Trunk Won't open - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Trunk Won't open

Hey guys,

I have a 2004 SL600 and I am having an issue with the trunk. I can only open the trunk manually by sticking the key into the keyhole and turning it, then opening it normally. However, I can't open the trunk with the normal latch under the third brake light, the button on the key, or the button on the driverside door. I can hear the mechanism moving, but the trunk doesn't open. I have disassembled the trunk and replaced the trunk actuator (with a used one from ebay) and the same thing happens. I watch the mechanism move while it was removed from the trunk but plugged in. The weird thing is that it was opening fine with the key and driver door button until about 3 weeks ago. I have been trying to figure it out since then.

If anyone can help me figure out how to open it from the key or driver door, that would be great. If you also have an idea as to why the handle under the third brake light does nothing (all wires are plugged in), let me know. I have made a youtube video explaining my situation to help you better understand:

Thanks!
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 07:04 PM
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Try resetting the PSE pump - pull fuse 71 on the rear panel for a few minutes.

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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How do I access the rear panel? I tried looking in the compartment behind the passenger seat but there is no fuse box there. Do I have to remove something to get to it?
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 09:51 AM
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Look again

The area behind the passenger seat has 2 covers, the top one you removed, and the front one you missed. Move the seat all the way forward so you can see it. It pops off from the top, the lower edge has 2 blades that fit into slots below. The fourth or fifth fuse from the right side of the car (looking forward) is a 20 amp yellow. Use the fuse puller in the tool kit or a small needle nose pliers to pull it out toward the front of the car. Wait ten minutes and put it back in. You'll hear all sorts of noises. When they stop, all your air pump powered accessories should now function. Mine did. Hope this helps.
post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. I opened the compartment behind the passenger seat (sort of like a glovebox type) and there is a black felt compartment inside there. I see two tabs or little blades I can pull, but I can't seem to see how that cover comes off. Do you have any photos that may help me better understand?
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 01:21 PM
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Pull the tabs forward (toward the front of the car) and the lift up on them so that the panel pull up.

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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So I pulled the fuse and put it back in with no luck. The fuse was a 30 amp green fuse, not a 20amp yellow one. I put the old trunk actuator back in, and the first 5 times I tried to open it, everything worked! (Key fob button, driver door button, and trunk latch). However, I could only get it to work those 5 times. Now, I am back to square 1 where the only way to open the trunk is by inserting the key and manually turning it. Do you think it could be a wiring issue? The car now shows "close trunk lid" warning message even though the trunk is fully closed.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 11:50 AM
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The latch is both electrically and pneumatically (air pressure) operated. Since pulling fuse 71 made it work for a while, it means the latch has air leaks in it. When the PSE pump recognizes that one of its air circuits is running too long, it shuts it off. In order to reset it, you have to pull the fuse.

Air leaks int he latch are very common. Since you have already gone to the trouble of removing the latch and replacing it with a used one (which seems to also be leaking), I suggest you try to repair it yourself. Remove the latch and use some epoxy to thoroughly seal all the holes where there are ball bearings. These are air passages that are supposed to be sealed with those ball bearings, but the plastic cracks and leaks. Also, there is a diaphragm in a plastic housing that clips together, The plastic clips on it can deteriorate and allow it to leak. You can epoxy it, or do as I did and secure it with zip ties. Here are some photos of what I did with mine. Ignore the notes about soldering a bailign wire - I also had broken plastic where the mechanical lever attaches so I had to fix that, too:




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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the detailed description and pics! I actually just had a breakthrough - I removed the yellow air line from the actuator and pressed the trunk button to make sure there was air pressure. It was blowing air and wouldn't stop unless I put my finger over the end of the line, creating internal pressure which shut the pump off. I did this a few times and then reconnected the yellow air line to the trunk actuator. The trunk would open 2-3 times and then it would go back to not opening. I am assuming there is a very slight air leak in the yellow line somewhere which reduces the air pressure in the line to a level that is not significant enough to unlatch the trunk. Now I just need to find out how I'm going to locate the leak as the yellow air line runs through the trunk and down into the pse pump.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 02:35 PM
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You said that putting your finger over the detached line made the pump shut off. That tells me there is no leak in the line. The pump runs until it builds up enough pressure and then it shuts off. When there is a leak, it continues to run. Since it shuts of with your find over it, then there is no leak. But when you plug it into the latch and operate it, it doesn't shut off, therefore the leak is in the latch. Trust me - your latch is leaking. It happens to all of them. Use epoxy and seal it up and you'll fix it.

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