'88 300 CE trunk won't open - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-12-2006, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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'88 300 CE trunk won't open

Please, does anyone know how to open from inside?
The key enters in horizontal position but won't turn.
I can push the button but lock does not open.
I am using the right key.
One curiousity is that I have been also having troubles in other locks and the ignnition switch.
The locksmith somehow adjusted the ignition switch and now works fine.
He told me that the key was warn out by the use during 18 years.
I have a never used key and works fine at the ignition but not at both doors and the trunk.
I thank your help.
Miguel
Buenos Aires Argentina
1984 380SEC
1988 300 CE
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-12-2006, 01:50 PM
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This same thing happened to me with my trunk- the key hole is stuck in the horizontal position.

I don't have any words of wisdom for you... All I did was tinker with it for a while. I stuck the key in, jiggled it around, pushed the key knob in all the way, jiggled it some more, and it eventually turned. Maybe I just got lucky!

I haven't had any problems with it since.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-12-2006, 11:11 PM
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Get some good penetrating lube to spray in there, something like "PB blaster" which is supposedly magnetically charged. I use it all the time. All of your locks should be sprayed inside with lube every once and a while.

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-13-2006, 01:06 AM
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Trunk (Boot) Key

In the horizontal position, the boot (trunk) is deadlocked. The central locking will not unlock it; only the right key will do that.

With respect, "Are you using the right key?"

My 300ce was supplied with several keys. One key would open doors and allow one to drive the car, but it would not allow access to a deadlocked boot. The idea was that you could give that key to a hotal flunky and he couldn't get into the boot and find the Duetschmarks you were due to pay into your Swiss account at journey's end.

... or something like that.

You should be able to get a complete key set from the dealer but it may cost a bit.

RayH
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-25-2006, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by myfirstbenz
Get some good penetrating lube to spray in there, something like "PB blaster" which is supposedly magnetically charged. I use it all the time. All of your locks should be sprayed inside with lube every once and a while.
Dear Sir/Madam:

Thanks for the timely advice (I wasn't the original poster, but have a similar problem with a 1991 300E. Where should the lubricant be sprayed? On the trunk latch? On the key. My key turns without any problem BUT pushing the trunk lid button won't open the trunk UNLESS I punch the button several times. Thanks for any suggestions you might have. Brett
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-25-2006, 01:25 PM
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mfuchs,

if the key is worn then apart from the advice to lubricate the locking mechanisms you might also consider getting some new keys cut. I did this for my 1988 300SL.

These keys were cut and supplied my Mercedes Benz and I had to give them the vehicle vin and proof of my identity etc. However after a couple of weeks my new keys arrived and cost £9.98 each. That`s less than US $15.00 each!
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-25-2006, 03:08 PM
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Yes, by all means get a brand new key from the dealer who can cut one to fit if you give him the VIN. I've done this with 3 W124s and each time the key has worked perfectly.

The lock cylinders do need lubrication but I never use liquid lubricants like WD-40, Blaster, etc. Liquid lubricants will work but they leave a wet residue that attracts and holds grit and dust. The long term view is not good. Instead, use a lock cylinder lubricant which is just a powdered graphite dust. Some brands come as a liquid that uses alcohol as the base. The alcohol evaporates quickly leaving only the graphite powder. Push the tip of the lubricant container into the key slot, forcing the door open. Squirt away. The cylinders on my 88 260E were marvelously improved using this method.

I don't know what your locksmith did but there is no adjustment of the lock cylinders. None.

To save wear and tear on my driver's door lock cylinder I use the trunk or passenger side whenever it makes sense. My wife likes it when I open the door for her anyway!
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-26-2006, 08:59 AM
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always a gentleman, augapfel.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstbenz View Post
Get some good penetrating lube to spray in there, something like "PB blaster" which is supposedly magnetically charged. I use it all the time. All of your locks should be sprayed inside with lube every once and a while.
Thanks myfirstbenz!! I had the same symptoms as mfuchs. After reading your reply I bought some "3 in 1 Dry Lock Lube." $3.76 for a tiny spray can at Walmart. I just sprayed it into the tiny key hole door, worked the key a bit, and it worked like new. Hope it lasts. I don't want to have to do surgery on the lock. I have enough things to fix on my '92 300E.

Thanks, again!
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 06:21 PM
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The last response to this thread before yours XSWG was 13 years ago. Since then a lot has happened vis a vis locks. Dry lubricant seems to be the only thing being recommended and even at that, only for temporary use. If you have a lock that needs help from graphite (especially if its the ignition cylinder) you need to order a new lock cylinder for your car from Mercedes quickly. If it fails you are screwed. The reason why you want to order from MB is that they use your VIN to create a cylinder that matches the original on for the car. If your car has never seen a lock replacement then the cylinder will match all the keys you have now. The new cylinder will also come with a brand new key.

Getting a failed cylinder out is a terrible job (search for threads/videos if you are not familiar with this nightmare). Replacing one that still works (even one that works barely) will take ten minutes.

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