as a protective shield where the lines cross the valve cover.
You are very welcome. 4 years out and my "new" lines are still in place, no leaks, no cracks. As far as any protective shield on the rubber hoses, what I do / did was get a slightly larger piece of hose and either split it or slide it on before installing, up to where there might be some rubbing and zip tie it in place, works like a charm though it might not pass for "original equipment"
wooky_chew_bacca is offline  
post #67 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
Outstanding Contributor
 
luckymike's Avatar
 
Date registered: Mar 2010
Vehicle: 1989 560SEC, 1989 560SEL, 1995 E420
Location: NorCal
Posts: 3,912
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Quoted: 583 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewpot View Post
Just redid my EZL paste and the car is running sweet (recent tune-up)with 20 mpg (non-ethanol gas) and rpm at 600 in gear and about 750 in park. So now its time to re-do the two fuel lines from the fuel distributor (FD) to the metal fuel lines (feeder and return).

This is especially true because about two months ago the line connecting the fuel pump to the fuel filter split and several helpful bystanders pointed it out to me. Stop the car, got it towed to the shop and repaired, but I am even more nervous than before about fire hazards. Hence wanting to change the two hoses, one of which is beginning to show cracks.

Bad news: the two hoses are no longer available and would be very expensive if they were.
Good news: after a bit of searching I came across a couple of very useful threads on Benzworld, including this one below from mid-2015 that I am dragging up again.

It seems pretty straightforward. Get a good fuel injection rated 7.5mm inner diameter fuel hose, rolled clamps, and very carefully remove the old hose and sleeves and expose the barb connectors. Appreciate that Lucky Mike, Green T, Wooky_Chew_Bacca, 281lxm, 1mbcdoc, Magic Big Daddy, and others have gone ahead. Before I get started, does anybody have any updates to this process, does it continue to work and any other advice welcome, and what the heck kind of shrink wrap was used as a protective shield where the lines cross the valve cover.
Stewpot, All continues to work well with my repair. Nothing noteworthy to report.

If you're interested in using the factory hose with the polyamide core, I have directions somewhere for heating it properly to slip over the barbed fittings.
luckymike is online now  
post #68 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 07:06 AM
BenzWorld Member
 
Stewpot's Avatar
 
Date registered: Mar 2017
Vehicle: 1985 MB 500sel (Euro)
Location: Vero Beach, Florida
Posts: 89
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Lucky Mike and Wookie_Chew_Bacca: thanx for the quick responses and the confirmation that this fix works well. Will get on it. I saw in another thread a "recipe" for the factory hose to slip more easily over the barbs (always a problem) and I think it was Lucky Mike's.

Did it include heating ghee and avocado juice (and perhaps even peanut butter) and then taking the temperature with an oven thermometer? I thought you were putting us on. Was it for real?
Stewpot is offline  
post #69 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
Outstanding Contributor
 
luckymike's Avatar
 
Date registered: Mar 2010
Vehicle: 1989 560SEC, 1989 560SEL, 1995 E420
Location: NorCal
Posts: 3,912
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Quoted: 583 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewpot View Post
Lucky Mike and Wookie_Chew_Bacca: thanx for the quick responses and the confirmation that this fix works well. Will get on it. I saw in another thread a "recipe" for the factory hose to slip more easily over the barbs (always a problem) and I think it was Lucky Mike's.

Did it include heating ghee and avocado juice (and perhaps even peanut butter) and then taking the temperature with an oven thermometer? I thought you were putting us on. Was it for real?
Yes, that's the post and no, not putting you on. You must use an oil that can be brought to a sufficiently high temperature to soften the hose without itself igniting.

In retrospect, I wish I would have used that method. Each time I open the hood and see those hose clamps I'm disappointed I didn't make a little effort to find the oil.
MBL87560SEC likes this.
luckymike is online now  
post #70 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 08:39 AM
BenzWorld Member
 
Stewpot's Avatar
 
Date registered: Mar 2017
Vehicle: 1985 MB 500sel (Euro)
Location: Vero Beach, Florida
Posts: 89
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Here is Lucky Mike's original "recipe" from that other thread. Does anybody know of somebody who has actually used this? Seems like more work that getting a hose over the #$$%%%$$# barb. Are there any other methods of getting the hose over the barb besides cautious patience and gentle pushing?

-------
Here's some reading on doing it yourself: https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126...uel-lines.html

If you want to do it right, either buy from the dealer or, from a very experienced friend of mine:

"The true and tried method is an old one passed along over the years, since this technique is used in manufacturing facilities and usually not found at the mechanics bench. The way to do it is as follows:

-- Get ghee, avocado or safflower oil at the grocery stores, which have a burn or smoke point near 500F.
-- Place the oil in a pot with high walls and fill to half its height.
-- Make sure that the half point fill on the pot is greater than the hose to fitting mating area. In other words, if the hose needs to slip onto the barb 1.5 inches, then the half point on the pot better be about 2 inches. You don't want to heat more hose or less hose than necessary.
-- Get a turkey or candy sugar thermometer that goes to 250 or 300 deg F and insert in the oil avoiding touching the bottom and walls.
-- Heat the oil to 212 F and insert a piece of hose to be used in the final job, but not the final one.
-- Hold the hose off the bottom of the pan and in the middle of the oil pool if possible for at least 2 minutes.
-- Remove the hose, wipe with rag clean of oil and try to insert into barb.
-- If inner core is still stiff, increase the temperature of the oil to 250F and so on until the inner core is soft and pliable like silicone hoses.
-- Each nylon hose core manufacturer uses different formulations of Nylon (like Nylon 6, 11, 12, 16) and each has a different softening temp."

Last edited by Stewpot; 06-17-2019 at 08:40 AM. Reason: oops, forgot to copy in the "recipe."
Stewpot is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Sedan Forums > W126 S,SE,SEC,SEL,SD,SDL Class

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Mercedes-Benz Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 

Title goes here

close
video goes here
description goes here. Read Full Story
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome