E320 1995 Sedan Drop In Speakers? - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #21 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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there's not really any room up front for an amp, its pretty packed behind the dash. you neglected to mention that you'll need 4 RCA patch cords from the stereo head to the amp, too, not just power, ground, amp control, and 4 pairs of speaker wires.
Right! My head unit has rca speaker outputs, so I'll need a pair of those. Then I need to tap into 4 speakers can I do that from the head unit just splice the wires from the and disconnect it from the head unit. So it goes from HEAD Unit to amp to speakers. Do you think it would be ok to not rewire the speakers and two just tap into them? Why do you say 4 rca patch cords and not 2?
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post #22 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Take that back you mean front and rear. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
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post #23 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 06:29 PM
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best place to run a wiring bundle from front to rear is along the right side of the transmission hump. remove the passenger side floor, remove the passenger seat, remove the back seat bottom, then remove the door sills, and you can run the wires under the carpet pushed up against the trans. hump...


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post #24 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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I'll figure out wiring it now I just gotta buy the kit and the amp, what is a good RMS rating amp to get. Like for A combined power demand of 320w rms.
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post #25 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 10:18 PM
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thats not a demand, that's the max limit for the speakers above which sustained power would fry them.

i'm way out of touch with car stereo, last amp I installed was an a/d/s 'plate' 440i.


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post #26 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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Oh geez so would a 4 channel amp with about 280-300watts RMS combined do the job just fine? I really don't want to fry them.
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post #27 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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thats not a demand, that's the max limit for the speakers above which sustained power would fry them.

i'm way out of touch with car stereo, last amp I installed was an a/d/s 'plate' 440i.
Ok I ended up going with the Kenwood KAC-304 600 Watt Class D Bridgeable Multi-Channel Amplifier
Found used on eBay for $40.
It is rated 50 Watts RMS x 4 Channels at 4 Ohms. But these have been dynod on amp tester and do 60 Watts RMS x 4 Channels at 4 Ohms.
Total of 600 Peak
I think it is a great one because it is a Kenwood and will power my speakers about 3 times as much as my build it amp. There is also no fear of completely overpowering my speakers, cause it just can't push more than 60.
I am gonna wire it in and am thinking about putting it somewhere in the passenger footwell. Maybe under the metal alarm protector or all the way at the end or something. I really don't want to take 8 wires to the trunk of my car, I guess I can take my passenger seat out to rewire my subwoofer. Cause honestly I routed my previous wires through the door sills. But I doubt 4 gauge will fit in them.
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post #28 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LeftCoastGeek View Post
best place to run a wiring bundle from front to rear is along the right side of the transmission hump. remove the passenger side floor, remove the passenger seat, remove the back seat bottom, then remove the door sills, and you can run the wires under the carpet pushed up against the trans. hump...


Hey just a quick question so Iím going to wire the amp in, but I donít want to touch the door speakers, so if I just rerouted my front and rear speakers to my new amp would it affect the door speakers? Do the door speakers go to the head unit or take signal from the front or rear?


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post #29 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 09:05 AM
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the door speakers are connected to the activebass amp in the trunk. that in turn gets its input from the front speaker wiring. you will probably want to unplug taht amp so you don't overpower it


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post #30 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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the door speakers are connected to the activebass amp in the trunk. that in turn gets its input from the front speaker wiring. you will probably want to unplug taht amp so you don't overpower it
Ok, so there is no way I can retain the door speakers?
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