1995 E300d sudden power drop/no-start - Page 9 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #81 of 193 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 10:20 AM
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1996-1999 W210 pump is not the same. They use electronic shutoff.

OM603 pump is closest, but US versions were all turbo charged so you might see some difference.

I'd take it to the Bosch auto service center first. Then, based on their assessment, find the parts you need.

That will be the cheaper approach vs. merely throwing parts at it.
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post #82 of 193 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, I think at this point it might be flatbed time.

I spoke to that Bosch center (thank you for link BTW) and the service manager was kinda meh on the diesels.

I'm going to call around town and compare some shops - usually a city this size has 1-2 indy dealers with a guy or two in back who REALLY knows these diesels. Atlanta had 1 that was great, if you didn't mind the front-of-shop staff gauntlet.

Considering this part will dictate whether or not the car gets junked, I want to be somewhat comfortable with the shop. I've got a good friend who is a diesel truck mechanic back home, and I have seen many times what goes on in the back with the 20-something overworked/underpaid greasemonkeys under the hood.
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post #83 of 193 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by sbaert View Post
That will be the cheaper approach vs. merely throwing parts at it.
I sold my pump for $100 each and I can get them at the yard for $40. Bosch is going to charge many times that, they will not take the pump off without a rebuild and a bench test + R&R labor + . He's already done most of the work. Putting a known working pump on to check to see if it is the pump is going to be the quickest and cheapest resolution. I have a feeling if he pulls the back off the IP he will find parts in places they don't belong.
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post #84 of 193 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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What yard? I'm back in ATL area in 2 weeks for a bit on a work trip. I lived there for 7 years. I'd totally take a $100 risk on this.
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post #85 of 193 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 10:53 AM
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What yard? I'm back in ATL area in 2 weeks for a bit on a work trip. I lived there for 7 years. I'd totally take a $100 risk on this.
Pull a part, when you can find them.
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post #86 of 193 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Well, two things:

1) ELR responds to voltage. It's actually kinda scary when you have it out. Jumps off the bench almost.

2) OVP currently in car is a Siemens unit, with intact single blade fuse on top of it.

I can't see too much in the back of the pump, but no metal shards or glaring carnage is apparent at the moment.
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post #87 of 193 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 12:04 PM
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I still think you should pull the delivery valve stubs and check the springs.

From what you've described, you're getting fuel at injectors 1-4 but nothing on 5-6.

At least that's what I would do.

That 32 point socket is not that difficult to find.
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post #88 of 193 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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@sbaert - will order socket and washers/rings.

If that fails to solve this problem, I'm going to reassess.

Consider this a preliminary BOLO for a 606 or 603 pump.
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post #89 of 193 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Ok - found a good used pump @ the Benz Store (Benz Store | Mercedes Benz Parts and Accesories | Buford Hwy Chamblee Georgia - Home) for $250 + shipping. Ordering it. Based on my conversations around mercedes shops in phoenix, I'm going to be paying at least $200 for a diag. I'd rather put that money into an IP. I feel comfortable changing it out, seems pretty straightforward.

Have a DV seal kit and socket on the way from Mercedes Source.

I think I am going to use it to re-seal the "new to me" pump so it all gets done at once.

now just need the part to hold the pump shaft in place.

If they don't have the holding bolt in the pump that is shipped, is there a way to turn the pump shaft to get it right then align the teeth through the Oil fill cap?
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post #90 of 193 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 03:00 PM
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You will need the timing basket as well as the IP locking tool.

That is the only way to ensure your IP timing does not get messed up.

IP locking tool is MB p/n#601-589-05-21-00

I can't remember the p/n# for the basket just now.

Don't forget the large o-ring that sits between the IP and the mount on the engine side.
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