DIY Oil Change for SLK350 with Pictures - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Post DIY Oil Change for SLK350 with Pictures

There was a DIY posted her a while ago, but I figured since I did one for the CLS last weekend, I need to do one for the wife's car since it was saying Service E Due in 2200 miles.

Tools Required : 8mm & 13mm sockets + wrench. Mercedes Oil Filter removal tool (19$ ebay)


Step1: Drive the Car around to warm up the oil , then drive up the Rhino Ramps, (or jack the car up, whatever is your preference)


Step2: Pop the hood and remove the Oil-Fillup Cap and the Oil Filter. This is optional , but I feel like I'm relieving the pressure a bit before draining her out.


Step3: Get under the car armed with our 8mm socket wrench, and remove 6 or so bolts holding the 1st plastic piece in place. Then remove the 2nd plastic piece (there are two bolts very hard to find, close to the wheel wells). You will now see the Oil Drain Pan and the Oil Drain Plug.




Step4: Position your Oil Drain container and using the 13mm socket wrench, remove the Oil Drain Plug and let the oil pour out. Go have a snack / watch some TV and let her drip for an hour or so.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Step5:Remove the Oil Filter using the "special mercedes tool" and a 1/2 drive wrench. remove the old filter, clean the encasing and remove the rubber o-rings. Slide in the new filter, and put on the new O-rings provided. (3 in all)





Step6: Get back under the car, Put the Drain Plug bolt back on (don't forget the washer) and wipe the area clean (to check for leaks later)

Step7: Pour in about 5qts of new fully synthetic Mercedes-approved Oil. I used Pennzoil 5w-30, since I live in super-sunny yet not that hot California. You can use whatever you prefer, the last time some people had issues with not using mobil1 or not using 0w-40 etc. If you live on the east coast or where its really cold, you may want to use 0w-40. My car, my choice, same with yours.


Step8: Get back under the car and check for leaks. If everything looks good, put the two plastic pieces back on and drive off the Rhino Ramps. This is very important since you want the car totally level before pouring in more oil to avoid incorrect max readings.

Step9: Pour more oil and keep checking the oil dipstick to make sure you don't go over the max level indicator. I was able to get almost 8.5 qts in... about 8.3 or so I would guess.

Step10: Follow the Service reminder reset procedure and woohoo...you're done!

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 01:04 PM
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Excellent "how to." I know what you mean about finding all of those bolts that hold down the plastic protectors. There are always one or two that are hard to find or get to. In the "old days," they didn't have those plastic pieces, so a do-it-yourself oil change was a lot quicker. Thanks for sharing!
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 02:42 PM
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excellent! but please post the fss reset procedure for those that cannot/will not do a 'search'. thanks
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 05:01 PM
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Thanks for the information. I use to change my oil and filter myself but I gave up doing it 10 years ago. At age 59 I'm not flexible enough to get under a car anymore. I still enjoy reading about other people's experiences.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 07:49 PM
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Thank you for the detalied pictures.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 11:06 AM
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Thanks for that, appreciate the effort you made posting that comprehensive guide.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-27-2007, 12:26 AM
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I think I might be able to do this one after seeing the pictures.

The last DIY oil change was on my first and last diesel car. Everything the oil touched turn black and wouldn't come off so I stopped changing oil. Did nearly everything else but change oil.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-20-2008, 08:42 AM
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forgot thanks to "slk350 and 350z" member. Have a great day.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-26-2008, 11:24 PM
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Hi,

It looks to me like the oil filter is a replaceable cartridge type like my 1969 MGB. You remove
the outer housing and replace the filter material inside. Not the full replacement spin on's
that we've grown use to. Am I seeing the picture right?

Also, the picture of the filter location looks like the bottom points down. Is there a
problem with oil leaking all over the engine when you remove it? I hate that!

Thanks,

Mike
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