1993 300e PIN 8 CODE 13 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Mar 2019
Vehicle: 1993 300E
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1993 300e PIN 8 CODE 13

Hey guys thought I'd try this again, my car has a surging idle (+/-1000 rpms) and backfires and smell of gas a couple minutes after starting. and if i drive it warm it'll stall coming to a stop. Fuel system was tested fine and the only code the car has is pin 8 code 13 for CTP switch (M16/1s2 or M16/2s2) intermittent contact. I have already switched the throttle actuator and e-gas module with known working units from my other working car. what could this be?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 01:16 PM
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Have the throttle actuator and upper harness been changed?

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jayare View Post
Have the throttle actuator and upper harness been changed?

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Yes, upper and lower harness are updated as well as a 2004 throttle actuator.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guys, just thought I'd update the results so far. I replaced the mass airflow sensor and the car is back to "normal" to say the least. Still has a weird misfire and low idle but fluctuating idle is at least dealt with. What's odd is that this is the second brand new Bosch mass air sensor I've had to replace in two months. I still have the pin 8 code 13 for closed throttle position intermittent contact which i suspect is the reason for the low idle since I don't have a vacuum leak or anymore eco-junk wiring on the car. Anyone think it could be the actual ECU? That's honestly the only thing left I haven't changed or switched over from my other working w124's since they're different part numbers.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 07:49 PM
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Date registered: Oct 2006
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Check two places.

One, your throttle cable...make sure it is adjusted properly or the CTP contact (micro switch) won't be correct,
thus causing wrong reading of your ISA.
Check out W124 zone for factory manual at 30-1010D.pdf
or visit
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/M...I/30-1010D.pdf

Second, your purge valve (close to your ABS module)...given the age of your car,
I don't think it is "pumping" properly if there is no any service records, so your idle might behave strangely.
This purge valve pumps, thus pulling gas vapor from your tank and sending it into combustion chamber
when the motor is hot and the coolant temp reaches the valve activation threshold.
Obstruction or blockage or even malfunction (working all the time i.e. open vent route) all cause your uneven throttle control.

Good luck.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for some direction. I already read some forums on the purge valve possibly being bad so I replaced it with a brand new one with little to no change in the idle behavior. Although I did notice I was able to blow air both ways through the old unit when the new one was only one way. I'll check the throttle linkages and cable and adjust them if I see anything out of spec.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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New update on the car. It took a while but to receive but I bought a used ECM from eBay with the same part numbers with a description that it was taken out of a car without any codes and idled to spec. Hooked it up yesterday and turned on ignition; Dash lights turned on normal and then I checked codes. Now numerous codes are on pin 8 that wont clear (4,8,11,12,13,23,31, 37,39,41 and keeps going). I started the car and it started like a brand new car without any trouble or high idle. When warm it still has 500rpm at idle but idle is smooth and misfires are gone. Even went out for a city drive and on freeway and I swear the car felt amazing to drive. Come back to check codes and none cleared. Is there a hard reset of the ECM? I cant clear codes to get a "1" to reset like the manual says.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 07:56 PM
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Great Job...ECM might really be your problem.
Regarding to your DTC, you need to clear your trouble codes one by one...
There is no way you could clear all at one time.

When you read a trouble code, you need to clear it right after that, then start reading the next code, then clear it...going on like this cycle.
When all codes are cleared one by one this way, you got one flash.

Once you got one flash light, you could reset HFM (ECM), but still need to follow factory directives.
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