KE-Jetronic Lambda control (duty cycle) adjustment - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #21 of 72 (permalink) Old 08-24-2017, 07:30 AM
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On STAR TekInfo there are documents providing engine "Test and Adjustment Data", and the one for variants of the M104 is attached. Its specification for "on-off ratio" (duty cycle) for a cold engine with throttle closed is 30%. Similar documents for the M119 and a variant of the M102 (M102.985) also specify 30%. Documents for all other listed engines specify 70% or 85% (California version).

So, for a W124 Mercedes specify closed-throttle duty cycle values of 30%, 70% and 85% -- the applicable specification depends on the particular vehicle and may not be known to the owner. However, all vehicles give an engine-off wide-open-throttle duty cycle of 20%, so I suggest this be used as a check to ensure that duty cycle measurements have the correct "glass empty" reference used by Mercedes.
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File Type: pdf Test and Adjustment Data Engine M104.pdf (30.9 KB, 68 views)

Last edited by bobterry99; 08-24-2017 at 08:19 AM. Reason: Add missing attachment
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post #22 of 72 (permalink) Old 08-25-2017, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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I want to announce that I discontinue my participation in this thread. Instead of explaning why, I refer to this thread in the 129 forum: https://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...uty-cycle.html … (read up from post #26). … In post #31 of that thread is another link for further clarification.

In case of doubts about the validity of the content of my posts here in this thread … it‘s well thought out and based on experiences with the engines in question here from the beginning. As a young design engineer I was personally involved in them before they came off the production lines.

For further information I can still be contacted via PM. …

H.D.
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post #23 of 72 (permalink) Old 08-25-2017, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H.D. View Post
I want to announce that I discontinue my participation in this thread. Instead of explaning why, I refer to this thread in the 129 forum: https://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...uty-cycle.html … (read up from post #26). … In post #31 of that thread is another link for further clarification.

In case of doubts about the validity of the content of my posts here in this thread … it‘s well thought out and based on experiences with the engines in question here from the beginning. As a young design engineer I was personally involved in them before they came off the production lines.

For further information I can still be contacted via PM. …

H.D.
VERY sorry to read that. I urge you to take the high road and simply ignore the ignorant poster.

The irony is that Georgia (Atlanta) was at the heart of the Confederate States of America. Talk about the pot calling the kettle black.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_po...e_kettle_black
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post #24 of 72 (permalink) Old 08-25-2017, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by LostInTime View Post
I urge you to take the high road and simply ignore the ignorant poster.
Benzworld is a discussion forum where members freely exchange thoughts and ideas within the constraints of its rules. If a member repeatedly violated this spirit and attempted to dictate to you where you could post, would you not think they were acting in a manner reminiscent of Hitler/Stalin/Trump (take your pick)? If not, then this Pennsylvania Yankee suggests you shorten your username to "Lost".

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In case of doubts about the validity of the content of my posts here in this thread …
...Look no further than the attached screenshot.

Presently there is not one single resource -- a Benzworld post, a YouTube video, a web article -- that correctly explains the mixture adjustment procedure for all M119 or M104 engines. If you fix the problems with your posts here and on the R129 forum that need will be addressed.
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post #25 of 72 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 02:23 PM
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"Pull off the vacuum line between the throttle valve and the regeneration valve of the fuel evaporation system at the regeneration valve and block it."


Anyone got a picture of where this vacuum line is?
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post #26 of 72 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 02:33 PM
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Here ya go
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post #27 of 72 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 08:30 AM
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I'm confused by all this.

A lot of info, but hardly clear at all.

E.g. "Remove the plug from the adjustment tower (if it’s still in there)...."

How? Had to search other threads that you gotta basically hack the top of it to remove that ball bearing. What a stupid design by MB.


And still not clear for M104 engines. At idle, should it be 30% or 70%?


And: "With the throttle fully opened and the air sensor plate not deflected..."

Stupid question, but what is the air sensor plate?

These instructions seem a lot more clear to me: Beer, Bolts, Volts, and Bits: KE Jetronic Fuel Mixture Adjustment
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post #28 of 72 (permalink) Old 10-15-2018, 10:50 AM
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There are various ways to remove that steel ball in the tower. I've read quite a few different approaches. The dealer must have done it in my white TE and this new-to-me TE had it already done by someone. I know that in my parts box is a small tower with a gasket, new. I don't remember how or why I acquired that. It would seem to me if the tower unscrews that easily, the attack would best be performed off the car.

In any event, a lot of people confuse how Mercedes chose to do the duty cycle, i.e., the percentage of the cycle they used during the pulse period. Even people buying duty cycle meters get confused at what they are looking at. I just use a big analog meter on volts, hooked up to #2 and #3. I figured out what my cycle voltage was (with a digital VOM) and did the formula. My voltage is 13.7 found between #2 and #6, if memory serves me correctly (that voltage never seems to change). I take the voltage I found between #2 & #3 (which averages 7 volts) and divide that by 13.7.....I get .51094891. Then for percentage, I do this; 1.0-.51094891=49%

Ideally, my needle will swing from 6.5 to 7.5 with 7 volts as the median average. When your needle swings like this, it indicates your O2 sensor is at least working. Cars with well worn AF potentiometers will not be able to hold your adjusted duty cycle reading for very long. These instruction are for the M103.

Kevin

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post #29 of 72 (permalink) Old 10-16-2018, 05:09 PM
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my m103, someone had cut a slot on the side of the tower just below the balls 'equator', probably using a dremel cutoff disk or similar... this apparently allowed the ball/plug to be popped out, maybe with a small flat screwdriver?

the tower can't easily be unscrewed as it uses special screws with one way slots and breakaway heads.


the air sensor plate is the disk in the airflow meter that depresses with airflow... its directly above the throttle body. you can see it here ...



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post #30 of 72 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 05:28 AM
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I haven't examined the in-car screws, as the ones with the extra tower are just Allens. I've seen the procedure with the cut on one side written up and it is, yes, to pry the ball up. Glad this was done before me on both TE's.

My original white TE screw adjustment was always rough....IOW, it was not smooth to turn-easy to do either too much or too little while adjusting. I sprayed some oil down there and it had no effect. This new-to-me TE is a little smoother, but it's a lot younger in miles.....

Kevin
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