A SL500 rejuvination - Page 8 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #71 of 83 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 10:43 AM
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Any idea how different the 5 speed is (722.6)? Video is for the 7 speed (722.9).

'11 E350 Bluetec P2 Sport 55K Mi.
'03 SL55 AMG Pano 95K Mi.
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post #72 of 83 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mercy-me View Post
Sam,

Have you seen this YouTube video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNpZDkIzX-U

May be a starting point for further investigation?

Bob
Bob
I have seen many videos like that one, beautiful engineering and tranny looks like a cool mechanical clock but perhaps more complex.

I noticed how they test the play of tranny centre axis at the end of complete overhaul with special tool.

My issue is actually removing tranny from car, how to separate it from engine and what screws to remove, is tranny going to be simply dragged to the rear to be free... etc

There was a thread about removing another type of Mercedes transmission on a mbworld but photos were linked and host deleted them.

That is really something missing in all forums, would be nice to have.


Where I am right now allows me easy access to transmission, exhaust is out, car is raised.



@kbob999
the 722.6 as far as I know is more simple, valve body control unit doesn't need special coding, and it has bearings on pump instead of the bushing which was a mistake in early 722.9, they replaced it with a bearing later on.
the pump problem on 722.9 from my researching can cause breaking of pump gear and/or damage to bell housing, worse it can cause damage to planetary gears, in that case bell will need replacing/machining/ lining with aluminum plate to cover scratches (I am skeptical of that improvisation)

I have been spending the recent weeks watching videos and this would be a fun job, I just don't want to mess it up. Maybe I can get to the rear main seal and preventivly replace the seal on it as well.
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post #73 of 83 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 01:43 PM
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I have been spending the recent weeks watching videos and this would be a fun job, I just don't want to mess it up. Maybe I can get to the rear main seal and preventative replace the seal on it as well.
How about the the WIS instructions for trans R&I? You can add another page to our encyclopedia if you do decide to tackle the trans.

My last job was working at an International (Navastar)new truck dealership as the warranty administrator. When ever the transmission had to come out for any reason, the rear main seal was replaced automatically as a precautionary measure. The bulk of the labor to replace the seal was tied up in the R&I of the trans. If memory serves, we were only allowed .3 hrs of labor to R&I the seal itself.

I kind of figured that you had already done your homework on youtube but posted for those following along.

Bob
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post #74 of 83 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mercy-me View Post
How about the the WIS instructions for trans R&I? You can add another page to our encyclopedia if you do decide to tackle the trans.

My last job was working at an International (Navastar)new truck dealership as the warranty administrator. When ever the transmission had to come out for any reason, the rear main seal was replaced automatically as a precautionary measure. The bulk of the labor to replace the seal was tied up in the R&I of the trans. If memory serves, we were only allowed .3 hrs of labor to R&I the seal itself.

I kind of figured that you had already done your homework on youtube but posted for those following along.

Bob
Do you have anything in WIS that can be shared in here regarding the tranny pulling?

Thanks
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post #75 of 83 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 05:28 PM
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Do you have anything in WIS that can be shared in here regarding the tranny pulling?

Thanks
Attached are what I find in the WIS. Seems straight forward enough, (easy for me to say). You will need a trans support jack of some sort and just general tools to do the rest. You may want to peruse some of the other forums,(all models) here as well as MBWorld to see how others have done it. Not sure if the whole job can be entirely done from below or if you would need to go up top to access the upper bell housing bolts?

Anyway, good luck as always,

Bob
Attached Files
File Type: pdf install transmission with torque converter.pdf (167.1 KB, 224 views)
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post #76 of 83 (permalink) Old 05-02-2015, 07:02 AM
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I don't have a torque wrench, but I can get one, I depend on the feel that a nut almost cannot be more tight when I tighten it.
Sam,

This might be a good time to invest in a couple of torque wrenches. As you probably have noticed, the torque specs on the fasteners of the many suspension links are tightened in stages.
Example:



There's a pretty good description here dealing with head bolts but the concept is the same. You can purchase a gauge to mount to your torque wrench or if you trust your eyes, simply put a mark on the fastener and rotate according to the additional degree requirement. That is what I do because many of the fasteners that you must tighten to a stage 2 degree are usually in a tight space.

Pretty good read here.

Anyway, just thought I would add another 2

Sorry if I'm getting tedious,

Bob

( Tightening in stages is typical throughout the WIS)
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Last edited by mercy-me; 05-02-2015 at 09:27 AM. Reason: clarity
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post #77 of 83 (permalink) Old 06-04-2015, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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I don't think I can do the tranny pump replacement, don't have a proper jack to do this especially that the car is only raised on 4 stands. I took the pan off though and replaced filter and gasket. Will fill it with fluid soon hopefully, I will just pump fluid through the drain plug and then let is drain from overflow plastic tube at specified temperature. No debris in pan, just a tiny piece of metal <0.5mm, magnet were muddy but no metal shrapnels.

Project is nearing end, all ABC lines and struts, pump... etc are mounted. In photos the longest ABC line that runs between pump and pulsation damper, this line cane actually be easily passed from pump to pulsation damper with some maneuvering. Red ring on hose is with no brace and will sit against metal in engine compartment and protect hose from damage. I am hoping to take the car to an Indy shop for alignment by early next week, I have yet to place back all heat shields and the exhaust.

I just wanted to share a fix I did on the start bottom on shifter. I noticed in the past that I had to press start button harder to get the car started. In the process of replacing the shifter plastic part with aluminum I wanted to check the knob and see what's wrong.

Turns out a soldering joint is broken on knob, I re-soldered it and put it back together.

As I mentioned before, my high beam wasn't working while flasher was, and also the windshield washer wasn't working, I suspected it to be a broken combo switch, and I replaced it, pretty simple, first you unscrew the two bolts on inner side of steering wheel, then air bag and front panel comes off, removed rest of electrical components, this leaves a screw in the middle holding steering wheel, note the mark in black on shaft holding screw, if it is not there just create one so steering wheel can be placed back correctly.
After removal of steering wheel, there is 3 screws that will need to be loosened through holes in a plastic plate, that along with a side screw holding combo switch, then simply replace combo switch.


My rear bottom engine cover is cracked in several places, I would like to add aluminum reinforcement padding in areas of weakness.

I hope to get it all wrapped up in the coming days so I can get the alignment done next week.
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post #78 of 83 (permalink) Old 06-04-2015, 05:19 PM
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Sam,

Terrific writeup as usual. Great find on the key less Go switch contact. I wonder how many others have your same problem??

Thanks for the writeup on the combination switch replacement as well. Great stuff!!

Have you fired it up yet to check out your ABC system rebuild? At the end of the project, do you plan to summarize with a parts list with costs etc?

Finally, 76 replies and 11,078 views as of right now! you have created quite a stir here on the old R230 forum!!

Congratulations,

Bob
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post #79 of 83 (permalink) Old 06-05-2015, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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@Bob

I haven't started engine yet, I would like to make sure all is tightened before I put the tires on (without shields) so I can see if there is any leaks.

As for the breakdown, I don't have an exact figure, I tried to buy as cheap as possible and I am pretty sure this %60 preventive work cost me >10k.

I hope this thread comes as an encouragement, when I bought the car and it started leaking I was only planning to change the ABC pump. I got gradually more courageous as I dug in and of course with help of the knowledgeable guys here.

It can be done with 4 stands in a single car garage and only one person
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post #80 of 83 (permalink) Old 06-05-2015, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by -COBRA- View Post
It can be done with 4 stands in a single car garage and only one person
But, it all depends on the skills and persistence of that one person. Many thanks for sharing and educating us.
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