Rebuilding Valve Block - Depressurizing and Torque specs? - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-09-2016, 11:37 AM
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Well, I stand corrected, According to Tony's link, HEatwave is correct, 90 degree will not change the torque...

Although I am having hard time conceptualize it in my head, and accept it doesn't change the torque... I'll keep thinking about it for the rest of the day...

Garage:

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Mercedes-Benz, R230 SL Class SL55 (///AMG)

Mercedes-Benz, X166 GL CLass GL63 (///AMG)

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Former Mercs:
W164 GL class GL450 (sold) - R129 SL Class SL500 (passed on) - W163 M Class ML430 Designo (passed on) - W140 S Class 500SEL(sold) - W140 S Class S320(sold) - W140 S Class S500(sold) - W140 S Class 500SEL(sold) - W201 190E 2.3(sold)
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-10-2016, 08:29 AM
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I might be missing the obvious, so correct me if I am wrong, but the distance between the nut center, and the crowsfoot pivot point is changing the lever's arm length, regardless what angle you hook the torque wrench to it... no?
essentially correct. the distance between the nut center and the crowsfoot pivot point changes the actual torque applied and needs to be adjusted for. The angle can change it also. If 90 degrees then the turning moment is not changed at all and no adjustment is necessary. If you need to have an angle that is less than 90 degrees then a more complicated correction factor has to be applied. The best result is try and get a 90 degree angle. The distance (extension length) does not change the turning moment.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-10-2016, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by bayhas View Post
Well, I stand corrected, According to Tony's link, HEatwave is correct, 90 degree will not change the torque...

Although I am having hard time conceptualize it in my head, and accept it doesn't change the torque... I'll keep thinking about it for the rest of the day...
Bayhas, think about it this way. If you had a nut or bolt that was really tight and you needed some help to break it loose. Would you put a long extension at a 90 degree angle to help or would you increase the length of your lever or handle to help? Hopefully that puts it in perspective.
The basic formula for this is L x A=M
Length (straight line distance between nut center and the end of your wrench) x the Arm (or force)= Moment (force being applied) The longer the length the more moment you will get. If you add extensions in there that don't affect the straight line distance (i.e. a 90 degree angle) you do not change the formula and no added moment will be realized.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-15-2016, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Did the valve block job this past weekend. Decided to buy a used valve block from a low mileage car on eBay rather than having mine rebuilt or rebuilding myself. I found a guy on eBay that rebuilds for $125 but I don't have a place to park the car on jackstands while the rebuild was going on (apartment parking probably not the best place to leave a car on jackstands for a few days).

Found the bleed screw right away, it was behind the rotor close to the strut. I let that bleed for a few minutes, lots of dark hydraulic fluid came out which was surprising since I had done an ABC flush two weeks prior. I then started undoing the hydraulic lines, more dark fluid starting coming out, that went on for 10-15 mins. It was really hard to get some of the hydraulic lines loose because the rubber mounts of the valve block flexed so much and the torque was lost. They eventually did come off using the 17 mm flare nut crowfoot wrench attachment for a ratchet.

I cut fingers off some rubber gloves and slipped them over the hydraulic lines so no dirt could get into the lines.

Removing the accumulator before attempting to remove the valve block made it a lot easier to get access to the electrical connectors on the larger solenoids on the back of the valve block.

While installing valve block, I first connected and tightened the hydraulic lines that were further back so I could get my torque wrench in there without other lines restricting access. Tightened to 45 NM or 33 ft lbs. Connected the electrical connectors. Then lowered the car, it was totally slammed as expected, barely high enough to get my jack out from under it. Filled CHF11S to replenish the lost fluid that came out when removing hydraulic lines. Started the car for a few minutes, then turned it off and waited 15 mins. Checked hydraulic level again and topped off some more. Then started the car again and pressed ride height button, it immediately sprung up to the appropriate ride height. Cycled the ride height button a few times, went for a test drive and monitored sagging. No sagging so far but I want to let the car sit for 2-3 days and see if it sags.

I decided not to do another ABC fluid flush since i had done it a few weeks prior. The flush is what lead to the sagging in the first place so I don't want another flush to lead to more problems. I may replace the filter after a week or two of driving. I'd like to hear peoples opinions on whether I should flush again or not.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-15-2016, 03:57 PM
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No need to flush again, the goal of flush is to replace oxidized dirty fluid. You've already done that.

Hopefully the new block you bought is second generation valve?

Garage:

Mercedes-Benz, W140 S Class S320 (AKA 300SE)

Mercedes-Benz, R230 SL Class SL55 (///AMG)

Mercedes-Benz, X166 GL CLass GL63 (///AMG)

Ducati 999 with Termignoni and CF

Former Mercs:
W164 GL class GL450 (sold) - R129 SL Class SL500 (passed on) - W163 M Class ML430 Designo (passed on) - W140 S Class 500SEL(sold) - W140 S Class S320(sold) - W140 S Class S500(sold) - W140 S Class 500SEL(sold) - W201 190E 2.3(sold)
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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No I bought the old style valve block. It was from a 2005 SL600 with less than 25k miles. I got it for under $400 whereas the second gen valve blocks were in the $700+ range.

I'm hoping that with some good luck and flushing ABC often, this valve block will live a long life. But we shall see.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leafdude555 View Post
No I bought the old style valve block. It was from a 2005 SL600 with less than 25k miles. I got it for under $400 whereas the second gen valve blocks were in the $700+ range.

I'm hoping that with some good luck and flushing ABC often, this valve block will live a long life. But we shall see.
The problem with first gen is wear and dryness of the seals, so often age is a factor more than mileage. I would certainly keep the old one and rebuild it if I were you.

You're right, the second gen are significantly more expensive, but they last longer.

You should be good for a while...

Garage:

Mercedes-Benz, W140 S Class S320 (AKA 300SE)

Mercedes-Benz, R230 SL Class SL55 (///AMG)

Mercedes-Benz, X166 GL CLass GL63 (///AMG)

Ducati 999 with Termignoni and CF

Former Mercs:
W164 GL class GL450 (sold) - R129 SL Class SL500 (passed on) - W163 M Class ML430 Designo (passed on) - W140 S Class 500SEL(sold) - W140 S Class S320(sold) - W140 S Class S500(sold) - W140 S Class 500SEL(sold) - W201 190E 2.3(sold)
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 04:42 PM
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A lot of things change in three years since the last post here by bayhas. I have ordered two valve block rebuild kits from https://x8r.co.uk/products/mercedes/...ion-repair-kit in the UK. They will be here this week and I'll post the results. I have the o-rings from another post by jnash but the first gen block is old enough that one of the brittle plastic valve body retaining clips broke. This kit comes with new clips.
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