R12 to R134 Conversion - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2014, 02:24 AM
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I'm no expert... but I have done a lot of A/C work on my and friends vehicles.
If the compressor comes with oil as per spec then you should be good to go. If oil is spilled/leaks out during installation then that oil needs to be replaced. You can add what is needed to the dryer via pour container or you can buy a 1-2 ounce tap-able can of oil that can be added through the low pressure (suction) side using manifold/tap hoses after vacuuming or while the vehicle is running and with the compressor engaged. I generally use oil that has UV dye in it so that leaks (if any) may be somewhat easier to detect/trace.

Last edited by dennislarock; 10-09-2014 at 02:31 AM.
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2014, 05:34 AM Thread Starter
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howardeng,

I put 1 oz of oil in the receiver/dryer, and 240 cc in the York. That makes the total about 270 cc, which (according to the FSM), is in the middle of the acceptable tolerance range. Since the oil travels through the system anyway, you can probably get by just putting all the 8 oz in the compressor.

It's been working fine since the work was done. I ended up replacing the York bottom and front shaft seals, new receiver/dryer, new expansion valve, and all rubber seals. Flushed, filled with ester oil, and found a cheap source of R12.

Bingo!







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Originally Posted by howardeng View Post
78 280CE, did you ever find your answer on the amount of oil to add? I am replacing my york 210 on my 1984 280CE euro. the service manual says 240cc (~8oz). There is no reference to additional oil for the drier replacement. There is a reference to adding oil when you have a Delco compressor (40cc), though. This made me wonder if I need to add any oil to the drier, since I have a York.

So my question to the experts out there: When replacing a York 210 compressor and drier (and expansion valve), after a complete flush, do I need to add oil TO the drier or does filling the york compressor per specs all I need to do?

thanks
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2014, 08:11 AM
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Just a note about my experience with a replacement compressor - after a few months it sounded like the water pump failed, a horrendous screeching noise. Couldn't be that, I'd replaced it a year ago. Sounded like maybe the AC idler pulley, which had some play, so I replaced it. Still screeching, and getting worse. Replaced the AC clutch bearing next, screeching seemed to go away but then came right back. Turned out to be contact between the AC clutch and the replacement compressor. Apparently there is a bit of end play on the main shaft and the magnetic pulling action of the clutch moved the shaft in until the clutch made contact. I could tell by rub marks on the inside of the clutch. Maybe somebody left out a thrust washer?

Fixed by turning the contacting area of clutch down a bit on a lathe. Literally a 2 minute job. IF you have a lathe.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2014, 03:36 PM
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thanks for the replies and advice. I just thought it was strange that there was no reference to adding oil when changing the drier on the york compressor system. Should be running on Saturday!
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 06:01 PM
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Enviro-safe

Quote:
Originally Posted by Derekwh View Post
Rather than going with R134 you could use Enviro-safe, I just got six cans off ebay for $30. It seems to work pretty well. And I got a receiver-dryer from BMA Auto Parts for $23, it is for an '82 300CD but they are probably the same or similar.

Enviro-safe is a hydorcarbon LPG and is flammable. See section 3 of the MSDS. EPA regulations prohibit the use of flammable refrigerants in mobile HVAC (MVAC) systems. Avoid it.
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File Type: pdf Enviro-safe MSDS.pdf (43.9 KB, 88 views)
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-17-2015, 11:31 PM
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Propane butane mix makes a better refrigerant than even R12. With the ETS bypassed, Recirculate on, I was able to get 15F vent temps on a hot day. Could have got cooler but it was too cold for comfort.
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