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-   -   Anyone familiar with trunk lock system? (https://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230-sl-class/3019148-anyone-familiar-trunk-lock-system.html)

Dudeman 05-15-2019 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonnydas (Post 17712450)
Consumer battery is new and works fine for all other systems. I trickle charge to full once every other week or if car is not driven for 2 or more days. No issue with battery just want to keep it healthy. Battery charge controller behind trunk lining near battery is good. Charge controller relays are also good. Pneumatic pump is fine as locks are good and I always keep seat bolster dials to '0' so no air leaks from pneumatic system on seat as they have usual leaking bolster inflator bags.

Any ideas anyone?

I really don't have a direct answer, although the answer that @ DLAFEVER posted is probably the most plausible one, but I just wanted to chime in on the need to trickle charge your consumer battery.

I have a SL550, and previously had an 05 SL500, and never had to trickle charge the battery, even after it going unused for 2 or more weeks. If the battery is in good condition (the battery in my SL500 was 4 years old when the car got wrecked), you shouldn't have to go to those extremes. If the battery looses enough charge over a 2 week period that the consumers don't come on line, then there's something wrong with it, or it's worn out, or you have something draining it.

Did you make any modifications to the MOST system? Replaced or added some devices? If that is the case, it's possible that your MOST system is not going to sleep properly, draining your battery. A short, or a lamp that's always on could do the same thing.

Bottom line, under normal circumstances, you shouldn't have to do any of those things with your consumer battery.

Win Kausch 05-17-2019 09:59 AM

As a followup, I installed the new latch assy and tested the system. Latch performs as expected and the draw down feature was restored. The problem was I still got a trunk open warning. I removed the latch and verified that the latch position switch continuity for both the open and closed positions were working. I jumpered pin 1 and 3 on the harness to verify the input to the logic circuit worked. Every time I re-installed the latch it would give the trunk open warning. Problem was the new latch came without the plastic socket end for the mechanical release rod. Even though I measured the old rod length before installing the end on the new latch the mechanical release would push back just enough to trigger the microswitch in the latch release. After much fiddling with the length on the release rod I finally hit the sweet spot.


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