Seat Removal Nightmare!! - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Seat Removal Nightmare!!

I have to remove the seat to make a repair and some moron that has worked on the car before I purchased it stripped the threads that hold this bolt in and all it does is spins and spins and I cannot get it to come out.



This is the last bolt also......eff my luck!!

I've tried wedging some behind it to help outwards force but it just won't come out.

Not sure what I'm going to do as the seat has to come out.

Thinking of using my dremel to grind off the head of the bolt but I bet it's harded steel and then theres the issue of getting the carpet hot around it.

FFS I'm really frustrated!!!!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by DJMikeT View Post
...Thinking of using my dremel to grind off the head of the bolt but I bet it's harded steel and then theres the issue of getting the carpet hot around it...
I haven't encountered a bolt that my dremel can't cut. I even used dremel to cut suspension coil springs which I think are hardened steel. As for the heat and sparks, place a wet rug over the carpet to cover the surrounding grinding area.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I managed to get that bolt off with my dremel but now there is one more holding the side rail on the door side and there's absolutely no way to get to it.

I don't understand how the hell you can remove it, I can barely see it and there's a huge aluminum housing in the way.

I've taken a lot of seats out in my time but have never encountered anything like this Mercedes.

I'm at a loss of what to do, I've searched everywhere and cannot find any information on how to completely remove the seat from the car.

Grrrrrr
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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How the heck are you suppose to get to this torx bolt to remove it?



I can't even get a torx driver or socket onto it because of the angle and how it is underneath the aluminum seat housing and right against the side rail.

This is the only thing holding the seat on now. I don't even understand how this could be assemble unless you have to entirely disassemble the entire seating structure to get to it.

Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated it.

This was supposed to be a 30 minute fix and has now ruined my whole day.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Well I finally got it out, it was the initial bolt that would not come out that caused all my headaches.

In order to get that bolt out I had to wedge up the bracket a little which was just enough to not let the seat move forward and up.

Once I figured that out I got some channel locks and bent the bracket back as far to its original shape as possible and this allowed me to move the seat forward and all the up to get enough clearance to reach the side rail bolt.

Boy this was an all day event and I just ended with the seat removal, the repair will get done tomorrow hopefully.
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Last edited by DJMikeT; 11-09-2014 at 06:33 PM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 06:26 PM
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I'm having an ice cold one right now,suggest you do the same, hate some of those bolts. good job man!


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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I'm having an ice cold one right now,suggest you do the same, hate some of those bolts. good job man!
Ya I finally called it a day yesterday after many curse words and a ton of frustration.

Here's the culprit to all my problems, the U Nut clip failed to hold the nut in place so as I tried to remove the bolt the nut inside the clip just spun and spun around.



I had to grind the head off the bolt which was a major PITA!!!



I don't think I'm going to put another U Nut clip back in but instead put some epoxy on a flange nut and get it lined up centered in the hole. There's enough room to get my finger inside the metal hole where the seat bracket mounts to the center console area.

Once the 5 minute epoxy is set then I'll reinforce it with some steel epoxy putty and it sould be solid forever once that stuff sets up.

I've come to find out since buying and working on this Mercedes that there are many cheap design flaws with the car. You would think on a $100k new vehicle such as the SL500 that everything would be top notch but that's not the case it appears. I'm sure it goes with every other car producer as well.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 12:25 PM
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not sure what grade bolts MB used on the seats, but they function NOT, repeat NOT like regular seats in a car. Notice that the seat belt is attached to the seat frame, NOT the floor frame!! MB did that on purpose to not have a kludgy seat restraint system. BUT that means the seat MUST take ALL the forces of the seat belt in a collision, unlike most cars where it doesn't take much at all. That is one reason why the seat frame and attachment is so stout. Notice that the seat frame and part of the attachment are magnesium and other metal castings/forgings rather than stamped sheet metal. And one reasy why the seats are pretty heavy. And probably why they made it so easy (2 bolts) to remove any of the seat cushions for access to the seat mechanism or frame for repairs. Made it unlikely to need to remove the seat frame.

Personally I'd make sure I used original quality replacement bolts.


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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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not sure what grade bolts MB used on the seats, but they function NOT, repeat NOT like regular seats in a car. Notice that the seat belt is attached to the seat frame, NOT the floor frame!! MB did that on purpose to not have a kludgy seat restraint system. BUT that means the seat MUST take ALL the forces of the seat belt in a collision, unlike most cars where it doesn't take much at all. That is one reason why the seat frame and attachment is so stout. Notice that the seat frame and part of the attachment are magnesium and other metal castings/forgings rather than stamped sheet metal. And one reasy why the seats are pretty heavy. And probably why they made it so easy (2 bolts) to remove any of the seat cushions for access to the seat mechanism or frame for repairs. Made it unlikely to need to remove the seat frame.

Personally I'd make sure I used original quality replacement bolts.
I understand how the seats work and how they are attached to the car, the problem is with the front bolt where it attaches to the center console bottom.

Mercedes decided to use a cheap ass U Nut clip fastener instead of having a nut welded to the chassis and that's why I have so much trouble trying to remove the seat because I couldn't get the bolt out do to the clip failing that holds the backing nut. Therefore upon trying to remove the nut just slipped inside the clip and I couldn't remove it.

I'm ordering another bolt from the dealer but I'm not putting that cheapass clip fastener back in.

Instead I'm going to use a nut rivet or nutsert as sometimes called which Mercedes should have done in the first place. It will much stronger than the clip.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 10:19 PM
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I found this 5-year old post looking for hints to solve my own current problem. I have a 97 SL500 that is now in limp home mode and need to remove the left seat to resolve a wiring problem that may be preventing me from getting a useful STAR diagnosis. I need to pull the driver side carpet up to check the integrity of one or more wires that I stupidly damaged by drilling a 1/4-inch hole through the carpet in an effort to anchor my floor mat to keep it from sliding forward and jamming under the accelerator.

I have read that for some SL500s in this vintage you need to remove two or three torx bolts on each side rail and then simply lift the seat out of the car. My inboard rail is now completely free, but there is an outboard bolt that I cannot access, although I have hand cranked the seat fore and aft as far as it can go and cannot find any point at which this bolt is accessible by any torx tool that I am aware of (that amounts to about 1800 70-degree cranks of the motor shaft for each fore-aft excursion. The endeavor takes more than an hour.). The pic in Post #4 of this thread illustrates my predicament very well. Any assistance would be much appreciated.
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