Fuel Pump replacement DIY thread/link? - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel Pump replacement DIY thread/link?

Ive tried in vein to search for a step by step fuel pump replacement guide...anyone?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 02:47 PM
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Be carefull....

I thought there would be some instructions in the diy section. If you can't find anything I would be happy to send you a pdf from the MB service CD. It has step-by-step instructions.

The most difficult part of the job is wrenching the rusted screws. I used PB Blaster to penetrate all of the fittings and ended up cutting the mounting bracket screw.

Oh, almost forgot... make sure you have the fuel line cut off and the battery diconnected. I was a real bonehead when I did this job. I was working on my pumps at night with a service light under the car and tried to remove one of the fuel lines without clamping it hoping I could catch the gasoline in a container. This is because I bought a plastic hose clamp that day and it broke after two attempts so I proceeded without it. BIG mistake. I had gas pour all over the hot bulb. I was very fortunate not to go up in flames while traped under the car. I then made a hose clamp with two blocks of plastic (1/2" x 1/2" x 3") and (2) machine screws. It worked great.

I learned a valuable lesson. ALWAYS go by the book on these things and try not to use short cuts... could be dangerous to your health.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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hey, if you could send me a pdf that would be fantastic..

Are the rusted screws a real nightmare? could i not take the whole bracket off in one??
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 03:43 PM
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FP and FF pdf's

Here's a pdf on fuel pump removal for the 300 se. Also a fuel filter removal pdf as well since you are already taking everything apart.

Yes, I have heard folks removing the whole bracket assembly for easier access. However you still are going to have to deal with the rusted bolt (25) holding the bracket together. Like I said I just cut mine off. I used a small cut-off wheel on a drill and it worked great. I then replaced it with a new bolt. Real easy. You only have one pump to contend with on the 300 SE, I had two on my 560 so yours should be simpler. On the other bolts and fasteners make sure you use penetrating oil liberally for a few hours (or even overnight) before tackling the bolts. You'll be glad you did.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 03:45 PM
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forgot the attachment...

Sorry... here are the attached pdf's.

Last edited by graftdesign; 08-06-2007 at 08:10 PM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 05:02 PM
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We put in a new pump and filter yesterday. To pre soak the filter at the end of install (without starting), I turned the key for five minutes, off for another five, and once more on for five.
Beside two good hose clamps, a good idea is to have a large plastic bowl and a vise grip ready just in case (we sure needed them), once the fuel starts running.

I put nothing but Chevron w. Techron into this car, but was surprised at the amount of silt (dirt) in the fuel that was collected. Afterwards we swapped the fuelpump relay with a spare I had and reset it.

In the junkyard, I took off a perfect working air sensor (throttle plate housing) from a 380SEL. My throttle plate has a tiny bend and sticks sometimes. Before I knew better, I had caused this myself by pushing the throttle plate down from the edge. I followed Jonathans advise, and left the unit for 24 hrs. immersed in a bucket of cleaner. It looks like new, with an easy moving and tight closing throttle plate.
Next we'll install the other housing, I have two extra O rings for the bottom of the fuel distributor. I could not find or get any info whether there is a separate gasket under the housing between the stamped surround and the rubber booth underneath.

Will a light coat of silicone do the job?

The plan is to properly connect the housing, and then remove the whole center part together, and tackle the intake manifold for new gaskets and the eight plenum rings. Jonathan's suggestion to use Elring, Wurth, or hylomar sealer will not be forgotten.

I can't find a torque chart on any of the manuals I have. Is there one online somewhere? I would like to know the correct torque values for the air intake manifold, and the air sensor housing (throttle plate) ?
Any other suggestions?

For some reson my files look a bit different from graftdesigns, not sure why.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 07.3-280 fuel pump install.pdf (367.5 KB, 232 views)
File Type: pdf 07.3-275 fuel filter install.pdf (442.6 KB, 179 views)
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 08:34 PM
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Maybe its from an older set of CD's teutone. Is this off the official MB CD?
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 11:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graftdesign
Maybe its from an older set of CD's teutone. Is this off the official MB CD?
Yes it is from the 2 mbusa CD's. I like the illustrations on yours better than the pics.
It's easier to see details. Cheerio
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-31-2007, 12:45 AM
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Yeah, those first diagrams are much better than mine (which are the same as Teutone's)

graftdesign where are yours from??

Ross


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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-31-2007, 05:33 AM
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I purchased mine directly from the Mercedes Benz website ($20). I can't answer why mine is different. I wonder how many other sections are different as well?
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