95 E320 Cranks but No Spark - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Ordered a crank sensor to test first. The no start condition started when I put the rebuilt/swapped engine in the car. The car ran well after the new wiring harness was installed and even ran when I first changed the head gasket on the old engine. Head gasket failure and to much machining is what eventually killed the old engine. The voltage on the coils is 11.8 V DC when the key is in accessory mode. When the starter turns the engine over this voltage drops to about 9-10 volts. What is interesting is that the car will almost start with a freshly charged battery and a 200 amp car starter. Also checked the ground connection on the bell housing and it seems clean and solid.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 01:34 PM
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How is the condition of the voltage regulator? Its pretty quick to inspect and see the contacts on it
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 03:21 PM
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How is the condition of the voltage regulator? Its pretty quick to inspect and see the contacts on it
This will have no impact on the OP's no start issue.

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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 04:23 PM
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. . The no start condition started when I put the rebuilt/swapped engine in the car. . . .
When you changed motors did you install the (known working) coil packs from your original engine into the new one?

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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Yep made sure I used the known good coil packs from the first engine. Ordered a crank shaft sensor. Should be here tomorrow so I'll see if that fixes things.
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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The plot thickens...Installed the new crank sensor and the car would still crank but not start. After installing the new sensor and cranking a few times I checked for diagnostic codes and counted 20 and 22 pluses. My car has the California built in button. When leaving the car key in accessory mode I can hear the throttle body whining a bit (not sure if it is stuck). I held the diagnostic button down for 45 seconds and cleared the codes but the car still would not start. Poking around online I found a manual that indicates codes 20 is "Speed signal not present" and 22 is "Camshaft position sensor signal defective". Not sure if a bad camshaft sensor would cause a no start condition. Out of curiosity I pulled out the batter and ECU to find that it has been reprogrammed by quickchips. At this point I have found an inexpensive ECU to test on the car. Maybe the reprogrammed version is messed up? I have not seen the codes 20/22 after clearing them however the check engine light does come on and off randomly.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 01:52 PM
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How is the condition of the voltage regulator? Its pretty quick to inspect and see the contacts on it


Always check the simple, cheap stuff first.

On the back of the alternator, perhaps behind a plastic screen, you will find two screws that fasten the voltage regulator to the alternator.
Remove the 2 screws and gently twist off the VR.
Examine the two brushes. If they are shorter than 1/2" in length, replace with a new VR- about $30.

There should be a part number on the side of the VR, which you want to match.

This is one of the most common causes of electrical/ignition failure.
And so easy & cheap to fix.
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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I checked the voltage regulator yesterday. The brushes were longer than 0.5" and made solid contact with the rotor. The alternator is fairly new. My brother had replaced this about 2 years ago.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 02:48 PM
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Always check the simple, cheap stuff first.

On the back of the alternator, perhaps behind a plastic screen, you will find two screws that fasten the voltage regulator to the alternator.
Remove the 2 screws and gently twist off the VR.
Examine the two brushes. If they are shorter than 1/2" in length, replace with a new VR- about $30.

There should be a part number on the side of the VR, which you want to match.

This is one of the most common causes of electrical/ignition failure.
And so easy & cheap to fix.
This has nothing to do with the car being in a no start mode. For that matter, you could cut the serpentine belt and start the car.

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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Got the new(used) ECU in today. Installed it plugged up the battery. Turned the key on to accessory mode and waited 4 minutes for the ECU to initialize. Turned the key off then tried to crank the car. Unfortunately the car would still crank over but not start. At a loss as to the problem now. Anyone have some ideas?
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