New or rebuilt injectors for a OM617? - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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New or rebuilt injectors for a OM617?

I tried to do some research about the pros and cons of replacing the injectors with new ones vs rebuilding the old ones, but I didn’t find much information about it.

In terms of price, it seems cheaper to me buying the new ones rather than paying an injection shop to rebuild the current ones, but I am not sure about the quality of new injectors because some claim they are made in India and quality is not consistent (although no one shows proof of that).

So, what do you think about new injectors, are they any good? Or is it better to get the ones that I have rebuilt even if that cost more?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 12:33 AM
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I would buy new injectors. Yes, the new stuff aren't as rugged as the originals, but I have made peace with having to potentially replace nozzles more often. However, I had injectors rebuilt at a Bosch centre, and they were never the same - more than one were cracked after being repaired, one wouldn't stop bending its plunger etc.

These injector bodies do get old eventually.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 12:29 AM
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These injector bodies do get old eventually.
Injector bodies are not wear items. Over-heating and over-torquing (of the body or tube nut) are the main causes of damage.
I would trust reman injectors over any new ones, because they have skilled eyes testing them instead of a factory machine.

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made in India and quality is not consistent (although no one shows proof of that)
Everything made in India is garbage quality. Materials are expensive, labor is the cheap resource there.
Mahindra and Royal Enfield are good examples, everyone says they are overbuilt. Because they have to be to compensate for the low quality materials and poor craftsmanship. I know this first hand.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 09:46 PM
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I just bought and installed “new rebuilt injectors”. I bought them on eBay from “parts container”. Who is the seller....so this didn’t fix my problem, but... when my car is running good, it runs better. When it’s running rough, it is still the same/ rough... I’m starting a new thread in a minute or two about my next choices on how to fix it, but....they are easy to install, and I had new braided fuel return hose to put on anyways. Good luck.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-24-2018, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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I just bought and installed “new rebuilt injectors”. I bought them on eBay from “parts container”. Who is the seller....so this didn’t fix my problem, but... when my car is running good, it runs better. When it’s running rough, it is still the same/ rough... I’m starting a new thread in a minute or two about my next choices on how to fix it, but....they are easy to install, and I had new braided fuel return hose to put on anyways. Good luck.
That is the reason I will replace my injectors (after testing them of course); the car has a nasty occasional shake at idle that doesn’t manifest when is running on diesel purge. Some people suggest that's an indicator the injectors could be clogged. There is also a bit of grey/pale blue smoke despite the fact that doesn’t burn oil nor coolant.

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Originally Posted by Forcedinduction View Post
Injector bodies are not wear items. Over-heating and over-torquing (of the body or tube nut) are the main causes of damage.
I would trust reman injectors over any new ones, because they have skilled eyes testing them instead of a factory machine.
That is what I fear. They could have been rebuild at some point in the past and perhaps were over tightened. I don’t know and won’t know until they are rebuilt. A number of items in my car were over tightened by the previous shop that repaired and maintained the car.

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Originally Posted by PlaneCrazy View Post
I would buy new injectors. Yes, the new stuff aren't as rugged as the originals, but I have made peace with having to potentially replace nozzles more often. However, I had injectors rebuilt at a Bosch centre, and they were never the same - more than one were cracked after being repaired, one wouldn't stop bending its plunger etc.

These injector bodies do get old eventually.
In case of getting new ones, I would have them tested for both, spray pattern and pop pressure cause one never knows. It seems that one has to take extra precautions when replacing something these days. Quality is so inconsistent; some things are so well made while others are worthy of shame.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-25-2018, 09:17 AM
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I have the same symptoms with my car. It didn’t resolve with the replacement injectors. I will be ordering a new fuel pump today, and when it comes in I’ll also clean out the strainer and maybe the tank as well. Might as well limit my exposure to diesel to one weekend. Good luck.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-25-2018, 04:27 PM
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the car has a nasty occasional shake at idle that doesn’t manifest when is running on diesel purge. Some people suggest that's an indicator the injectors could be clogged. There is also a bit of grey/pale blue smoke despite the fact that doesn’t burn oil nor coolant.
Symptoms of retarded injection timing.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-25-2018, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Symptoms of retarded injection timing.
Thanks for the input. That’s something that I will have to pay someone to check because I don’t know much about the injection timing. I guess is time to do some research.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 10:39 PM
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What controls the injection timing? Is it controlled( advanced/ retarded) with the vacuum system, or is it a mechanical adjustment? I’m not in the “know” yet with this motor or system....and why would it be variable if it were a mechanical issue that requires adjustment? I was hoping mine was an injector that was sticking..
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 10:55 PM
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The timing is controlled by the throttle and the governor. The pump reference is done by rotating the fuel pump towards or away from the engine. According to MB specs, the injection pump timing should be adjusted to 15°ATDC at idle, or 24°BTDC at full-throttle, depending on the fuel pump and method you use.


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