My 96 SL320 has the stock Bose sound system and the two bigger speakers in both doors are in-operative....mostly. From the wiring diagram it appears they are wired in parallel with the smaller ones which would indicate that it is not a problem with the amplifier. I've noticed that when playing a CD with a lot of bass, the 2 said speakers cut in and out, so they do in fact work to some degree. What's going on? Do they need to be replaced, or is it wiring? Pulling the door panels is not one of my favorite tasks because I know that half of the plastic clips will break in the process, so I want to do this only once!
Probably got wet. That's what happened to mine. Make sure you drill a drain hole in each housing when you replace them. Inner Door Panel Clips are needed to mount the door panel to door body from Autohausaz .com. p/n 0119887678 - 0.79 cents each
Hi plink49 in case you need to replace the speakers you can call Bose (you will find the number in the forum) and they will send you a replacement for 40+ bucks a piece. You only need to tell them the p/n of the speaker and not tell them that they are for your Mercedes or they will send you to the dealer and prices will change...
"In answer to your question, we can provide replacement speaker(s) 171800 for your Bose Music System and the cost is $40.00 plus tax and shipping. Please contact our Consumer Support Line at 508-766-9522 with part number off the component you need to order over the phone with a credit card.
Hours of Operation: Monday – Friday 8:00 AM to 3:30 PM EST
Acceptable Payment Cards : Visa, MC, Discover, American Express (PLEASE DO NOT SEND THIS INFORMATION THROUGH EMAIL THIS IS NOT A SECURE ENVIRONMENT)Thank you for contacting Bose Corporation.
Patty Bolack
Consumer Relations Division"
The number for Bose is 1-800-2312673 and ask for Patty
Boy, is the above advice right as rain! I "had" your same problem for about a year and fumbled around looking for used speakers on Ebay, places to get my amp rebuilt (I have 1994 sl600- probably same amp and speaker as yours). What an enormous waste of time. The forum had the Bose info (listed above) on replacement parts. I bought a new amp (about $240 and the 2 front door speakers-$40 each) and got them on Friday. I put the amp and speakers in this morning and everything was perfect, instantly! Thus, pull your door panel, order the new push pins immediately, and order the amp and speakers noted above. If, after review of the speakers they don't appear damaged, maybe you just want to start with the amp. Almost certainly that is the problem. They have a high failure rate I am told, but also, one of my speakers had gotten wet and was distorted. Believe me, I would have gladly paid $300 a year ago to fix this problem! Don't even think about buying all of this from the dealer. You can't buy the speaker alone-have to buy the whole "assembly" for $500 plus dollars and the amp is $1,000. plus. Patty at Bose knows what you need and as long as the car is more than 10 years old they can sell the parts since they are no longer under contract to Mercedes. Thanks to everyone on the forum for posting the info that me solve my sound system problem, easily.
I just now ordered replacement speakers from Bose and it is a short and painless process. The only suggestion I have for anyone wanting to do the same is to not use the 800-231-2673 number but call directly to 508-766-9522. The 800# is automated and you never get a real person. When I called the other number I got Patty Bolack directly. And I also discovered that on my '96 (and I assume all years after) it is possible to access and remove the large speaker in the doors without removing the door panel itself. Unscrew the lower fabric panel (one screw underneath) and slide the panel forward. Then just disconnect the courtesy light. The upper rear speaker mounting screw is a little bit difficult to get out, but definitely possible. Also, on other threads it was said that these speakers are 2-ohm....they are not, they are 1-ohm. The current part number (133619) replaces the one on the sticker (171800).
Received the replacement speakers from Bose today and installed them in about 20 minutes. What an amazing difference....how can anyone say this is an inferior sound system?
The auto sound professionals call Bose, "the one note bass."
Audiophiles think Bose is awful. It's OK with me because car/road noise makes really good audio an impossibility.
Very interesting and inforrmative thread.
Did I understand correctly that the part number 171800 had been replaced with 133619?
As I understand those part numbers are for the big speakers in the doors.
Does anyone have the BOSE part numbers for the small ones in the doors?
valuable info, thank u. These blow speakers are driving me nuts.
Just left a message on Patty's answer machine, hopefully they will deliver to Ireland
At a MB dealer cost of 220 euro per speaker, ye have saved me a fortune
thank you.
I am still trying to get the Bose part number for the small speakers in the upper part of the doors - anyone have that part number so I can order replacements? '97 SL500...
Does anyone know how the door speakers (above) are attached to the plastic cage?
I won't be using a 1-2 ohm system anymore so I'd like to replace the Bose speakers with speakers of today and the cage looks like the best way to get them to stay in the door.
For what it's worth, I used a door speaker from a '91 in my '95 SL600. The speaker housings were completely different so I reused the one for my car. I needed to trim around the edges a bit and drill three of the four mounting holes, but the speaker did end up fitting in my frame. The speaker mounting hole locations were different from '91 to the '95 but the depth was fine.
Speakers are now $60 a piece. The part number is back to the original number as they used a similar speaker model (133619) in the past few years. Patty is still the contact at 508-766-9522
Yeah thanks just trying to get some homework done before I park her in the garage and start ripping out 1994 sound and replace it with 2000 n' teen sound.
And that'll require me to replace all of the existing wires/speakers/subs/amp /head unit. Car will look mostly stock other than the head unit.
In Feb 2010, on post #8 on this thread, plink49 clarified that it is not necessary to remove the door panel to replace the main door speaker. So, when replacing only the main speaker, should one assume that it is not necessary to order extra push pins, as advised in an earlier entry?
Also, if you are going to replace both the tweeter and the main speaker, is it then required to remove the door panel?
Finally, if the door speakers sound raggedy, as if a cone has been damaged, is it usually the case that the tweeter goes out along with the main door speaker? Or, are they pretty independent?
I replaced the door speakers in my '96 (with the newer panels) by replacing the entire panel. A couple months later I tried to replace only the large, lower speaker on my aunt's '97. Even knowing exactly where everything went, after 10 minutes I still couldn't access one of the mounts. Pulling the entire panel is the faster, easier way.
So for your '97, I'd order those extra push pins. Yes, you need to remove the entire panel to access the entire door speaker mount. The smaller speakers are viable in the 2 cars where I had to replace the larger, lower speakers. So I'd say they're independent as for wear.
Hi Tim
Did you replace your small speakers also? If so, were they part number 133619 as listed earlier in this thread? Did you replace the amp? My SL600 is a 97 as well so hoping to piggyback on your experience.
Thanks
Terry
One thing that happens with these when they get wet is the cone deforms some and causes voice coil rub. That was the condition I found them in when I purchased by SL500 two years ago. I purchased the proper foam surrounds from eBay and re-foamed them both, while re-centering the coil. I also painted two or three coats of mod podge onto the outer surface of the cone (I suspect the water comes down the front of the driver and accumulates on the foam edge lip where it meets the cone). This I did to provide some protection from future water intrusion, though the car is now kept in the garage, so it should never wet again. One of the repairs--the more badly deformed cone--did not take and the distinctive crackle of voice coil rub returned rather quickly. I tossed that one and bought another used one which I also coated and the two have been in the vehicle for two years now and have worked fine since.
... I purchased the proper foam surrounds from eBay and re-foamed them both, while re-centering the coil. I also painted two or three coats of mod podge onto the outer surface of the cone (I suspect the water comes down the front of the driver and accumulates on the foam edge lip where it meets the cone). This I did to provide some protection from future water intrusion, though the car is now kept in the garage, so it should never wet again...
The surround is a standard 6" cloth surround with an angled lip, you can confirm that it will fit measuring the cone diameter and comparing to the "inside roll diameter." I got mine from speakerguy2002 on eBay, link below. The mod podge is what I had on hand, there are probably better ways to moisture protect the cone.
There is an exterior grade mod podge which is reported to work well and be water resistant, but not waterproof. You can also use "outdoor acrylic sealer," folk art makes a product for outdoor crafting.
There is an exterior grade mod podge which is reported to work well and be water resistant, but not waterproof. You can also use "outdoor acrylic sealer," folk art makes a product for outdoor crafting.
Just spoke to Patty and ordered my speakers.
2 X part 171800 @ $60 each (larger door speaker)
2 X part 133620 @ $40 each (door tweeter)
508-766-9522 to reach Patty
i have a 94 model with a missing right door speaker...as i have 20 years of speakers on the shelf i will be replacing very soon...the biggest failure i have seen is the improper ohm impedence as the biggest diy failure....will post pictures to help with a 94 model...thanks folks !
Replaced the large Bose speakers in both doors today. As described on the forums I removed the speaker covers by removing the single screw at the rear underside of cover and sliding forward. Then unplug the light and remove the cover.
One of the 4 screws attaching the speakers to the door is slightly under the door panel at the upper edge of the speaker opening, but it is accessible. The photo below shows the hidden screw on the passenger side door speaker. On my 97 the screws are Torx 20.
The speakers had a weak adhesive holding them as well, it was easy to pry them off with a flat head screw driver. Then remove the two wires and speakers are out.
Reinstallation is the reverse and the two speaker leads are different sizes so no chance to mix them up.
While the speaker covers were off I took the opportunity to clean them. I removed the lights and sprayed the fabric with Resolve. After sitting a few minutes I rinsed them with warm water under the kitchen faucet. I had a bit of a scare when I noticed the fabric had bubbles as if it had stretched but once it was dry it returned to the original shape. When the covers dried I sprayed them with Scotchguard and reinstalled the covers.
Pretty easy job.
I also bought the tweeters for the doors but the stereo sounds so good I will put those away in case I need them in the future.
The tweeters would require the entire door panel to be removed.
I just bought and installed 2 X 171800's in my 97 last week.
They are $60 each now.
I could buy two more and ship them to you? Too bad this did not come up a little sooner. I am flying to London next Tuesday but I don't think they would get to me in time.
Last shipment was left on my porch so I would not want to order until I was back later in April.
Terry
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