SLS High Pressure Hard Line - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-06-2008, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
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SLS High Pressure Hard Line

So my high pressure hose on my SLS has been leaking steadily since I've owned my car. Now it's at a point where it just hemorrhages hydraulic fluid all over the bottom of the motor and exhaust.

So I purchased a new SLS hose and got underneath to make the repair, but I ran into a problem when I got to the back of the hose at the hardline.

I rounded off the nut for the hardline behind the high pressure hose; This particular line is long as hell and looks expensive.

I plan on cutting the end of the line off, locating a new 12MM fitting, and flaring it on to the existing line.

Does anyone have any experience with this or perhaps a parts car with this line intact? Does anyone have any idea where I can get the 12MM flared fitting? I have yet to find the piece I need at any parts stores.

We're adding a little something to this month's sales contest. As you all know, first prize is a Cadillac Eldorado. Anybody want to see second prize?

Second prize is a set of steak knives.

Third prize is you're fired.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-06-2008, 08:34 AM
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Markus is in the middle of this same problem. He'll chime in shortly with an answer.

Vise Grips didn't work??

Blasphemous Mike
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-06-2008, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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Well, the wrench started walking on one side, so I tried another, and it rounded that side too.

Vice grips just couldn't get enough of a hold on it after it rounded. That thing is in there TIGHT.

I'll see what I can find out too. I honestly think the most cost/time effective method would be to flare on a new fitting. The line is paired up with a low pressure line in rubber isolators down the length of the frame. It would take forever to remove the things, and also subject myself to potentially stripping more fittings.

I'm going to call MB and see if they sell the fitting without the line; that will make this alot easier. Then I can just do the inverted flare with my flair tool. Hopefully it'll provide enough seal.

Marcus, let me know what you end up doing.

We're adding a little something to this month's sales contest. As you all know, first prize is a Cadillac Eldorado. Anybody want to see second prize?

Second prize is a set of steak knives.

Third prize is you're fired.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-06-2008, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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I just got off the phone with MB and the line itself is only $40.

Plus, the isolators are clamshell style anyway, so removing the line shouldn't be too difficult.

I'd still like to hear an alternative if there is one though....

We're adding a little something to this month's sales contest. As you all know, first prize is a Cadillac Eldorado. Anybody want to see second prize?

Second prize is a set of steak knives.

Third prize is you're fired.

Last edited by BigD560; 10-06-2008 at 09:00 AM.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-06-2008, 02:07 PM
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I hope it isn't the same line I had trouble with. I hope its the line that crosses over the engine to another connector on the passenger side. If its the one from the passenger side to the rear of the car, there are actually 2. And good luck getting them out and back in, which is where I'm at. I just need to make time to get to the place that can cut and flare them for me as there is no way without dismantling half the car that I'll get the new lines from my donor car back on there again without doing the cut-n-splice.

I learned when rounding off brake line nuts to go buy a set of flare nut wrenches. Of course, if someone rounded them off before you...your SOL!
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-06-2008, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Markus this is exactly the line we're talking about.

I'm not too scared by it, I just know that if one side stripped, the other probably will too. It's not terribly expensive from MB, $40, and the rubber isolators that holds it too the frame are clamshell style, so the line can be pulled from the low pressure line without having to remove them both.

I thought about going the cut and flare route, but a double flaring kit at $20, finding the correct fitting (12mmx .125 IIRC, has proven to be a real bitch....I spent all weekend searching) at $5 or $6, and the time and effort without the guarantee of a proper seal have me thinking that I'll just buy a new line.

Why wouldn't you use the line off a donor car? Have you attempted to remove the existing line or are you simply speculating as to the difficulty of the job?

I want to dive in, but I don't want any surprises.

We're adding a little something to this month's sales contest. As you all know, first prize is a Cadillac Eldorado. Anybody want to see second prize?

Second prize is a set of steak knives.

Third prize is you're fired.

Last edited by BigD560; 10-06-2008 at 02:50 PM.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-06-2008, 03:22 PM
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I took the line off the donor car. Its a BITCH to get out. Have you been under the car to see what you are in for? Those lines run down the pass side, around/under the suspension, and twist/turn around to the self leveling valve. I got them off my parts car without too much trouble because the engine/trans/diff and most of the other big stuff is already gone. But no way I am dropping all that stuff off my SEC just to put it back in. The hard part is snaking the twists/turns around the suspension/rear subframe. That's why I'm having mine cut/spliced to make reinstall easier. Its not the part thats the challenge, its getting it back in there. Believe me, when it happened and I called Jono, he sighed and said "oh boy"....and he's a fulltime mechanic!
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-06-2008, 08:11 PM
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I hope it flares easier then the fuel line! I had Snap-On's best hand flaring kit and there was No Way in hell that thing was going to flare the fuel line correctly.. ended up finding a guy w/ a hydraulic double end flare machine to get it right.

And Marcus is right, running these lines is a royal PITA...

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-07-2008, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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Well it sounds like the job's going to be a rough ride no matter which route I decide to take....

Flaring it requires removing the line, because according to Jono, I won't be able to achieve the proper flare with a $20 dbl flare kit with the line in the car, and replacing the whole line itself obviously requires removing it as well.

Jono, what if I find the fitting already flared on a small length of hard line, find another slightly larger diameter length of hardline, cut off the rounded off fitting, sleeve the two together, and TIG weld them?

Obviously kind of a rig, but I did that on a Jeep before and it held up great....maybe I can do it for this application.

We're adding a little something to this month's sales contest. As you all know, first prize is a Cadillac Eldorado. Anybody want to see second prize?

Second prize is a set of steak knives.

Third prize is you're fired.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-07-2008, 08:24 AM
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Assuming the weld can stand up to the PSI that hydraulic line is putting out (if its the supply line versus the return line that is). When I rigged the donor car lines up to my car to "test" that the hydraulic valve I had swapped out was working, I saw quite a big of flexing and movement as I moved the lever up and down. So there is quite some pressure in there, whatever it is.
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