crap. i was thinking the price was a little too low, and possibly fishy. I'm not sure how the body is, but he's also trading in a subaru that blew up on him, so he's getting $300 for it as a trade, $2300 for the benz including this discount.
1. how does one go about seeing if the 4matic engages?
2. was does TC stand for? transfer case?
3. can you pull codes yourself or does a dealer have to do this?
What other possible issues might be going on, and how can I advise him to check on them?
Thanks for the help and info
This is a perfect time of yr for forcing the 4matic to work; find some wet leaves on the road somewhere, drive over them and goose it. The rear end should just start to slip and then the 4matic system will compensate for the skid and correct. It's all over before you could normally react if it's working properly.
What you want to avoid are 4matics that seem to engage at low speeds with a thump or grinding noise-also engaging in slow speed turns with a grabbing sensation. Even though the 4amtic routinely engages at slow speeds, it should not be that noticeable.
Yes, the 4matic light on the lower right portion of your dash can also serve as the code light. You can pull the codes and you can clear the codes-very simple procedure.
Yes, TC is short for transfer case. I already told you how to check the TC in another post and it's VERY important that you do this.
Like I said, some owners remove the bulb in the dash for the 4matic light, rather than work through the problem.
No one I know that has a 4matic over 125K is running one that hasn't had the TC replaced/rebuilt. It's critical that you find out when or if it has been done. The aluminum piston/seal inside the TC's were self-destructive and the hydraulic fluid would leak inside the TC, mixing with the ATF. In this scenario, the TC is toast without rebuilding or replacement.